Husqvarna 385

[Toad]

3 hours ago, Heavy Oil Saw said:

@Toad Others may tell you different, but I’ve only used it as a get out of trouble, written the crank and block completely off, more damage was created as the bearing went back to spinning and ate everything.
I’ve bodged plenty of bearings in my time with different potions, some successful, some not, but in a bind what can you do? Go new, peace of mind when running the equipment.

That is what I figured, a crank while expensive, is still cheaper than a piston and cylinder.

[Stubby]

22 minutes ago, Toad said:

That is what I figured, a crank while expensive, is still cheaper than a piston and cylinder.

Plus new bearings and seals

[spudulike]

I would have used Loctite bearing retainer fluid and a new bearing. Spending that much on a crank for an old saw The other option would be a bit of JB weld if the bearing is really that loose on the shaft as it will fill larger cavities better. Some of these epoxies and locking fluids are amazingly strong if the surfaces are clean.

[ChrisNewport]

0.1mm is a lot on close tolerance parts like that. In a past life we used to bruise shafts with a centre punch dot at 3 6 9 and 12 o clock then press into the bearing.

[spudulike]

Where I am coming from is spending £170 on a crank for a machine which will be some 17years old at best and then adding labour (I know the OP is doing it himself) and that is likely to be £200-250+ so you now have circa £400 on a saw that has done 17 years.....!

0.1mm is a big lump of tolerance on a critical part but I am torn between doing the professional long term fix and the taking a punt on the fix would last the rest of the machines life.....always a difficult one.

[Heavy Oil Saw]

Where I am coming from is spending £170 on a crank for a machine which will be some 17years old at best and then adding labour (I know the OP is doing it himself) and that is likely to be £200-250+ so you now have circa £400 on a saw that has done 17 years.....!
0.1mm is a big lump of tolerance on a critical part but I am torn between doing the professional long term fix and the taking a punt on the fix would last the rest of the machines life.....always a difficult one.

This is for the OP to decide. I’ve repaired bearing houses with weld, metal epoxy, damaging the housing to close the tolerance, whether those are repairs or not, well, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
If@Toad is happy with repairing things or not, I don’t know, I for one have had enough of “repairing” things and just go new or good 2nd hand, unless the part was rare as hens teeth, then I’d pay a machine shop to do it.

[Toad]

If I'd known the crank was dubious then I wouldn't have started this project. Sadly I felt that with £300 sunk into it, I ought to carry on.

 

Some of the ideas here are great, next time I might try the ide of centre punching the crank and using the sealant, but I get quite anxious - not entirely logically either - about stuff working properly and hate the idea that it would go tits up quickly because I'd taken a shortcut.

 

Luckily, for the saw, not my wallet, it's just a hobby saw and the repairs don't need to make financial sense which they most definitely don't. Hopefully it'll do all I ever need of it.

[Toad]

1 hour ago, Stubby said:

Plus new bearings and seals

Luckily they are included with the crankshaft, only £180 plus vat. 

[Stubby]

3 minutes ago, Heavy Oil Saw said:

This is for the OP to decide. I’ve repaired bearing houses with weld, metal epoxy, damaging the housing to close the tolerance, whether those are repairs or not, well, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
If@Toad is happy with repairing things or not, I don’t know, I for one have had enough of “repairing” things and just go new or good 2nd hand, unless the part was rare as hens teeth, then I’d pay a machine shop to do it.

385XP crank shaft , con rod and piston on ebay right now . £75 BIN or make him an offer . He says taken from a running saw . says he has the pot as well . 3 days left .

[Toad]

8 minutes ago, Stubby said:

385XP crank shaft , con rod and piston on ebay right now . £75 BIN or make him an offer . He says taken from a running saw . says he has the pot as well . 3 days left .

Yeah I saw that, the end of the crank where the circlip is fitted is damaged, and I just don't feel that enthusiastic about it when they refer to the cylinder as the 'engine'.