Q's on 'proper muffler-modding' (and basic/entry chainsaw mods in-general)

[spudulike]

I had a 151 in recently, the owner thought is was a bag of poo, it only livened up with the normal Spud recipe which resolved the issues. I tried it before modding and was totally unimpressed as well, afterwards it was like any modded 150 but it was new with one tank through as the owner refused to use it as he owns one of my modified 150s

Matt will know who it was.....and it wasn't him!

 

[MattyF]

 

Have you tried the 151 though?

I used one yesterday for a day and it flew. Couldn’t fault it (reducing a BIG Oak), but then I’ve never used the Echo.

I’m literally about to purchase either the Echo or the 151.

How do you find availability for spares on the Echo?

Good , got my last 2511 from skylands because my local dealer packed up but skylands have a well stocked on line shop for spares too.. even if you have to order parts they come quickly enough I’ve found.

Woud definitely get the 1/4 sprocket and stihl chain and bar set up though.

[spudulike]

Yup, I have ordered a few bits from Skylands, no issues from them!

[billpierce]

Good , got my last 2511 from skylands because my local dealer packed up but skylands have a well stocked on line shop for spares too.. even if you have to order parts they come quickly enough I’ve found.
Woud definitely get the 1/4 sprocket and stihl chain and bar set up though.

Have you found the newer ones less of an arse on with the carb/idle/trigger start?

[MattyF]

Have you found the newer ones less of an arse on with the carb/idle/trigger start?

Not sure yet bill that’s a good question ! I noticed they had new stickers about X series so maybe there is a new carb, I think mine needs a retune already,the low jet definitely needs slightly backing off as there is some over run but it’s probably so ingrained in to me to start it that way it happens without thinking now.

[spudulike]

I have done a couple with the laser etched serial numbers and they seem a bit more stable than the early ones. I always said it was like Echo designed the saw, had a warehouse full of carbs and said...."lets use these up, they should do".....and they are a bit sensitive to adjustment.

[ArborOdyssey]

When I clicked to this link (my 1st-post & 1st-thread on this site, on a topic I was getting crickets on elsewhere so was just hoping for a couple bites) and found I was on Page 3 of a thread I figured I mis-clicked somewhere....Thank you all a million times over, 3 pages of replies I am just beside myself, can't believe I wasted so long before setting-up an account here (just wait, I'll actually read-through the 3 pages and find it's just insults to my topic / wording /etc LOL am hoping/expecting not but lol that'd be funny as I won't be caught-up on this thread til this evening)

Seriously guys(&gals, I hope - my ideal woman certainly wouldn't be out-of-place replying to this type of thread ) thanks a ton for answering the thread, truly!!

 

 

[ArborOdyssey]

On 07/02/2020 at 06:54, spudulike said:

That exhaust port looks like it hasn't been machined correctly to me!

LOL right?!  But it's too 'precise' an imperfection I mean I've seen WAY rougher/uglier CNC'ing (or are such ports done after the block is cnc'd?  Kinda picture it the block & its ports to all be from 1 piece, presumably aluminum?  I know the 25cc in my echo pole-saw is magnesium["military grade" WhateverTF that means..] block but think most are aluminums probably 6000 series/zinc or alum&zinc&magnesium alloy [mostly aluminum] still)

 

 

It looks like it's "asking to be ported" there doesn't it?  I want to just make it as wide-open as the most liberal exhaust porting of a 200t you've ever seen, at all-spots it'd be just as-thick-as the innermost(cylinder-wall) portion of the outlet (@minimum) and wider as it gets to the outlet//muffler interfacing (by the way, gaskets here often suck and poor prep on my part has led to me grinding some - to accommodate modded mufflers)  That's my intuition, but I fear my ignorance on back-pressure could F me here and would hate to miss that or anything that I could be missing....am also planning to ditch all of those ~3/4mm factory 'gaskets' metal-spacers between say muffler&exhaust-outlet-port and instead do a (careful!)bead of Permatex(have Red and Copper, and the reg.-temp "Gray" that's 'high-torque' but never opened/used that one yet, unsure if I'm going overkill with my temp worries....I've done 1 full day >3hrs cut-time minimum with my muffler painted w/ Kryon high-heat(for bbq's, not for car-headers!) and it looks unaffected so far, need a laser thermom....that and press.//vac gauges are next order, had always relied on feel for compression but think there'll be *some* things worth benchmarking w/ precision before/after mods of the sort I wanna get into.  FWIW my intent is to get a 2nd one of these 25cc units exclusively to 'push mods' and have peace-of-mind if I destroy it or need to shelve it for weeks to work-through something (as it's my default saw for anything ~11" and under which makes the vast majority of my cuts!!)

