Saw size for milling

[trigger_andy]

31 minutes ago, Jamespepperpot said:

Ive quarter sawn stuff with a chainsaw mill once or twice. I'm sure there are a few ways to do it but as I have a large mill I usually cut the top off flat then run the mini mill down the centre of the log but leave a few inches of timber at the bottom so it doesn't split apart. This means you can mill the log in the same position and not have to try and hold a semi circle shaped piece of wood upright. I'm not hugely into wide slabs as they can be a pain to move around and deal with - especially in a small workshop like mine. True quartersawwing isn't worth the effort with a chainsaw mill as you lose too much with the kerf. The timber is far nicer to work with when turning it into something 

Thanks for the reply.   

 

When slabbing with my Chainsaw Mills the middle slabs will true quarter sawn anyway. So when they are stacked drying its easy to ID them if stacked as milled.

 

After two years of deliberating and looking for a used Bandsaw Mill I treated myself to a Logosol B751. So although quarter sawing wastes more I'd like a supply drying for future projects. 

[Big J]

If possible, it's always worth considering quarter sawing. But...

 

• The log needs to be a minimum of 1m in diameter. Ideally larger really
• You need a log with a central heart. Any tree that has grown with a lean will not work
• Only quarter saw completely clean logs. Quarter sawn figure through pip or burr just looks odd, and no where near as attractive as flat sawn

 

The benefit of quarter sawing is that you end up with boards that are completely stable. Assuming you've gone through the selection process stipulated above, you'll have boards that do not bend or twist at all through the drying process. You have higher wastage in milling, but much lower wastage in drying and a higher value product.

 

With regards the logs in question, the first log looks very good, the second should be cross cut just below the first collar. There isn't much point milling around that bend. 

 

As regards thicknesses, 2.25" is a good one to go with. A nice combination of thick enough for tables, but light enough that it's not going to kill you moving the boards. They'll always sell. 

 

Worth considering the drying time with oak as well, as taking it up to 3" will add a year to the financial recovery time for the logs.

 

And finally, if you are going to mill it this season, it needs to be in the next week or two. It's late and it'll warm up soon, and you run the risk of checking in the timber.

[ucoulddoit]

21 hours ago, trigger_andy said:

Done much quarter sawn Oak? When you Milled the 1" x 3' Slabs did they warp as well and as much? 

 

I plan on playing around with 1/4 sawing when I get back from Off-Shore.  

I quarter sawed a 30 inch diameter oak log a few years ago using a small log mill. The log which was about 6 feet long, was sawn freehand into quarters by the tree surgeon I bought it from so that I could transport it home. Then each quarter was set up as shown in the sketch below with a narrow ply board screwed to each end to support the guide ladder for the first cut. I milled 4 inch thick planks with a view to re-sawing them on my bandsaw into thinner planks once the timber has air dried and I know what thickness I need for projects that are still to be designed. Quite a wasteful way of milling from some perspectives, but my priority was to have some 'true' quartersawn oak for furniture making, e.g. thin stuff for drawers. etc. It's been drying for over 4 years now and is looking good, and I'm aiming to re-saw some of it in due course.

 

Andrew

[trigger_andy]

9 minutes ago, Big J said:

The log needs to be a minimum of 1m in diameter. Ideally larger really

Interesting, from having watched a few Youtube vids the logs all seemed to be  30-36" I guess thats because Im looking for tips and instructions on using a Bandsaw in that range. If I got some 1m+ logs I guess I could roughly 1/4 them on Deck with a Chainsaw then move the 1/4's to my Mill for further processing. 

 

I'll see what logs I get when I order my 10t of Oak, maybe ask for a few 1m+ then.  

 

Cheers.

[Big J]

2 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

Interesting, from having watched a few Youtube vids the logs all seemed to be  30-36" I guess thats because Im looking for tips and instructions on using a Bandsaw in that range. If I got some 1m+ logs I guess I could roughly 1/4 them on Deck with a Chainsaw then move the 1/4's to my Mill for further processing. 

 

I'll see what logs I get when I order my 10t of Oak, maybe ask for a few 1m+ then.  

 

Cheers.

Easiest way to quarter a large log is with a chainsaw mill like this: 

 

 

(copy and pasted from the ASHS website, that's me in the left hand photo).

