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Posted

Have we any experienced chainsaw bench grinder users on the forum?

 

Just bought an Oregon 620 for doing our processor chains and the manufacturer guide might as well be non existent, YouTube is vaguely useful but there are some real idiots on there too! I'll probably buy a CBN disk for it though, they seem to leave a better finish and make a quicker job.

 

First chains I've done are cutting OK with nice even chips but not as quick cutting as when I hand filed. Using semi-chisel (oregon 73DPX)mostly as we've got a fair bit of dirty timber currently after it's been chucked about by the harvester and forwarder. I'm hoping my lack of skill with it is the reason for the slowness not the nature of the method!

 

I know how a sharp chain needs to be to cut well, I can do it well by hand even without a guide but the processor likes precision and can't be done on the machine so it's an old bar in a vice job and it's just nothing like doing it on a saw. Apart from the fact it gives me cramp holding a file after more than 1 chain.

 

I'll add some pictures of cutters I've done tomorrow.

 

Here's hoping for some advice!

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Posted

Have we any experienced chainsaw bench grinder users on the forum?
 
Just bought an Oregon 620 for doing our processor chains and the manufacturer guide might as well be non existent, YouTube is vaguely useful but there are some real idiots on there too! I'll probably buy a CBN disk for it though, they seem to leave a better finish and make a quicker job.
 
First chains I've done are cutting OK with nice even chips but not as quick cutting as when I hand filed. Using semi-chisel (oregon 73DPX)mostly as we've got a fair bit of dirty timber currently after it's been chucked about by the harvester and forwarder. I'm hoping my lack of skill with it is the reason for the slowness not the nature of the method!
 
I know how a sharp chain needs to be to cut well, I can do it well by hand even without a guide but the processor likes precision and can't be done on the machine so it's an old bar in a vice job and it's just nothing like doing it on a saw. Apart from the fact it gives me cramp holding a file after more than 1 chain.
 
I'll add some pictures of cutters I've done tomorrow.
 
Here's hoping for some advice!
I've just started working in a shop. We use Oregon grinders and use their disks. From what I've learn't you just need to clean the disk a couple of times, only takes 10 seconds if that. Then you get a nice clean edge
Posted (edited)

Don't hesitate to buy a CBN wheel. Never used a chain grinder but the difference CBN made to my drill bit sharpening was night and day.

 

The slowness is probably due to wheel heat burring the edge slightly. I had exactly the same issues with sharpening drill bits freehand, and CBN solved all my woes.

 

Never need dressing either. The real pros tool.

Edited by doobin
  • Like 1
Posted
this one
 
Thanks, I've watched them before along with many others. I understand the method and aim particularly with hand filing, it's just the grinder wheel is a different kettle of fish from working from the side with a file.
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, SbTVF said:

Full chisel I did today.

Certainly looks and feels sharp enough. Will go test now! fea08977c1284667aff32a000faf2904.jpg747c2c296c56b90614457c0298a44b7f.jpg99dbd490b64c000d309f7e26bd0a910c.jpg

That tooth looks halfway back, and it doesn't look like you've taken the rakers down?

 

If so that'll be your problem! Might just be my eyesight though, the gap also looks OK.

 

Edited by doobin
Posted
That tooth looks halfway back, and it doesn't look like you've taken the rakers down?
 
If so that'll be your problem! Might just be my eyesight though, the gap also looks OK.
 
That's first sharpen on a rotatech chain. I took next to nothing off. It cuts very well I have to say, feel there's too much beak done with a 55° angle on the disk but will see how many cube it lasts for tomorrow. Will try some different angles on another rotatech and see what happens!
  • Like 1

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