[spudulike]

Your port in the picture - The yellow marks your current exhaust port and it has not been formed correctly. The red marks the area that needs to be bored out - don't forget to bevel the port. 

The cylinders will be cast, machined, plated and then the ports bevelled, I have seen ports like this before and usually just open them up to match the intended shape unless it is to be ported.

You speak about widening ports but haven't mentioned the constraints of the size of bore, ring ends, skirt width, bevelling etc and suggest you understand a bit more before grinding out metal as I have never found a way of sticking the filings back once they hit the bench.

 

[ArborOdyssey]

 

On 07/02/2020 at 14:50, Joe Newton said:

Gains from a muffler mod wouldn't be measured on a tachometer. The benefits are quicker pickup and more torque, not higher rpm.

 

 

Makes sense Re tachometer being useless here (BTW am I doing myself a disservice by getting a cheap generic pressure gauge?  My cheap/generic tachometer has served me well!!)  How would you guys recommend benchmarking?  I've been thinking to just get several long, homogeneous-girth logs to keep for log-cutting-comparisons, I've done cut-speed before and felt like the 'realest' way to benchmark a saw (I was doing 3 cuts and averaging the best 2-of-3 to compare a couple before&afters)

 

 

 

 

On 07/02/2020 at 07:35, Stubby said:

Gonna say the same .  Big lump of flash were the core has not shut off .

So you guys are pretty confident that's an OEM-defect?  Did you see the pic someone posted on p.2 of the echo cs355t where it's got a similar thing going on?  It's a weird look, that is for sure, and my instinct is that it'd be just-fine to remove it entirely (and to open-up the whole port on the echo 355t) but would wanna measure/notate the piston size&path/positioning before removing much from there!

 

On 07/02/2020 at 12:37, CutterSy said:

Have you got pics of the muffler mods you have done?
You can get some gains from just opening up the muffler outlet, but usually you need to open up the baffle to get anything worthwhile.
Hole size and placement can effect it too.
The saw will need a re-tune after.

 

I'll get pics, think there's some online already but mixed-into larger albums ("tanaka restoration" etc)

 

Fully agree Re that center 'wall'/baffle, all my 2-strokes have it, I've always seen it as somethingg my muff-mod *has* to incorporate otherwise it's kinda pointless.....I dunno, I *do* put holes in the back-half of the muffler, I tend to do 1-3 holes in the back-half, pierce the inner/middle wall('baffle')  at least 2x, and then 1-4 extra holes in front half and widening or OEM hole in many instances.  Have burnt a lil plastic but that was my fault forgot to even consider it before use was my husq 125b blower thing  was getting red-hot glowing muffler after use after some mods!

[Note- someone asked so *YES* my Tanaka has a cat(yl.convrtr) however I drilled right through it as well as the center wall/baffle it was affixed to, when modding that muffler - total pig of a mod-job that one, the muffler's 2 retention bolts did nothing to properly line-up the hole on the muffler to the identical hole on the exhaust-outlet on the block so I had to majorly widen the muffler's opening-port and just use Permatex copper for sealing it back on there.

 

 

 

Can you tell me ANYTHING about the re-tune?  I, sadly, still can't do a decent tune w/ the tach I do it by-ear, am good at that (just use my tach to ensure I'm in-range on Idle & Max rpm's) but am very  very curious to know anything of relevance here whether it's minute alterations in oil% in the fuel or if H/L/Idle should be adjusted(&how!), anything would be greatly appreciated!!