560XP hot start

[Alycidon]

12 hours ago, spudulike said:

Are you using the decomp valve?

Only when starting cold,   it pops out after the first pull anyway.

 

A

[Alycidon]

12 hours ago, Mark_Skyland said:

Hot start procedure is this.

 

Switch out and up to put the choke on then push lever down to knock choke off but leave on part throttle.

 

Few pumps on the bulb, DO NOT push the decompressor button in, pull the saw over FAST.

 

If im honest, the worst thing I see operators do is not pull the saw over fast enough. 

 

To start our 560 from warm I would give it one fast pull if it didn't run straight away put it on part throttle as per above.

 

If you flood a husky it can be a bad start to the day.

 

 

 

 

 

Pull it as fast as I can,  but will try again pulling faster.    I usually give it two maybe three pulls when restarting with no choke or throttle on.   This problem did not exist prior to the crankcase gasket problem occurring.  Cold start is perfect as is a very hot start after a two minute refuel stop.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

A

[spudulike]

11 hours ago, Alycidon said:

Pull it as fast as I can,  but will try again pulling faster.    I usually give it two maybe three pulls when restarting with no choke or throttle on.   This problem did not exist prior to the crankcase gasket problem occurring.  Cold start is perfect as is a very hot start after a two minute refuel stop.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

A

Not being funny, you do flip the choke on and then off to get the saw in to the "fast idle...start" position when starting hot? While on the subject, if you put the choke on, take it off and then open the throttle (not trying to start it), do you get a slight click noise as you pull the throttle? This should be the fast idle clicking off and back to normal idle.

Not recommended but it works - if the saw isn't starting when warm or hot, don't give it any more than 3 pulls on full choke, hold the throttle fully open and pull the saw over hard with no decomp, this is a bit "redneck" but it does get the saw going - not one for the rule book though!

[Alycidon]

On 03/09/2018 at 21:40, spudulike said:

Not being funny, you do flip the choke on and then off to get the saw in to the "fast idle...start" position when starting hot? While on the subject, if you put the choke on, take it off and then open the throttle (not trying to start it), do you get a slight click noise as you pull the throttle? This should be the fast idle clicking off and back to normal idle.

Not recommended but it works - if the saw isn't starting when warm or hot, don't give it any more than 3 pulls on full choke, hold the throttle fully open and pull the saw over hard with no decomp, this is a bit "redneck" but it does get the saw going - not one for the rule book though!

If its sat for 15/20 minutes while I tidy up/load the timber I have cut I give it two maybe three pulls with no choke, no decomp valve,  just a few pushes of the bulb to make sure the fuel has not evaporated.

 

Given that does not start it,  move choke lever to the top ( choke on position) then push in down to the run position where it holds the throttle part open.   dont touch de comp valve,  sometimes a few more pushes of the bulb and pull away.  I used to fire up 2nd or 3 rd pull but not now.   Sunday I got into that situation twice, it took 20 pulls to start it.     It does run fine once running.    Took it back to the supplying dealer today who was also the guy who repaired it.   The usual servcie guy was away on hols but the replacement had not heard of the Husky retrofit crankcase with extra bolt to increase clamping and prevent gaskit failure.   

 

Maybe I will have to take it to the APF show and talk face to face with Husky themselves.

 

A

[Alycidon]

On 04/09/2018 at 21:21, Alycidon said:

If its sat for 15/20 minutes while I tidy up/load the timber I have cut I give it two maybe three pulls with no choke, no decomp valve,  just a few pushes of the bulb to make sure the fuel has not evaporated.

 

Given that does not start it,  move choke lever to the top ( choke on position) then push in down to the run position where it holds the throttle part open.   dont touch de comp valve,  sometimes a few more pushes of the bulb and pull away.  I used to fire up 2nd or 3 rd pull but not now.   Sunday I got into that situation twice, it took 20 pulls to start it.     It does run fine once running.    Took it back to the supplying dealer today who was also the guy who repaired it.   The usual servcie guy was away on hols but the replacement had not heard of the Husky retrofit crankcase with extra bolt to increase clamping and prevent gaskit failure.   

 

Maybe I will have to take it to the APF show and talk face to face with Husky themselves.

 

A

Dealer came back today saying they have not been able to find any problem with it.  Maybe its me not pulling it hard enough after all.     Time will tell.   new MS462 arrives next week so I dont suppose the 560 will now get much use.

