Queries/thoughts on small-scale milling with an electric chainsaw

[Britt woodworker]

Many thanks to everyone who has taken the time and trouble to respond to this post. 

 

Conclusion: - Even on a small-scale occasional use basis, it's definitely a thumbs down, as an electric chainsaw just hasn't the power "to cut it" when milling in all senses of the phrase!

 

I fully accept that advice and am grateful to all who have responded. 

Under normal circumstances I would just walk away from this.  However, I have just been offered the loan of a  small mill and I just can't resist the temptation of following Daniël's advice and giving it a go.  What I propose to do is  video my attempt and post the same on my website which, if nothing else, will demonstrate the futility/limitations of doing this, will show why it won't work, and can be used as a reference for anyone else who might think it's viable. 

 

I could post a link here when done

Thanks again.

[CDMR]

I started off milling in exactly the same boat as you. I have a workshop between residential properties and cannot make too much noise. The wood I wanted to mill was relatively small (up to 12") and mainly softwood. Though I have also done some hardwoods including oak and hornbeam using the same rig. It just takes a while

 

I bought a cheapo 2000W electric saw and took off the dogs to get a bit more cutting length. I also managed to get hold of a cheap, steel Alaskan style rig. The two set me back less than £100 on ebay. I kitted the saw out with an Oregon bar with a good wide tip so that you can mount the clamp on the Alaskan as near to the end as possible without squeezing the chain (grind down the clamps to give a little more space), and a ripping chain.

 

I then mounted the whole rig upside down on a table made from scaffold tube and kee-klamp with a kitchen worktop. I wrote it up in a blog post here. https://www.colwillandco.co.uk/2016/04/22/planking/

 

I reckon you could perhaps get another couple of inches out of it if you put on an auxiliary oiler or perhaps went to a skip chain but you are basically at the limit of the motor you can run off a plug.

 

I put the project together for a job to make a side table from a cedar atlantica that had been felled effectively as fire wood so no decent lengths had been preserved. It worked out quite nicely I think.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 8, 2018 by CDMR
poss peer spooling

[CDMR]

Just as a post script. I have also now invested in a 660 and an Alaskan for anything bigger or tougher.

[Britt woodworker]

 

Many thanks for your post Richard.  Comments as follow:

8 minutes ago, CDMR said:

I bought a cheapo 2000W electric saw and took off the dogs to get a bit more cutting length.  I kitted the saw out with an Oregon bar with a good wide tip so that you can mount the clamp on the Alaskan as near to the end as possible without squeezing the chain (grind down the clamps to give a little more space), and a ripping chain.

That's exactly what I want to do.  Can you tell me which spec Oregon bar you used?

 

10 minutes ago, CDMR said:

The wood I wanted to mill was relatively small (up to 12") and mainly softwood. Though I have also done some hardwoods including oak and hornbeam using the same rig. It just takes a while

That' would be my spec as the resulting boards would mainly be for woodturning projects. I accept that it would be slow which is no problem as it would only be for occasional use for for the odd special timber that I get offered.

 

Many thanks for posting I will have a look at your blog post.

[billpierce]

You very welcome to buy my husqvarna 320 electric saw (2000w) with 18" Oregon bar for 50quid if you want a decent electric saw.

Good luck I'd be interested in how you get on. Personally I wouldn't invest in ripping chain and new bars and oilers etc until you have had a bit of a go.

[CDMR]

5 minutes ago, billpierce said:

Personally I wouldn't invest in ripping chain and new bars and oilers etc until you have had a bit of a go.

I would suggest the chain or at least a good regular chain is a wise buy. Most of the cheapo electric saws come with appalling chains that leave the wood like corrugated cardboard. As for oilers, I would suggest a fairy bottle, tube and a small clamp just to establish what effect it has.

[Lazurus]

 

 

Have a look at my budget milling thread, not quiet as an electric, but economical.

[Daniël Bos]

5 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

Lets face it:

Most people that come on forums asking for help/advice don't actually want any. They just want to hear whatever answer they'd like to hear most.

A brilliant one was a chap a while ago who asked whether he should mix 33/1 or 50/1 for his saw. 

He got 10 or 12 responses, all of which said he should mix 50/1.

His closing reply: "Ok, that's what I thought, I'll just mix 33/1 to be safe..."

 

In this case though, I'm genuinely thinking that the electric saw could work ok, all the torque, all the time! It'll be slow, but judging by the way the op is intending to proceed he/she's probably got more time than money.

[Rough Hewn]

If you are going to use a small electric saw:
Get the thinnest bar and chain combo 1.1mm gauge
1/4"picco chain and if possible change the number of sprocket teeth from 7 to 6 or 6 to 5.
This will increase torque and decrease chain speed.
You will need to sharpen the chain impeccably.
All teeth the same length, special care with the depth gauges 0.5 mm max.
Cutting teeth re-filed to 0 degrees.
Don't push the saw in the cut, listen to the chain.
Keep the chain sound up and regular.
Don't see saw, keep at 90 degrees to the wood at all times.
Be extra careful entering and exiting the cut.
The use of an over length ladder really helps.
Show us your results!
Good luck
[emoji106]

[Britt woodworker]

Many thanks for that advice which is well given.  I'll be back with results.