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drinksloe

Smaller chain fitting Stihl and husky saws.

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Alright.

 

I realise with ur standard 325 and 3/8s pitch chain ur Stihl and husky run on different gauges so need different chain reels/loops.

 

Was just wondering with ur smaller chain pitches can u run them on both stihl and husky saws?

I have a couple of smaller saws of 3/8's Pico chain and all 1.3mm guage ( 2 stihls, efco and solo climbing saw) but no huskies.

 

Thinking off dropping any I have on 325 down to 3/8's Pico or possibly even the new 325 Pico/husky X cut if I can get bars for Stihl saws.

Or can u get 3/8's Pico for huskies?

Few boys running that new 325 X cut on 572s and 20" bars and saw it really rips but a bugger to sharpen. Not tried it yet

 

Just so i can start making my own loops, at moment running 5 different types of chain. Just a pain really

Would be handy to have as many on the same chain type as possible.

 

Cheers

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In a word , no.
Husky and stihl will not be compatible.
I know you can run all stihl pro saws on 3/8 1.6
Which have the 3003 mount.
That's the 260/261 up to and including the 661.
But honestly it's not worth putting 3/8 on less than 60-70cc. Too draggy.
I run .325 on my 261 and 3/8 on the 461 and 661.
And then there's bloody polesaw chains, electric chainsaw chains and other fiddly buggers.
I now have a wall of chains.

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Rough hewn I've picked me up wrong

At both 325 and 3/8's husky run on 1.5mm bar groove and Stihl at 1.6mm, so got 4 chain types in those 2 pitches

 

 was thinking about either putting either 3/8' s Pico/Low Profile ( basically climbing saw chain, 3/8s but only 1.3mm guage instead off 1.5 or 1.6mm) or this new husky 325 X cut ( not sure if it's 1.1 or 1.3 mm guage, but runs on a standard 325 sprocket) chain on everything under 70cc.

Heard of a few boys running the small chain basically climbing saw chain on 70 cc saws with 18 or 20 bars and loving it as cuts so fast on soft woods

 

Both chains are narrower than ur normal 

 

Not sure if u get husky bars for 3/8"s P or even if the same guage? 

Or if u  can get a Stihl comparable bar to suit husky X cut chain?

 

I'm sick off the wall off chains too.:001_smile:

Fine when there on the wall all in order it's when u find them at the bottom off ur piece bag, wedge bag, petrol can tub or saw tub and a hundred other places I leave them for safe keeping before I hang them up on wall again,  which I usually forget about. 

Esp when part worn and the numbers are worn of drive links.

Got a pile soaking in a an oil bath the now, just went a bit tight wi rust must of been lying bunched up wet in some corner, see if it works never done it before 

 

Edited by drinksloe
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husky 325 X  is  .050 1.3mm

 

WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

[HUSKY3] BC2M-0H37P-A Sugihara 15"[38cm] Pro Lam [Quick Cut Small Nose Version] - .325 .050 64 drive links

 

e.g  Matching this bar

 

Oregon version is 95TXL

 

Sthil take the same chain but different number of links for same size bar so can use same chain but need different loops for each bar.....

 

 

WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

[STIHL3] ST2M-0J37P-A Sugihara Pro Lam [Quick Cut Version] 15"[38cm] .325 .050 62 drive links

 

 

 

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Rough hewn I've picked me up wrong
At both 325 and 3/8's husky run on 1.5mm bar groove and Stihl at 1.6mm, so got 4 chain types in those 2 pitches
 
 was thinking about either putting either 3/8' s Pico/Low Profile ( basically climbing saw chain, 3/8s but only 1.3mm guage instead off 1.5 or 1.6mm) or this new husky 325 X cut ( not sure if it's 1.1 or 1.3 mm guage, but runs on a standard 325 sprocket) chain on everything under 70cc.
Heard of a few boys running the small chain basically climbing saw chain on 70 cc saws with 18 or 20 bars and loving it as cuts so fast on soft woods
 
Both chains are narrower than ur normal 
 
Not sure if u get husky bars for 3/8"s P or even if the same guage? 
Or if u  can get a Stihl comparable bar to suit husky X cut chain?
 
