Heated grips Husqvarna

[KJC]

Thats true, but this carb is probably decent ground because the studs seem to be attached to the cylinder. However this blue groundwire doesnt seemt to be the stock Husqvarna-solution, so I am hoping to figure out how the original wiring was, and change it to that.

[adw]

It’s a long time since I worked on these, however from memory there was a conjoined double wire from the ignition unit, one to the unit, the other under one of the units fixing screws, then up to the toggle switch ( can’t remember it being on the right? ) one wire to the switch terminal the other had an eye which was retained under the switch securing nut, this to create an earth due to the tank being isolated by the av rubbers, this wire has a jump wire over to the earth side of the heater switch, the wire from the hot side of the switch runs to one side of the rear handle heater pad, a barrel nut takes the power over to the other side heater pad, from here a wire runs to the under side of the top handle, through the heater element and returns under the tank to the generator, as said, with a multi meter you must have a continuity from the hot side of the switch through to the generator, sorry a bit long winded but that is how I remember it, over and out.

 

[KJC]

Hi Adw. I think i understand your explanation but i am not able to define the "hot side" of the switch since I seem to be missing the connection to the generator. This is how my saw was wired:

 

Part 98 and 99 and the wires from the generator (x and y) are nowhere to be found. Im hesitant to remove the flywheel because Im afraid of messing up the timing.

 

 

 

[Stubby]

8 hours ago, KJC said:

Hi Adw. I think i understand your explanation but i am not able to define the "hot side" of the switch since I seem to be missing the connection to the generator. This is how my saw was wired:

 

Part 98 and 99 and the wires from the generator (x and y) are nowhere to be found. Im hesitant to remove the flywheel because Im afraid of messing up the timing.

 

 

 

You should be ok removing the fly wheel and returning it in position as long as the fly wheel key is intact and not shared . 

[Khriss]

1 hour ago, Stubby said:

You should be ok removing the fly wheel and returning it in position as long as the fly wheel key is intact and not shared . 

Surely.. You mean 'sheared' 🤔 you know, like sheep.... K

[adw]

You should have one or two wires coming from the generator dependent of which one you have, if you cannot find the wires then they have broken off, so you need to remove the flywheel to assess what has happened, the 240 is old school so has a steel woodruff key, so as long as you do not loose the key the timing will be easily reset, the live wire from the generator goes to one side of the top handle. The green question mark is a protective sleeve around the HT lead so nothing to do with the wiring

[Khriss]

Hmmm does look like generator might be missing 😦 should be a wire out from it to a module mounted left of flywheel ( is on my 266) k

[adw]

I was always crap at technical drawing.

 

[KJC]

I will try to remove the flywheel this evening to see what has happened to the X wire. I see that there is a part-saw which I might get the generator from if the cable is cut.

I have made a wiring diagram now, which makes sense to me if the X-wire is supposed to go behind the Coil and up through the hole, and pass the cylinder and back to the heater-switch.

 

Let me know if you think it looks correct. Ignition circuit is pink, and the heater-circuit is green.

 

 

[KJC]

I see your wiring now, Adw. I think it is similar solution as mine. So it all depends on whether I can find the X

 

I will let you know.

 

Thanks for the help!