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Conifer jammed circular saw blade


Ashes_Firewood
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Sometimes when cutting fresh sappy wood resin coats the sides of the blade which causes friction as it goes through the cut. This in turn causes the blade to get hot and loose tension and wobble in the cut which causes more friction, more heat and so on. to prevent this use a sharp blade with proper set  (if not TCT). run at the correct speed, if the blade has been overheated get it retensioned by a saw doctor, and last of all clean the resin from the blade regularly using a solvent like pe*rol. And don't force the saw through the cut

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10 hours ago, Ashes_Firewood said:

Also made the mistake of forgetting my gloves so my hands got covered in black sap.

 

Am I best stacking this outside somewhere to wash all the sap out or will it be ok stacked in my log store for a couple of years? Plenty of airflow in there, it just won't get any rain on it.

I put mine outside for a minimum of 2 years before cutting it. The problem is the sap oozes from the cuts and then eventually solidifies. Then when you take the logs indoors you knock off the bits of solid sap which warms up in the house and turn back into glue.

I think leylandii logs are brilliant but the sap does my head in. Two years + outside in the weather before cutting and storing cures the problem.

Two years under cover doesn't cure it in my experience.

 

Unless you are not too bothered by the sticky patches all over the place of course, some folk aren't.

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I think we all have suffered from the wood becoming jammed at one time or another, usually due to it being fed too fast, blade not as sharp as it should be or certain types of timber.

I used to try and knock it out with a large hammer which was awkward on the Palax but now I find it is very much easier to use a log peavey and turn it gently upwards.  The log has always come out so far with little resistance.  I only need to use the small Stihl peavey on the lever tool.

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