chipper in-feed rollers

[combined tree services]

I fitted a double acting cylinder on mine to force the top roller down and smash the laterals off, works a treat at least 100% more efficient

 

You can also lift the top roller for bigger bits and clear any jammed timber, I know these are fitted a lot to big chippers but why not smaller machines?

 

great idea , i had a 9 inch gree mech on demmo for a couple days and if it had been fitted with something like that then we would have kept it

[18 stoner]

I sharpened both rollers on mine, and they have alternate spikes and knives on each roller.

 

I took the top roller out and did it without removing from the motor, and did the bottom one in situe while the top was out.

 

If you are concerned about the temper of the steel, just take it steady with the grinder, and dont "blue" the steel.

 

Put a new spring on! I also put some elastic bungee inside the standard spring. Help a lot on downforce. If you want to go a bit mad, you can get 2 bits of bungee in:blushing:

[18 stoner]

If the bungee bit is not too clear, let me know and ill get some pics of it for you.

 

It really does make a difference:thumbup1:

[rossj]

sorry for the ignorance but whats a double acting cylinder have you any photos please ? many thanks.

[Buzzsurgeon]

sorry for the ignorance but whats a double acting cylinder have you any photos please ? many thanks.

 

A hydraulic ram that powers in and out, don't have photo at hand but will take some if interested:001_smile:

[Ian C]

If the bungee bit is not too clear, let me know and ill get some pics of it for you.

 

It really does make a difference:thumbup1:

 

Yeah put a pic up pete i run a mech220 might help, does it matter where you get the nicker elastic from, get it from out lass, will go round 5 times....

[treequip]

Refurbing infeed rollers is a pretty straightforward job and well within the scope of a DIY’er.

 

You will need a small welder, use “mig” for preference unless you have access to a “tig” which will drastically reduce the amount of grinding involved, an angle grinder and a suitable place to work and of course some PPE.

 

Don’t use a conventional abrasive disk for the grinder. You will get a better result with a “flap disk”. It will take material off at a slower rate and leaves a better finish.

 

Most rollers can be done in situ although you will get a much better job if you remove them. If you can’t get both rollers out removing the top roller will improve access to the bottom roller.

 

Clean the roller edge, it will have cellulose residue and general crud on it.

Run a line of weld along the worn edge, depending on the degree of wear you may need several runs. If you are doing it in situ don’t go right to the edge of the roller because your grinder won’t get into the corner.

 

Now you can grind back the weld to leave an edge that will engage the timber. Those doing it in situ will now be re considering removing at least the top roller.

[J The Tree]

A hydraulic ram that powers in and out, don't have photo at hand but will take some if interested:001_smile:

 

Any pics of the ram/valve setup you have on your machine-seen it on bigger machines not on smaller ones though:001_smile:

[rossj]

A hydraulic ram that powers in and out, don't have photo at hand but will take some if interested:001_smile:

 

yes please

[18 stoner]

Yeah put a pic up pete i run a mech220 might help, does it matter where you get the nicker elastic from, get it from out lass, will go round 5 times....

 

Might need to bear with me a few days Ian, the chipper isnt at my house and it could be a couple of days before i get to it.

 

If you dont hear anything by the weekend, remind me:blushing:

 

As for whos nickers to raid, im not saying, she might suss me out:001_tt2: