Opinions on what constitutes a climbing saw

[Robert Lavin]

Hello,

 

I'm on the lookout for a saw to use climbing but, being new to this game, I'm after some thoughts and opinion from the collective Arbtalk mind.

 

Top-handle saws seem to be a popular choice but I've also had suggested to me that a small rear-handled saw (think 12" MS 171/181) will be perfectly adequate.

 

Any thoughts or experiences out there?

 

I'm looking to buy used hence the question really. If money were no object then I'd just go out and buy a new top-handle but I'm not there yet.

 

On a related note, anyone got something suitable that they're looking to move on? Doesn't have to be a runner; happy to fettle.

 

Thanks,

 

Rob.

[Stubby]

A top handled saw is the preferred choice of most until you get into bigger wood on a take down for example.  For light pruning quite a few rate the lightweight Sthil Ms 150 with a short bar .  I think you will need to show climbing and ariel  use of a saw tickets before a dealer will sell you one . Not law but a recommendation .

[spudulike]

A climbing saw will be able to be able to be operated with a single hand and not have a handle to the rear of the saw like pretty much all ground saws apart from vintage saws like the Stihl 009 that are a halfway house with the handle midway between the top and rear. The handle will be mounted above the saw (Top Handled) and have the typical carry handle protruding from the side of the top handle as an addition and not as a separate handle bar as on most rear handle saws.

You can buy a top handle saw second-hand legally but generally need to purchase new from a dealer face to face.

The top handle is deemed more dangerous as it can be operated by one hand leaving the other able to be cut and also as both your hands are much closer together in normal operation of the saw giving less control of the machine. 

 

 

[Robert Lavin]

18 minutes ago, spudulike said:

A climbing saw will be able to be able to be operated with a single hand and not have a handle to the rear of the saw like pretty much all ground saws apart from vintage saws like the Stihl 009 that are a halfway house with the handle midway between the top and rear. The handle will be mounted above the saw (Top Handled) and have the typical carry handle protruding from the side of the top handle as an addition and not as a separate handle bar as on most rear handle saws.

You can buy a top handle saw second-hand legally but generally need to purchase new from a dealer face to face.

The top handle is deemed more dangerous as it can be operated by one hand leaving the other able to be cut and also as both your hands are much closer together in normal operation of the saw giving less control of the machine. 

 

 

Ok, thanks. So it's the ability to operate it one-handed that's the key? ...and essential?

Edited August 10, 2017 by Robert Lavin

[stihlmadasever]

Saw choice is totally dependant on what your needs are.

Obvious choice would be top handled saw if you've been trained to use it in tree.I say this because too many people who have no training use a top handled saw one handed..dont...its dodgey.

With a rear handled saw you have to use both hands.

For me its the 150 for small stuff,onto the husky 346 then a 440 or 66 in the bigger wood.

You could use a ms 180/181 as a replacement for the ms200/201 top handled saws.

[stihlmadasever]

5 minutes ago, Robert Lavin said:

Ok, thanks. So it's the ability to operate it one-handed that's the key? ...and essential?

By this statement im sure you have no training in using top handled chainsaws until you have dont use em.

Get yourself a little 2nd hand ms180 theyre great gutsy saws and very ergonomical to use

Edited August 10, 2017 by stihlmadasever
Mispelling

[Robert Lavin]

19 minutes ago, stihlmadasever said:

By this statement im sure you have no training in using top handled chainsaws until you have dont use em.

Get yourself a little 2nd hand ms180 theyre great gutsy saws and very ergonomical to use

 

...and you'd be right although training is on the way and I'm trying to get my head around what to look for afterwards.

 

The question was geared more towards whether a light, rear-handled saw is practical whilst up a tree.

 

Thanks.

Edited August 10, 2017 by Robert Lavin

[stihlmadasever]

11 minutes ago, Robert Lavin said:

 

...and you'd be right although training is on the way and I'm trying to get my head around what to look for afterwards.

 

The question was geared more towards whether a light, rear-handled saw is practical whilst up a tree.

 

Thanks.

Very much so,little rear handled saws are great for in tree work before you've received your top handled training, like i said earlier you cant go wrong with a stihl ms 180 or a stihl 211 if your need a little more grunt.

[Robert Lavin]

Thanks for your thoughts.

[stewmo]

21 hours ago, stihlmadasever said:

Very much so,little rear handled saws are great for in tree work before you've received your top handled training, like i said earlier you cant go wrong with a stihl ms 180 or a stihl 211 if your need a little more grunt.

I thought the training in the use of a saw up a tree is not specifically related to top handles. I'm pretty sure when I trained CS39 was titled Use of a Chainsaw from a Rope and Harness. Yes on the course we used top handled saws, but to say you would be fine to use any saw other than a top handle up a tree without the appropriate training is IMO not accurate. 

 

Do your training first. There are many things to consider when working at height with any kind of saw.

 

Then what you want is a light versitile and powerful saw - top handled are the easiest to use in tight situations but as stihlmadasever said a small rear handled saws are also fine