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log burners in wooden buildings


Charlieh
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Hi,

 

has anyone fitted a log burner to a wooden building, im looking at get a cheapy one for my shed to keep me warm and burning bits of off cuts, saw dust and general bits of waste timber on, if so how did you go about fitting the flue through the timber?

 

the burners i have been looking at have mostly been rear flue so exiting through the side of the building, then up into a small capped pipe, but how do i best seal the flue pipe? i assume i need a metal heat sheild, i have access to a 6ft legth of twin wall stainless flue pipe so would i be best using this and going straight up, and just putting a cap on the top of it?

 

cheers for any help

 

Charlie

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if you go straight up, would you not just lose all the heat straight out of the chimley?

 

i have two in the house, a rear flued and straight up and the rear flue does throw more heat, but if straight up through the roof might be easier to install, especially if i have the twin walled pipe already,

 

the one advantage is the flue pipe if inside the shed will allow more heat from the flue to disipate into the shed keeping it warmer, but will take up more space

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how cheap do you want to go i spotted thiese on Ebay earlier while looking for a stove

$$$ multifuel stove - cheap $$$ on eBay (end time 27-Jan-10 21:34:33 GMT)

 

as you said where the twin wall flue goes through the roof or wall you will need a heat shield joining the flues you can prob get fire proof mastic in a tube

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Unfortunately it may be a bit more complicated than this. To do it properly you'd need to have a non combustible base for it to sit on, use twin wall pipe that doesn't go nearer than 60mm to any combustible surface. I'd go through the roof with a flashing kit, and make sure the distance above the roof is good enough to get a decent draw, 6 ft in total may not be quite enough.

 

Having said that if it's a shed that you are going to be in I'd be tempted to do whatever and just buy a piece of asbestos sheet to use as a register plate. Normally wood to close will not ignite just smoulder.

 

Depends on it's use really......................

 

R

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The straighter the flue the better the draw. The 135 degree needed to go from the back of the stove and out through the wall is the most expensive piece, over £200 in twin wall. Jewson do a lead and rubber seal for flues going through roofs. If its only in your shed try flexible chimeny liner for the flue, but make sure that is is the one for wood burner as the other liners rot with the lignit in wood smoke. You can probably get it off flea bay quite cheaply.

Just make sure that there is enough of a gap between the roof/ wall and the chimeny to reduce the chances of ignition.

Don't forget when all else fails hit it with a hammer !!

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Hi

You can get a heat proof rubber flashing for twin wall, and for none insulated, i have used this on my truck and in a caravan.

 

If the flue is inside the shed its best to put tin on the shed wall with an air gap.f its on the outside it will be ok.

you can get the flue out of the back with none insulated flu and then have an adaptor to link it to the insulated flue, so you can get a cheaper 90 bend.

 

Using insultaed flue will allow it to draw better as it doesnt cool down, so long as its a couple of ft above the roof it will be fine.

 

If you dont want to buy a flashing you could use tin with heat proof sealer, from screwfix..

 

For flashings try here;

Windy Smithy

Although builders merchants sometimes have them, also for cheap stoves try machine mart. I have a windy smithy stove and it is VERY good.

Hope this helps..

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hi thanks for all the info, gives me a better idea,

 

woodmad, thanks for the link, some great bits on that site, may be in touch with them about a couple of bits, the wife liked the look of the caravans!

, I have a machine mart stove in my lounge, and i have to say I'm very impressed with it, puts many expensive stoves to shame, and is certainly well made, not the cheap unit I was expecting when i ordered it

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