Alaskan mill anyone got one

[18 stoner]

Gives you a great lot of satisfaction turning good timber into more than just rings!

 

Just a little tip for saw suitability, dont assume your 066 will pull the chain as well in the mill as it does cross cutting:sneaky2:

 

It will run a 36" bar but its on its limit. Make sure you get good ripping chain, and keep it sharp, you'll be ok.

 

Consider running your saw with more oil in the fuel, like 32:1.

 

As others have said, Rob D is the man for info and chains/mill bits.

[Doug Blease]

Does the ripping chain leave a smooth(ish) finish? Do you need to sand/plane the planks?

[18 stoner]

Leaves a much better finish Doug, but if you want a polish finish, it will need a bit of work.

[Doug Blease]

I have a 660 also. What size bar and what brand of ripping chain is the best combination? Are all the mills the same? I wouldnt mind a go at that. I have recently booked an LT40 for a day next year to mill some timber I felled in the summer. Beech and Elm.

 

I currently have no market for the planks. Bit of an experiment really. Any ideas?

[18 stoner]

My set up is alaskan 48" mill but running 36" bar on 660 at the moment. It has oregon chain on it but i think there is better stuff around.

 

I think Rob is really the man to ask Doug, i am still in the playing around stage at the moment, but it is good fun:thumbup:

[Doug Blease]

Yeah, cheers. Quite interested in doing a bit.

[robert t]

I used a husqvarna 372 with 24" bar for smaller diameter logs and husqvarna 3120 with 42" bar on larger logs. I only ever used standard chains on the mills, if I kept them sharp I had no probs. Finish on the boards were a bit rough on some of the harder woods but all the finished timber went through thicknesser so wasn't much of prob for me. I also used a Sperber double slaber mill with a 3120 on each end. Only prob, I had to modify the oiling holes on the double ended bar to fit husqvarna. Serious bit of kit a lot easer on you, but good bit more expensive, also you have to have another body to help you. I found I had more of a market for selling good quality wider boards as most of the mobile mills can only mill about 22" through and through so the double slaber paid for itself quickly

[Darren]

Rob sells Granberg ripping which claims to be 20% more efficient than a ordinary ripping chain. My 660 goes through the wood quickly enough. Knee pads are probably a good idea, at they will keep the damp off your knees.

[tommer9]

Alaskans are very useful tools, albeit very wasteful, but then its still better than burning quality timber.

Josh.......did you REALLY mill that beautiful yew with an alaskan.......you heathen!:001_tt2:

[Rob D]

Don't listen to him Josh - these bandsaw millers go a bit funny upstairs after a few years

 

Alaskan milling is hard work and will create a lot of sawdust but really it's to get some planks cheaply without needing to get in bigger equipment.

 

As for ripping chain then all the major brands will work well - but unlike cross cutting where you can get away with a dull chain you can't with milling.

 

The bar needs to be unworn, the chain sharp and the depth guages correctly set. When you get it right the mill almost pulls itself through the wood.

 

You're best way of selling the wood to start with is to make it into things - rustic furniture suits the planks you get. But I've had people buying mills off me recently who were being sponsered by cabinet makers (mainly looking for elm).