Drilling Cannon Super Bar

[Rough Hewn]

I think drilling in no1 will be ok just put some big strong washers on both sides.

Noooooo!!!!!'
Don't drill it!
[emoji106]

[astra25]

1 minute ago, Rough Hewn said:

Noooooo!!!!!'
Don't drill it!

I think he has made up his mind... ?‍♂️

[gonger]

Nope. Can someone give me some arguments?

[Rough Hewn]

Going to post some pics when i am in my workshop.
 
Yeah it was designed for clamping. But this takes just too much time for chain changing. 
I stopped the time and were by 5 minutes for my 107cm GB bar.
 
In my opinion the time wich i spend at the milling place is really valuable. 
My goal is to slab one whole tree , load it up to the trailer and store it in my workshop 1. Floor in just a day.

Don't drill the bar.
Just clamp it.
If you want a faster professional mill setup get a horizon panther mill.
And learn how to sharpen the chain whilst on the mill.
I only use one chain in a day milling unless I destroy it hitting inclusions.
[emoji106]

[gonger]

The panther mill in my opinion just has 2 advantages.

 

1. Easy height adjustment. ( Doesnt matter to me, since i have my Jigs for various thicknesses)

 

2. Sturtier profiles (30mm works just fine with 107cm, if it should be sag on the 150cm i am going to use 60mm)

 

That dont justifies the big costs on it. But if would definetively buy it, if i just would start from new.

 

Why should i sharpen in the field, when i can change the chain in 5 min? In my Workshop i have a MAXX Chainsaw grinder, wich is going to do the work afterwards.

[Daniël Bos]

I would (and have on my own set-up) drill right through the centre of the sprocket. Use a thick washer either side, slightly bigger than the Ring of rivets.

If you're drilling the nose anyway, might as well maximize capacity.

[Rough Hewn]

If you drill 1 or 2 the weight of the mill will rest on the detachable sprocket nose,
Which will flex over time.
All the big mills I have are drilled in the bar not the sprocket.
And I still hand file on the mill.
[emoji106]

[gonger]

@Daniël Bos

 

Dont want to drill there. I think than the underside of the Mill is going to interfere with the chain. Also i think, that this is going to increse the sagging of the bar, when milling.

 

@Rough Hewn

 

As wanted, there are some pictures of my mill:

 

 

 

 

So you would definitively drill on the #3?

 

Would it also be an option to drill in the small rivet, on the right side of #1?

Edited March 22, 2020 by gonger

[Rough Hewn]

Hi@gonger
Interesting set up [emoji106]
How did you modify the chillaskan?
Yes I would drill no.3
But it's your bar [emoji106]

[Macpherson]

2 hours ago, gonger said:

So you would definitively drill on the #3?

 

Don't see a problem with drilling where you have on 3rd / 4th picture, ok so your loosing a few inches of capacity but with all Alaskan type jigs you have the same dilemma ....to clamp through the sprocket is no doubt possible but would probably require to be a bit more of an engineered solution than just a bolt, and as said the rivets aren't designed for that direction of stress and could be a weak point, but possibly not.....you'd have to try it to find out.

I also sharpen in place but I get your point about just being able to swap chains.?