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Chainsaw Bar Refurbishment


Bustergasket
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I don't know of any company that does this, It's usually DIY The cost would probably be near or in excess of a replacement & you would still end up with a used bar. I guess it would be worth wile on a Sugi, Tsmura, Cannon, etc.but if cared for these last for a long time

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I would have thought replacing the nose sprocket ought to be economic, it's just driving out a few rivets, swapping out components, riveting - 5 minute job. Rest of the world doesn't see it that way though :001_rolleyes:

If the drive links are bottoming out, you've had your money's worth :lol:

 

bmp01

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What is there to do apart from dress the bar, clear the groove and make sure it's not pinching ? If the drive links are bottoming the bar is shot isn't it ?

 

I can see it both ways, but I have seen a machine that will do a super job of reworking the bar, and it will also grind the channel deeper, appreciate its a delicate operation but iam thinking 20 thou, thinking more for harvester bars and processors.

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I can see it both ways, but I have seen a machine that will do a super job of reworking the bar, and it will also grind the channel deeper, appreciate its a delicate operation but iam thinking 20 thou, thinking more for harvester bars and processors.

 

If you ground the bar depth wouldn't the chain be too tight on the sprocket?

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If you ground the bar depth wouldn't the chain be too tight on the sprocket?

 

If anything it will be too loose as you are effectively making the bar smaller in every plane . Might have to loose one driver ....

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I can see the value, but I don't know of anyone doing it. Most bars are fatter in the belly than at the ends so it would be possible to re-grind the groove and get extra life. Say an extra 2mm deeper would give a lot of life and not make any real difference to the profile, although it wouldn't work so well on parallel sided bars. I can see possible issues as they do also tend to wear wider in the groove, particularly where the chain feeds in from the drive sprocket, which is not possible to address with a re-grind.

 

Alec

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You would only be talking 20 thou depth, you would just tension as normal, the pitch would be the same, this was standard practice when jack was a lad, appreciate there is little argument to support not replacing the bar, but if it's done properly i really don't see any great shakes, unless the new bars are laser welded in the root, in which case i can see it may not be the best way forward

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You would only be talking 20 thou depth, you would just tension as normal, the pitch would be the same, this was standard practice when jack was a lad, appreciate there is little argument to support not replacing the bar, but if it's done properly i really don't see any great shakes, unless the new bars are laser welded in the root, in which case i can see it may not be the best way forward

 

But, but....

So 20 thou, 0.5 mm - how much extra life is that going to get you?

Compare it with a new bar, how much metal have you got before you run out of clearance, got to be 2-3 mm minimum??

 

In economic terms you've got;

Cost for bar rework to get you 0.5 mm life verse Cost of new bar with 2mm life...so in component costs alone the rework has to cost 1/4 of a new bar.

Cant see that happening.

 

bmp01

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