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Posted
if he's using force to get the saw through the wood its not sharp anyway.

 

I would say it wasn't the sharpest chain when I tried it, but it was sharp enough to produce chip rather than dust. He's asked me to source a new bar and chain so I'm thinking Rob D is the man for that, but I think it might be his cutting technique as much as his chain sharpening that needs looking into otherwise the same thing might happen again. Could it be too much lateral movement creating stress on the bar and chain because he isn't using the dogs to keep everything nicely in line?

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Posted

people do funny things with saws. As a rule of thumb if he's putting any force into it then the chains not sharp and he could potentially be steering it anywhere depending on his posture for example. The chain should glide through the wood of its own accord

Posted

A few years ago i dislocated some fingers and my saws started cutting like a bannana as i couldn't really grip the file with 1 hand.

It's a real pita when working with bigger timber when ur saw cuts don't match.

 

It does sound like he's just took it to extreme's and the forcing won't help.

Check if he's took the rakers down, amazing how many folk (esp farmers) have no idea about rakers.

I usually tell novice's to give the chain a few extra rubs with there bad hand until they get used to doing it, s they get more experienced should only need the same ammount

Posted
the next thing is to make sure the rails hold the chain without too much roll from side to side.

 

If there is a lot of roll, you can sometimes peen the rails back in to shape by literally bashing them together carefully from both sides. You have to be careful not to get any pinch points but it can be done!

 

Or you can buy a new bar!

I tend to do it the other way around Steve, that way the rails are always parallel before grinding.

I have different thickness hand/hack/ band saw blade to use as spacers between the rails so I don't over cook it when bashing:sneaky2:

slim

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