New tool day

[Guest Gimlet]

Bought one of these last week (from The Woodsmith Store - service superb as always) and tried it out today on the first hedge of the season.

 

Gränsfors Broad Axe, model 1900 | Gränsfors Bruk Sweden

WWW.GRANSFORSBRUK.COM

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The Gränsfors Broad Axe model 1900 has a traditional design and is suitable for squaring logs and planks, for example...

 

It's a side axe grind with a R/H bevel and a R/H off-set.

 

I've been wanting a new hook from John Beavis but I've been trying to contact him for months and I just can't get hold of him for some reason.

I've already got a JB 3 1/2 lb bearded hedging axe with a double grind. I wanted a Yorkshire or maybe an 11"Westmoorland, as my Brades double blade is a bit too light, but as I can't get hold of John I went for this.

It doesn't feel anything like as refined as one of John's axes and the finish isn't anyway near the same league, and I'd have preferred a Kent pattern, but credit where it's due, it's a damn good hedging tool. Makes effortlessly short work of big stems. Took a bit of getting used to. It's a big old beast and a bit brutal if you're unwary but brilliant for taking the meat out of a really big pleach cut with the minimum of blows and works very well for fine cutting and paring down when held behind the beard with a thumb over the poll. Keeps an edge well too. 

 

I might have the head polished. I'm not keen on the raw forge look. But otherwise It's a very good tool. Recommended.   

[Will C]

We use the gränsfors forest axe for laying, I find it keeps a good edge. Good tools.

If it’s to big for that out comes the saw it’s far easier than a big axe. 

[Stere]

Theese axes look similar

 

Fleischerwerkzeuge Archive - Müller Hammerwerk

MUELLER-HAMMERWERK.AT

 

kanenori make a big range of fancy billhooks

 

Hatchets | Kanenori

KANENORI-JAPAN.COM

 

[Rough Hewn]

Bought one of these last week (from The Woodsmith Store - service superb as always) and tried it out today on the first hedge of the season.
 

Gränsfors Broad Axe, model 1900 | Gränsfors Bruk Sweden

WWW.GRANSFORSBRUK.COM

---

The Gränsfors Broad Axe model 1900 has a traditional design and is suitable for squaring logs and planks, for example...  
It's a side axe grind with a R/H bevel and a R/H off-set.
 
I've been wanting a new hook from John Beavis but I've been trying to contact him for months and I just can't get hold of him for some reason.
I've already got a JB 3 1/2 lb bearded hedging axe with a double grind. I wanted a Yorkshire or maybe an 11"Westmoorland, as my Brades double blade is a bit too light, but as I can't get hold of John I went for this.
It doesn't feel anything like as refined as one of John's axes and the finish isn't anyway near the same league, and I'd have preferred a Kent pattern, but credit where it's due, it's a damn good hedging tool. Makes effortlessly short work of big stems. Took a bit of getting used to. It's a big old beast and a bit brutal if you're unwary but brilliant for taking the meat out of a really big pleach cut with the minimum of blows and works very well for fine cutting and paring down when held behind the beard with a thumb over the poll. Keeps an edge well too. 
 
I might have the head polished. I'm not keen on the raw forge look. But otherwise It's a very good tool. Recommended.   

That’s a hewing axe for finishing log sides.
Nice bit of kit.
[emoji106]

[Stere]

Better be good for £250 ?

[Khriss]

7 minutes ago, Stere said:

Better be good for £250 ?

.... Buy yrself a nice little chainsaw fr that  ? however i take my hat off to the Hedgelayers any day. K

[Guest Gimlet]

I don't like using saws except for taking the initial big bite out of a pleach cut on very big stems, and then I'll switch to a hook or axe to form the tongue. You can't beat a sharp blade when it comes to creating a clean curving hinge with no back-slitting, especially on the more brittle species.

 

The walnut stem on my avatar was 6" wide and I took the shape of the cut out with a saw but used the axe for the last inch till I could feel the stem let go and the tongue start to bend. I like to see no fibres on my tongue cuts. I want them polished if possible like they've been planed. Apart from the fact they are far less likely to crack or split when they're cleanly cut, I'm convinced the tree heals quicker and regrowth is more vigorous. You can only do that with a blade.

 

The trouble with a double bevel axe is I find when trying to take off a small slice to get the tongue to the point of bending, the bevel can cause the blade to deflect away from the cut. More so with very, hard species like old hawthorne or beech. (Walnut is easy. It's like cutting soap).

That doesn't happen with a side axe. It's like paring off with a chisel. Effectively making pleach cuts for hedge laying is hewing, it's just that the wood being hewed is alive.

Edited October 10, 2020 by Gimlet