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Dead welly


Peter
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would you have knocked a wedge in reg from the back cut side to get a cut right through then? i like the idea of the angled cut though, to stop the chunk moving when lifting.:001_smile:

 

Stevie, If the boom and chokers are in the right spot, the wedge shouldn’t play a part, mainly its there as back-up.

 

It would be pretty hollow for me to say what I would’ve done because I wasn’t there living that moment, Pete was. You can only do what feels right for you at the time.

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cheers reg, i am not asking what you would do in petes situation:blushing:, he did that no bother:biggrin:, and i hope he understands why i am asking YOU what you would do, i have only ever lifted stuff with a single chain, and i would always start my cut on the hook side so when i got to the other side it would be lifting it off the say, thats why i liked the angled cut idea, to stop it swinging toward you, so with 2 chains in should lift evenly, gotcha.:thumbup1:

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cheers reg, i am not asking what you would do in petes situation:blushing:, he did that no bother:biggrin:, and i hope he understands why i am asking YOU what you would do, i have only ever lifted stuff with a single chain, and i would always start my cut on the hook side so when i got to the other side it would be lifting it off the say, thats why i liked the angled cut idea, to stop it swinging toward you, so with 2 chains in should lift evenly, gotcha.:thumbup1:

 

An angled cut could also shock load the crane, if it was undertensioned and the piece slid off. Not good

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In all my time I've never done any cranework. I've always wondered exactly what cut you do and do you hide below the cut so the enormous lump of tree doesn't get you? etc

 

Used to be afraid I might be in that position and not know what to do.

 

Hence all this detailed stuff about the cut and the chains is very interesting and educational. Its answering these things. Keep it up chaps.

 

And nice work peter, very brave!!

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An angled cut could also shock load the crane, if it was undertensioned and the piece slid off. Not good

 

i am talking about the second cut pete, Mike mentioned it ages ago and then huck told me about it, i am sure thats what peter was doing. first cut level as usual, when the saw gets to the point where it needs to be taken out and cut from the other side, dont come in level, cut in at an angle to meet the first cut, all the wood has been cut, but the angled part stops the timber coming towards you:001_smile:

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Stevie, there are so many variables, which is why I’m wary about answering specifics on the subject….I don’t want anyone assuming a single method is right for all circumstances….especially when you’re dealing with logs that a capable of reducing a person to a mere red streak down the side of a trunk.

 

In general though - two cuts as opposed to one, whether matching or stepped carry a greater risk of shock loading, whether under or over tensioned i.e. when the log is released it happens very suddenly….and things can get really bad if you further haven’t made allowances for deflection.

 

Don’t get me wrong, step or matching cuts have there place, I use them often but never when approaching a WLL. If you still must, then the unequal proportions of the opposing cuts, + the choker position is all vital to releasing the log smoothly. Minimum effort, maximum leverage in other words.

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i am talking about the second cut pete, Mike mentioned it ages ago and then huck told me about it, i am sure thats what peter was doing. first cut level as usual, when the saw gets to the point where it needs to be taken out and cut from the other side, dont come in level, cut in at an angle to meet the first cut, all the wood has been cut, but the angled part stops the timber coming towards you:001_smile:

 

My misunderstanding.

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