Husky 560 chain brake problem

[jamallio96]

Hi guys, the little pin that acts as a hinge for part of the chain brake system in the clutch cover has sheared, and now I can't get the bloody thing out to replace it! I have attached photos of the broken pin in the clutch cover and the replacement part.

The ridged section of the replacement is the bit that goes into the clutch cover, and the extra friction from those ridges and fact that I can't really get any purchase on the top as it's sheared off flat had made it a right PITA!

Anybody experienced and solved this problem or have any advice?

Cheers!

J

[Mark_Skyland]

Drilling a small hole through the cover on the opposite side of the pin and then tapping it out with a suitable punch was the only way I've been able to remove them.

 

 

[peatff]

You need a welder to stick a small nut to it so you can grab it with some grips and wiggle it out. Weld a washer on it first through the hole then the nut on top. Grab it while it's still hot and it will come out easier.

Edited January 15, 2019 by peatff

[woodwizzard]

Could drill a hole big enough for a self tapping screw and then pull out with pliers or similar.

[Stubby]

9 minutes ago, woodwizzard said:

Could drill a hole big enough for a self tapping screw and then pull out with pliers or similar.

Or a small slide hammer .

[spudulike]

I would reckon that the little pin would be hardened making drilling it out almost impossible with the risk that the drill will drift in to the alloy!

Marks idea is exactly what I was thinking before I read it and is of minimal risk to the cover.

[jamallio96]

Thanks for replies guys! I was thinking about drilling it and putting a screw in but figured the exact same thing; it seems like the metal the pin is made of is very hard and I would just end up damaging the inside of the clutch cover around it, especially as I have access to neither a vice or pillar drill - I'd just be asking for trouble with a workmate and battery drill!
I also don't have access to a welder and would rather not pay to have such a tiny part replaced :-P
Mark and/or Spud, just to check - you're sure that drilling a hole from the outside of the clutch cover behind where the pin is in order to tap it out will have little to no effect on the overall strength of the clutch cover?
Cheers again!

[spudulike]

I would make sure that you are drilling in the right position - take care on that part. I would use a 2.0 - 2.5mm drill and make sure it is sharp as some of this alloy isn't easy to drill. Pop a single hole through from the outside and then use a 2mm drift to knock it out - a broken drill with the broken part ground flat would make a good drift.

You won't be weakening the structure of the casting at all as the strength needed is in the vertical structure when in position and not the horizontal.

Manufacturers often have small holes in these covers to drive out the end of the chain brake band which can get stuck in the casting over time. If you really want, you could seal it with a bit of epoxy afterwards but wouldn't bother myself.

Start at 2.5mm and wouldn't go much over 3mm - you can start small and go bigger if needed but not the other way round!

You could use a little bearing retainer fluid on the new pin but is an interference fit with splines so shouldn't need it.

That's how I would do it - if it all goes tits up, you can still just purchase a new cover so no drama TBH! 

I am sure Mark can help with that

[jamallio96]

Thanks very much Spud, a very clear and comprehensive answer! I'll probably give it a go today - as much as my little 445 punches above it's weight, I miss the power of my 560! :-P
I was thinking that even if I eff it up then a new clutch cover ain't a huge cost, but it's far better to have been armed with knowledge first to make that scenario less likely. Will post the results of my attempt later! :-)

[jamallio96]

Yay, all fixed! Bit of a bastard to align the hole correctly when drilling from the outside, ended up drilling 2 as first wasn't quite on target - might put a bead of epoxy in that one but leave the correct one free in case I ever have to replace that stupid little pin again!
I even managed to get the spring back in and fully compressed using only the workmate and a pair of snub nose pliers, second time I've had to do the spring and it's still a PITA! But at least I can use my saw tomorrow ^.^
Thanks again everybody!