MS290 sprocket & oiler questions

[Khriss]

( NOT acceptable on any Official work sites now , I might add )

[ihatesaws]

4 hours ago, spudulike said:

I would fit a new sprocket as using a worn one will wear the drivers of the chain, the tension changes as the chain moves from worn to less worn parts of the sprocket and will stretch the chain unevenly. The sprocket is a consumable part and should be changed if worn - when else would you consider changing it - another chain or two and it would resemble a farmers saw!

 

I am a farmer!!!!!!

Thanks to all. I might try thinning the oil a bit.

[spudulike]

Ah, it has all come clear now, like a fog has lifted Done a few farmers saws, mostly wrecks and needed serious attention. Nothing against farmers saws but they do use their saws to hell and back

[ihatesaws]

I got a new sprocket from china with a new bearing.  I had the whole saw apart again due to an air leak where the top and bottom go together and I saw that there is a screw on the oil pump to increase the flow of oil.You can actually turn it through a hole from underneath the saw without taking anything apart.  The oiling might be the best thing working now on the saw as after putting it back together I'm having trouble getting it to idle consistently without  adjusting the screws.  The revs at idle just keep dropping till it dies. I  pressure and vacuum tested it twice after putting it back together and it passes so I guess  it must be the screws.  I'll look at it again.  I have a question about the ignition coil.  I had to reset the gap when I put the flywheel back on and one of the two screws keeps rotating and doesnt get fully tight.  Is it screwing into metal underneath the coil?  I used loctite 243 once before but when I loosened it again it didnt feel like it had been locked tight.  Btw do you use loctite on the four cylinder screws?

[spudulike]

The screw on the coil is straight in to plastic - you can try fitting a bigger screw but as long as the coil isn't shifting, it may be OK. No Loctite needed on cylinder screws.

The idling problem almost sounds like the saws carb is significantly worn. My advice is to set the carb at one turn out on the H&L screw and then set the idle speed. If this still dies, unwind the L screw 1/8th - 1/4 turn out and increase the idle to suit and if this doesn't sort it, the carb or saw has other issues.

[ihatesaws]

I got the saw idling okay again but after doing a few hours of cutting I think the oiling problem is still there. The bar is getting very hot, makes a sound, looks dry and oil consumption is low.  When I take the chain off I always find some mushy crud in the bar groove which I remove.  Without the bar there is a good flow of oil out the hole on the saw.  Could bar/chain wear be the problem.  I can  push the cutters from side to side on the bar. They could well be worn. The chain wouldn't pull the oil along the bar so a mass of oil and sawdust builds up in the groove which blocks further oil coming out of the saw??? 

[ihatesaws]

I had a look at the 18" stihl rollomatic 3003 000 6117 bar on the saw and on the bottom the rails are definitely rounded over and mushrooming out so I suppose I need a new bar. Are there cheaper bars than stihl that are any good?  I suppose I need a new chain as well.

[peatff]

2 hours ago, ihatesaws said:

I had a look at the 18" stihl rollomatic 3003 000 6117 bar on the saw and on the bottom the rails are definitely rounded over and mushrooming out so I suppose I need a new bar. Are there cheaper bars than stihl that are any good?  I suppose I need a new chain as well.

If there's still plenty of depth in the groove just file the edges flat and take the rough off, it's common practise to dress the bar with a flat file.

[ihatesaws]

Thanks but the bar seems well worn in general. It's probably the original bar that came with the saw in 2002. It overheated alot in the past due to no oil when I knew even less than I know now. The groove gap looks like 2mm rather than the 1.6mm it should be which accounts for the wobble from side to side. I'd need a machine to squeeze it back together and the rails might not be parallel afterwards.  I think I should just get a new bar. I see some cheaper brands for €20-30 but the stihl bar costs €50.

[htb]

Theres one on the bay at moment at £44

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STIHL-GENUINE-GUIDE-BAR-18-45cm-3-8-1-6mm-063-66DL-MS290-MS310-MS311-/282832855238?clk_rvr_id=1498589726559&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=twenga&utm_campaign=twenga&utm_param=eyJlcyI6MCwicyI6OTcyMDIzNywiY2kiOiIwMzFjNjRkNmQxMTc4MDZjMzA3YjRkMTliYjdjNjRkMyIsImkiOiIyODI4MzI4NTUyMzgiLCJ0cyI6MTUyMzY0MTczNiwidiI6Mywic28iOjE1MDAsImMiOjg1OTE1fQ%3D%3D&rmvSB=true