 

That way you can exactly measure the top rail so that the saw enters and exits the log precisely on the pith. You then ratchet strap the log at each end and at the middle and roll it 90 degrees. Get your top rail level again, take off the first ratchet, start your cut and restrap the log once the saw is clear. Take the centre strap off as you approach it with the saw and restrap once you're past. Same with the last strap. 

 

Sounds laborious, but it's quite quick. You also end up with 4 perfect quarters.

[trigger_andy]

12 minutes ago, ucoulddoit said:

I quarter sawed a 30 inch diameter oak log a few years ago using a small log mill. The log which was about 6 feet long, was sawn freehand into quarters by the tree surgeon I bought it from so that I could transport it home. Then each quarter was set up as shown in the sketch below with a narrow ply board screwed to each end to support the guide ladder for the first cut. I milled 4 inch thick planks with a view to re-sawing them on my bandsaw into thinner planks once the timber has air dried and I know what thickness I need for projects that are still to be designed. Quite a wasteful way of milling from some perspectives, but my priority was to have some 'true' quartersawn oak for furniture making, e.g. thin stuff for drawers. etc. It's been drying for over 4 years now and is looking good, and I'm aiming to re-saw some of it in due course.

 

Andrew

Very cool idea.   Thanks for sharing. 

 

How did you stabilize it from below? Just wedge it up?

[trigger_andy]

4 minutes ago, Big J said:

Easiest way to quarter a large log is with a chainsaw mill like this: 

 

 

(copy and pasted from the ASHS website, that's me in the left hand photo).

 

That way you can exactly measure the top rail so that the saw enters and exits the log precisely on the pith. You then ratchet strap the log at each end and at the middle and roll it 90 degrees. Get your top rail level again, take off the first ratchet, start your cut and restrap the log once the saw is clear. Take the centre strap off as you approach it with the saw and restrap once you're past. Same with the last strap. 

 

Sounds laborious, but it's quite quick. You also end up with 4 perfect quarters.

Thats such a good idea as well! Deffo gonna do it this way.  

 

Im sure my Alaskans only have a depth of around 12-14 inches? Can you order extra deep legs?

[Big J]

3 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

Thats such a good idea as well! Deffo gonna do it this way.  

 

Im sure my Alaskans only have a depth of around 12-14 inches? Can you order extra deep legs?

I got extra long uprights from Rob. I'm sure they do them for the Panther mills as well.

 

I deeply hate free hand quartering logs. It's very hard work and you end up with an untidy and inaccurate product. Boards with ragged edges don't sell well, and you'll lose at least an inch in board measure from every board when free hand quartered.

[Coletti]

If possible, it's always worth considering quarter sawing. But...
 

• The log needs to be a minimum of 1m in diameter. Ideally larger really
• You need a log with a central heart. Any tree that has grown with a lean will not work
• Only quarter saw completely clean logs. Quarter sawn figure through pip or burr just looks odd, and no where near as attractive as flat sawn

 
The benefit of quarter sawing is that you end up with boards that are completely stable. Assuming you've gone through the selection process stipulated above, you'll have boards that do not bend or twist at all through the drying process. You have higher wastage in milling, but much lower wastage in drying and a higher value product.
 
With regards the logs in question, the first log looks very good, the second should be cross cut just below the first collar. There isn't much point milling around that bend. 
 
As regards thicknesses, 2.25" is a good one to go with. A nice combination of thick enough for tables, but light enough that it's not going to kill you moving the boards. They'll always sell. 
 
Worth considering the drying time with oak as well, as taking it up to 3" will add a year to the financial recovery time for the logs.
 
And finally, if you are going to mill it this season, it needs to be in the next week or two. It's late and it'll warm up soon, and you run the risk of checking in the timber.

Cheers for the input, it's much appreciated. I was wondering about the bend and had considered what you have suggested. Ideally I'd like yo sell if fresh as I'm not sure I have the space to store it for years. I have it booked in for the end of the month so couple of weeks time

[ucoulddoit]

13 hours ago, trigger_andy said:

Very cool idea.   Thanks for sharing. 

 

How did you stabilize it from below? Just wedge it up?

Yes, the quarters were fairly easy to manhandle into position and support with blocks, etc. As you've probably realised this was for my own use and hence I wasn't too worried about the time it took and higher waste than other methods.

 

Andrew