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thetoolnut

660 oiler

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On 29/03/2020 at 15:51, Wonky said:

I’m not sure I’m reading your poast Wright, all still oily things work the same here’s a pic  look at the pic o gram on the metal

in real life they all work the same  9 till 12 or 3 till 6  depending on which way you look at it. My pic is clockwise increasing oil flow.  A 1/4 of a turn is min to full

 

there is a mod you can do,, if you’ve got the time (we’ve all got time at the mo) and a few tools... but it is easy to mess it up.. after all the normal pump stroke is 0.9mm and the ho is just a measly 0.3mm more at 1.2mm.

 

any how check the pic and report back if you got it back to front or I read your poast back to front,,, 

 

btw I need a better hobby than drinking, as there is bugger all to do now days ???

If you fancy trying the mod I can’t point you to the right place..?

A977AFBA-E845-4087-8B26-DA5703354B3F.jpeg

I turned my 660 on it's side, clutch cover facing up with the bar on my right. I turned the adjustment screw all the way to the right (clockwise). Going by your picture above that should be fully open. The Stihl oil pump adjustment screws seem to be counter intuitive. One would assume turning the screw hard right would be closing off the flow. I prefer the oiler adjustment on my 372, I give it three or four turns anti-clockwise and it oils a 24" Oregon powermatch with full skip chain no problem. Far be it from me to be throwing petrol on the whole Stihl v Husky debate! ??

Edited by thetoolnut

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On 29/03/2020 at 17:33, spudulike said:

On oiling, if the saw is fired up with no bar, you should get a good solid dribble of oil running down the side of the saw in a few seconds.

My usual inspection is to check the bar oiler hole....you would be surprised, just done a MS150 and it was blocked!!!

Spin the clutch off, check the oiler arm isn't loose on the plastic pinion and grips the pinion well. Check the END of the oiler arm, they often wear off especially when the drum is a bit wobbly.

If this is all OK then the oil pump comes off, check the oil pickup filter and pipe isn't blocked - the tank should be fine if you have flushed it. Check the plastic pinion thread is good - VERY unlikely it has failed on this machine model.

The pump...if you put the drive shaft in certain positions, carb cleaner/WD40 can generally be forced passed it if sprayed down the outlet hole so try that, look down the holes and you can use a compressor on it. The plug will be on the inlet side of the pump if plugged. You can use a bit of fuel line pushed against the holes and blow through them.

If the pump is clear and the spray goes through a bit easy then if the machine is high hours then it may be the pump is bad - the steel pump shaft can wear the alloy it sits in and after a time, it will stop pumping with any force so a new one will be needed.

If that doesn't work.....panic:w00t:

 

Did you ever hear of a pin on a 660 oiler that if modified can increase the flow Spud?? ?

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48 minutes ago, thetoolnut said:

A modded 390 would be nice! I'm expecting Husky to come out with a 590 and a 595 shortly.

I do have a Spud ported 390 as it goes .

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1 minute ago, Stubby said:

I do have a Spud ported 390 as it goes .

That's a nice saw I'd say, I've used a 395 in the past. A bit of a pig in my opinion, it lacks the graceful lines of the 390 and 660/661. Function or form?? Both are equally important in my book. 

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1 minute ago, thetoolnut said:

That's a nice saw I'd say, I've used a 395 in the past. A bit of a pig in my opinion, it lacks the graceful lines of the 390 and 660/661. Function or form?? Both are equally important in my book. 

I also have a 395 and preferred it over my now sold 3120 .  I do like the old 394/395 family of saws .

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18 minutes ago, Stubby said:

I also have a 395 and preferred it over my now sold 3120 .  I do like the old 394/395 family of saws .

Indeed, anyone who has a newish 390/395/3120 has the last of them.

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23 minutes ago, thetoolnut said:

Did you ever hear of a pin on a 660 oiler that if modified can increase the flow Spud?? ?

I think you will find it’s the 661\462 and more than likely the 500i Oiler’s.

not the 660. If you want to mod the still oiler it’s a case of taking the pump apart and faffing about with the ramp.

 

one other way is to just buy the ho oiler parts and swap them, you can see  it’s listed in the ipl 

when you see the prices it may make your choice of way forward for you.

i will add the ipl pic but you can google it for the whole doc.

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5 minutes ago, Wonky said:

I think you will find it’s the 661\462 and more than likely the 500i Oiler’s.

not the 660. If you want to mod the still oiler it’s a case of taking the pump apart and faffing about with the ramp.

 

one other way is to just buy the ho oiler parts and swap them, you can see  it’s listed in the ipl 

when you see the prices it may make your choice of way forward for you.

i will add the ipl pic but you can google it for the whole doc.

Thanks, top man, ?

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The ipl 

https://www.motoculture-jean.fr/upload/pdf/MS660.pdf

 

2 and 3 are the parts installed in the normal oiler

10 and 11 are in the Australian ho oiler

you just need to get the parts and swap them.

ive added the pic from the workshop manual so you can see how to remove the roll pin

if you want the workshop manual I can send it to you

 

btw modding the pump involves changing the   Original  ramp on the pump

 

F44938A2-433A-43D0-B1F1-5AC541160C6F.png

094CA2F7-E4EA-46E3-9296-9C20414E31A6.jpeg

21C0434A-E971-4876-9A54-2DE40B4DBA4E.jpeg

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An update on my oiler issue, I purchased a H.O oiler on Ebay from America. I fitted it and test fired the 660, oiling perfectly, ?? Obviously the original oiler was faulty. I'll hang onto it and strip it down when I get time. If I can get it working it would do on a smaller bar. Thanks lads, ???

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