Queries/thoughts on small-scale milling with an electric chainsaw

[Britt woodworker]

Hello

I am a woodworker primarily engaged in woodturning and related small-scale woodworking projects. I often obtain boles and boughs of lumber from tree surgeons which I free cut with my electric chainsaw and share with colleagues.

However with some of the more attractive and rare timber that often comes my way, I would like to utilize as much of the wood as possible by using a small chainsaw mill. The overall diameter of these boles and boughs never exceeds about 14"

The major constraint is working in a residential area where the use of a petrol powered chainsaw is really not an option.

With that in mind, I would like to do this small-scale milling with a good quality electric chainsaw and a small mill such as the 36″ Ecomill or Alaskan Mill.

I have been trying to do some homework on this and have come to the following conclusions. I am most grateful for advice from Rob at Chainsaw Bars on specific equipment queries but would greatly appreciate some comments on what I think could be a way forward.

Mill choice

As regards choice, I would prefer a mill as specified above, which grips the guide bar at both ends rather than on the one end of the guide bar, even though this reduces the maximum cutting diameter. It seems to me that the the clamping pressure on a single (or double) pressure point at the power end of the bar would need to be excessive to avoid movement through leverage, and minimize vibration which can effect the guide when cutting parallel with the grain.  Electric chainsaw guide bars may not be tough enough for this (see discussion below on guide bars).

Which chainsaw?

A good quality electric chainsaw would be essential and I have considered corded and battery models. I think that none of the battery powered chainsaws can currently compete with the power of the corded models and, as the milling would be within easy reach of outdoor mains power, this is not an issue.

I have shortlisted the Makita UC4051A (Chain Gauge 0.050" Chain Pitch 3/8" Lo pro, chain Speed 14.5m/sec, guide bar size 40 cm (matching the Oregon 160SDEA041 bar), 2000 watts, 15Amp, Net weight 5.6 kg). The longitudinally orientated motor would look to provide better balance than those with transversely mounted motors. One of the good features of this saw is that it has a safety cut-out which cuts power if the saw is overloaded. This saw has a good lineage and generally very good reviews.

Replacement guide bar?

This saw (like all electric chainsaws), is very much aimed at the home/hobbyist light user and I think that the standard guide bar (Oregon 160SDEA041) with a small radius tip to minimize kick-back risk would probably not be wide or strong enough to withstand the pressure/size of the mill guide-bar clamps. To this end Rob of Chainsaw Bars has suggested alternative bars such as the BL1M-0L40-A Sugihara Pro Lam 16″ 3/8 Lo Pro .050 58 drive links. Some of these have wide radius tips ideal for mill use but increasing kick-back.  However, it would only be used for milling (where the tip of the saw is guarded), so that kick-back risk would be greatly reduced.

Longer guide bar?

A 16” (40cm) length bar with an Alaskan mill would give an effective cutting breadth of about 8” (205mm). One possibility would be to use a longer 18” (45.5cm) bar which would increase the effective cutting capacity to about 10” (25.5cm), which I would reason should still be in the capacity of the saw, bearing in mind that the length of the default guide bar is 40cm. Would the use of a 20” bar (effective cutting capacity 12” (30.5cm) be safe and still within the capabilities of the saw? If longer is viable, what longer alternatives are available for a saw with an Oregon 160SDEA041 guide bar?

Auxilary oiler

I would rig and use an Auxillary Oiler Kit (in addition to using the automatic system which is built into the saw), to maximize lubrication and minimize load on the saw.

I'm sorry that this is such a long post but there is very little information to be had on this topic (perhaps such milling is a none starter?). Any advice on the points raised above would be very much appreciated. If I go ahead I will certainly post an update to this topic as regards progress (or otherwise).

Very many thanks!
 

[Rough Hewn]

What saw are you going to use?
Most electric saws are rather small and milling would mess them up.
For a 14" cut you'd need at least an 18" bar maybe a 20".

[Wonkydonkey]

I don't know what wood you want to mill, IE green or seasoned.. But like Rough H says 20" would be ideal due to losing 5" -ish to the nose bar clamp.

 

we have milled cheesnut with a 440  25" bar Iirc. and a few other small things with a 036  which was wearing an 18"  bar. The 036 was a more than bit underpowered . The 440 was better irc.

both saws were using std 3/8 and 10* so you using a 3/8 lo pro would be better.

 

the only thing  I can say is if the length of bar is an issue with the wood and what the saw can take  IE it's not long enough.

is to do the first cut deep enough so when you turn the wood 90* your bar is able to cut through the wood.

as for the rest like power of electric to fuel  idk..but I do know noodling requires less power compared to ripping. 

prolly best to try and find someone with all the kit and a small saw. And see if it can do what you think you will need.

 

cheers

[Britt woodworker]

Thanks very much to both for your useful comments.  As you suggest, turning the wood after the first cut is the  procedure to follow to reduce diameter to enable the kit to slice the rest.   It would be good to talk to other folk who may have tried this. 

[agrimog]

to get a realistic idea about power requirments, logk at logosols electric saw. they start at 5kw, and 3phase at that

you would be better  looking at a bandsaw setup

[billpierce]

Don't mean to be a downer but it will be a seriously painful process milling with a small electric saw. I have a 2000w husqvarna electric saw which I really really wouldn't consider milling with. It is awful on anything over 6 inch.

Can you move the bits of wood to somewhere you can use a 90cc or larger saw?

[Rough Hewn]

A 36" mill is for a 90cc saw not a small electric saw.
It just won't work.

[Daniël Bos]

A Stihl ms660 (the standard recommend for your type of use) has 5.1Kw of power
The Makita electric 2.0....

This isn't the end of the story though, electric motors have much better torque curves than petrol ones.
If I were you, I'd ignore the above and just have a go...
The saw isn't heaps expensive, and will have reasonable resale value on eBay if it sucks.

Just get on with it, it'll work.
It'll most likely be very slow, but what is too slow for you only you will know.
Let us know how you get on though!

[Rough Hewn]

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

[Rough Hewn]

Get a petrol saw if you intend to mill regularly.
At least 60cc.
Good luck
[emoji106]