I'm sick off the wall off chains too.:001_smile:
Fine when there on the wall all in order it's when u find them at the bottom off ur piece bag, wedge bag, petrol can tub or saw tub and a hundred other places I leave them for safe keeping before I hang them up on wall again,  which I usually forget about. 
Esp when part worn and the numbers are worn of drive links.
Got a pile soaking in a an oil bath the now, just went a bit tight wi rust must of been lying bunched up wet in some corner, see if it works never done it before 
 

More saw types, more chain types.
I sold off my collection years ago.
Got 6 saws now.
Polesaw (can't remember)
Msa200 1/4 1.1 (for workshop)
261 .325 1.6
461 and 661 3/8 1.6
880 .404 1.6

Basically 3 chain reels .325,3/8,.404
I buy loops for the msa and polesaw.

Ironically I'm now finding the time it takes to count drive links, break and rivet a chain is detracting from other work.
Almost cheaper to get them done by my local dealer.

Except occasionally for when a reel pops up on eBay cheap.

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32 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Msa200 1/4 1.1 (for workshop)

Thought you might be interested to know that I've just bought the msa220 3/8" full chisel bar, chain and sprocket to convert my msa 200 away from the 1/4" picco micro....I was finding that with such little clearance in the kerf that with certain soggy woods if the chain was anything but just sharpened the bar has a tendency to get nipped fairly deep in the back cut, pain in ass 😣

Not tried it yet but I'm fairly confident it'll be alright, I don't intend to dump the pm chain completely as on small garden type jobs it's great but both should be greater.... cost was £76 and if anyone's interested I can post the part numbers later.

Also , as others have said, sharpening the 1/4" chain is a pita.....2 reasons.... a bugger with the wee 1/8" file and also the fact that due to the tiny teeth , they disappear at a faster rate when sharpened and the chain is more expensive to buy.

 

Anyone else finding sharpening the wee chains annoying could try this which is my method... cut the handle off one of these leaving an inch of clean shank to fit in a dremmel type tool also cut off the taper to lessen the length and prevent burling as they don't run true...this ones 150 grit, I prefer 240....they can be found in sets with different grits.......sorry if this is a slightly off topic

 

WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK

Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop sourcingmap 3mm x 140mm Round Diamond Needle File 150 Grit for Metal Glass Stone.

 

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Thought you might be interested to know that I've just bought the msa220 3/8" full chisel bar, chain and sprocket to convert my msa 200 away from the 1/4" picco micro....I was finding that with such little clearance in the kerf that with certain soggy woods if the chain was anything but just sharpened the bar has a tendency to get nipped fairly deep in the back cut, pain in ass 
Not tried it yet but I'm fairly confident it'll be alright, I don't intend to dump the pm chain completely as on small garden type jobs it's great but both should be greater.... cost was £76 and if anyone's interested I can post the part numbers later.
Also , as others have said, sharpening the 1/4" chain is a pita.....2 reasons.... a bugger with the wee 1/8" file and also the fact that due to the tiny teeth , they disappear at a faster rate when sharpened and the chain is more expensive to buy.
 
Anyone else finding sharpening the wee chains annoying could try this which is my method... cut the handle off one of these leaving an inch of clean shank to fit in a dremmel type tool also cut off the taper to lessen the length and prevent burling as they don't run true...this ones 150 grit, I prefer 240....they can be found in sets with different grits.......sorry if this is a slightly off topic
 
WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK
Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop sourcingmap 3mm x 140mm Round Diamond Needle File 150 Grit for Metal Glass Stone.  

My msa200 is great at cross cutting but it can't noodle hardwoods without jamming the bar.
Lacks real torque.
You've put 3/8 on?
I'd like to see a video of that.

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15 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

You've put 3/8 on?
I'd like to see a video of that.

It'll be a few weeks till I try it but all I'm really doing is converting it to the 3/8" bar and chain of the newer msa 220,  I'm not sure if the electric motor is the same but I suspect it has enough power  and if all works out ok I'll get the ap 300s as a second battery.

The 3/8" sprocket is 6 tooth as opposed to 7 for the 1/4"....so about a 14% reduction in chain speed... but I'm hoping that it'll be an improvement on the tiny chain....for my purposes anyway. cheers. 

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