Changing the rim/sprocket and using old chains on new bars...

[pleasant]

We have a 'vintage' Oregon rail closing tool. Very handy

 

Here's one in action (from about 30 seconds in)

 

 

Edited December 2, 2022 by pleasant

[Stere]

That  looks like it makes the job  faster & easier  shame you can't get them now?

 

I like that design better than the ebay roller bearing type one.

 

Seems now its just a throw away culture for things that can be fixed -  even for stuff thats  little bother.

 

Im guessing time taken with that tool is only about the same time as it takes  for sharpening a chain.

Edited December 2, 2022 by Stere

[spudulike]

7 hours ago, Stere said:

That  looks like it makes the job  faster & easier  shame you can't get them now?

 

I like that design better than the ebay roller bearing type one.

 

Seems now its just a throw away culture for things that can be fixed -  even for stuff thats  little bother.

 

Im guessing time taken with that tool is only about the same time as it takes  for sharpening a chain.

I have done the same if the rails have splayed and had a reasonable amount of success doing it.

[Rob D]

I have tried this but I think it only gives temp results - because it's only bending in the top part of the rail in so after a bit of use it tends to splay out again as there is not support along the whole depth of the drive link.

 

Pic below is an exageration.

 

Best thing would be to re cut the rail [if it was .058 or .050] up to .063. If it was .063 as new not much can be done.

[pleasant]

The bar rail tool is designed to repair the top flaring if someone had used the saw with a dull chain and lent on the bar to get the chain to cut. Obviously wear caused by a loss of steel isn't going to be cured. The Oregon tool we use can go down to the full depth of the gullet- other tools won't.

[Rob D]

8 hours ago, pleasant said:

The bar rail tool is designed to repair the top flaring if someone had used the saw with a dull chain and lent on the bar to get the chain to cut. Obviously wear caused by a loss of steel isn't going to be cured. The Oregon tool we use can go down to the full depth of the gullet- other tools won't.

 

Ah ok understood.