Husqvarna 385

[Toad]

With a lack of anything else to do this weekend I've stripped the saw down to a point I know what parts/work should be needed and can start to clean it up and rebuild, but I have a few questions, if anyone might be able to advise? 

 

It is a late 2005 model saw and I believe the pto/clutch side bearing and seal were changed in early 2005. The seal that is in it is similar to the 346 clutch side bearing in that it is inserted into the bearing. I assume the replacement is part no. 503 26 22 01 as that is what seems to be listed for the later saws and I should be able to carefully remove the old one with a small screwdriver or a hook?

 

The flywheel side seal looks just like the 372 seals so I'm hoping to be able to drive that in with the 372 tool.

 

The fuel tank breather is loose, what is the best way to fix that in place? Use some of the threebond 1184 I use on the crankcase after carefully cleaning it?

[adw]

The only change I can remember was on the early machine the drive side seal on its own was not available as a spare part, as you say the seal is now part no. 503262201, the flywheel side is bigger than the 372 it is from the 395 no. 503260205.

[Toad]

The spare parts for the 385 I ordered are due to be delivered today so I set about cleaning the saw up and getting ready to rebuild it. Sadly I've discovered that the clutch side bearing spins on the crankshaft. I have split the crankcase and measured the crankshaft, there doesn't seem to be an appreciable difference in the diameter, less than 0.1mm between the clearly shiny section the bearing has spun on and the bit that the bearing did not run on. The bearing feels a little gritty despite flushing it out with petrol and wd40, so I suspect that it is at fault. 

 

Has anyone used loctite bearing fit or something similar in the past? Should I just stump up for a new crankshaft? I don't imagine there are many reliable aftermarket units.

[Stubby]

7 minutes ago, Toad said:

The spare parts for the 385 I ordered are due to be delivered today so I set about cleaning the saw up and getting ready to rebuild it. Sadly I've discovered that the clutch side bearing spins on the crankshaft. I have split the crankcase and measured the crankshaft, there doesn't seem to be an appreciable difference in the diameter, less than 0.1mm between the clearly shiny section the bearing has spun on and the bit that the bearing did not run on. The bearing feels a little gritty despite flushing it out with petrol and wd40, so I suspect that it is at fault. 

 

Has anyone used loctite bearing fit or something similar in the past? Should I just stump up for a new crankshaft? I don't imagine there are many reliable aftermarket units.

 If you are talking about the bearing that sits inside the clutch its supposed to spin on the crank shaft .

[Heavy Oil Saw]

The loctite will fail and it’ll go back to spinning, it’s a very temporary fix. If the material is missing, it’ll never replace it.

It’s for correct tolerance fits, and prevents corrosion to keep the tolerance correct. It does help “retain” the bearing.

[Toad]

32 minutes ago, Stubby said:

 If you are talking about the bearing that sits inside the clutch its supposed to spin on the crank shaft .

Sadly it is the one between the crankcase and crankshaft.

[Toad]

32 minutes ago, Heavy Oil Saw said:

The loctite will fail and it’ll go back to spinning, it’s a very temporary fix. If the material is missing, it’ll never replace it.

It’s for correct tolerance fits, and prevents corrosion to keep the tolerance correct. It does help “retain” the bearing.

That is what I assumed. Thank you.

[Heavy Oil Saw]

@Toad Others may tell you different, but I’ve only used it as a get out of trouble, written the crank and block completely off, more damage was created as the bearing went back to spinning and ate everything.
I’ve bodged plenty of bearings in my time with different potions, some successful, some not, but in a bind what can you do? Go new, peace of mind when running the equipment.

[Stubby]

3 hours ago, Toad said:

Sadly it is the one between the crankcase and crankshaft.

So its spinning in its housing then ? Oh I see what you mean . The center is not gripping the crank shaft .  If the shaft is not worn you might get away with a new bearing ?

Edited May 1, 2020 by Stubby

[Toad]

27 minutes ago, Stubby said:

So its spinning in its housing then ? Oh I see what you mean . The center is not gripping the crank shaft .  If the shaft is not worn you might get away with a new bearing ?

Yup, the crank would spin inside of the bearing, the bearing wouldn't rotate. I had read that this was a problem with earlier ones, I guess this is where the air leak which cooked it originated.

 

A new crank has been ordered. It has turned into a very expensive project.