[Mark_Skyland]

On 03/09/2018 at 10:22, Alycidon said:

Pull it as fast as I can,  but will try again pulling faster.    I usually give it two maybe three pulls when restarting with no choke or throttle on.   This problem did not exist prior to the crankcase gasket problem occurring.  Cold start is perfect as is a very hot start after a two minute refuel stop.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

A

Ah right, thought it was just a problem you were having from new. If you had no issues before them not sure exactly what it could be but not start issues are usually low compression problems. Could be the tank vent depending on how old the saw is ie which tank vent system it has, or an ignition issue. At last put a new plug in it and check the gap between the coil and flywheel .3mm will do and.5 mm on the spark plug.

 

Once it's running does it have plenty of power and idle ok etc?

Hope you get it sorted.

[Alycidon]

I did put a new plug in when the problem first occurred hoping that was the issue,  have not checked gap between coil and flywheel though,  not sure how to go about that but when it last went in a couple of weeks ago I did ask that they serviced it and changed the air filter at the same time.    Saw was new in April 2014,  does around 50/60 working hours a year, cutting up wind blown trees mainly,

 

Once its running it runs nicely, picks up and idles fine and has seen no noticeable drop off in power,  with the exception of the delayed hot start then its pretty well all as per normal.

 

Thanks again for your help and advice,

 

 

A

[Sawchip]

15 minutes ago, Alycidon said:

I did put a new plug in when the problem first occurred hoping that was the issue,  have not checked gap between coil and flywheel though,  not sure how to go about that but when it last went in a couple of weeks ago I did ask that they serviced it and changed the air filter at the same time.    Saw was new in April 2014,  does around 50/60 working hours a year, cutting up wind blown trees mainly,

 

Once its running it runs nicely, picks up and idles fine and has seen no noticeable drop off in power,  with the exception of the delayed hot start then its pretty well all as per normal.

 

Thanks again for your help and advice,

 

 

A

This may seem almost to simple a thing to do after all you and your dealer have already done. All things being fine with the fuel/air and electrical side of your saw (may or may not be ) then the need for good compression is still a consideration. As others have said "do not use the de comp" when hot to give the saw the best chance of holding in the compression it has (it is likely to be less now than when new). This is the simple check to do....when the de comp is out (top case off)  give it some spins holding it against the friction. I have had them leak a little with carbon build up inside. If yours  has a slight leak you may bed the valve back tight on its seat. You could check for a leak before if you want and then after. 

[Alycidon]

30 minutes ago, Sawchip said:

This may seem almost to simple a thing to do after all you and your dealer have already done. All things being fine with the fuel/air and electrical side of your saw (may or may not be ) then the need for good compression is still a consideration. As others have said "do not use the de comp" when hot to give the saw the best chance of holding in the compression it has (it is likely to be less now than when new). This is the simple check to do....when the de comp is out (top case off)  give it some spins holding it against the friction. I have had them leak a little with carbon build up inside. If yours  has a slight leak you may bed the valve back tight on its seat. You could check for a leak before if you want and then after. 

Will have a look at that once I get it back,  thanks for the heads up.

 

A

[Drew87]

I have a 560XP,   about 4 years old,  ( New Apr 14),  done about 250 hours.
 
Had an issue recently with hot start, a 2 minute break to refuel was fine but a ten minute break to change a chain and it would not start untill cool.
 
Taken it into my local dealer who supplied it.  They advise two small holes in the crankcase,  this had allowed air to be drawn into the crankcase and has scuffed the piston,   so new crankcase, piston etc and 4 hours labour to re build.   Cost more than a new saw,
 
Has anyone else had this issue,   do not feel like buying another Husky given that the engine also seized soon after buying as the dealer had sold be Sthil 2 stroke mix to go with it,  should be synthetic mix.
 
Suggestions please,  especially from Stubby ( ?) the guy that ports saws,
 
Thanks
 
A
 
 

Sounds to me, like it was originally a PSI Leakage, from the Need of a Ring &/ Piston Change.. (Did it start 'Gurgling/Spitting' between Refuels once run in hot.?.)
Heat not escaping from the muffler but overheating the body instead.. would be my guess..
Was the Air Intake Boot checked for air escaping.? Newer Huskys tend to blow out a gap back there & need a new seal, Either replace whole boot section suggested) / DIY it yourself with a temp resistant sealant..
If can access the Cylinder Base Bolts (and they aren't spot-welded shut),, Check base for signs of any leaks too..
If sure thats ok,, check the cylinder with a PSI Gauge for any leaks.

I wouldn't suggest porting it / drilling the crank case,, without checking the unit over as a standard saw 1st..
I've only been tinkering with saw guts, just over a year now, so who am I to say whats right/wrong,, just suggestions.. [emoji106]