kram

Looks identical to the treehog, same sticker, spec and everything at half the price. Thanks for that, ordered a few. My oldest e2e prussik is starting to wear out and wont hold me without extra wrap, then the friction is a bit too much. Took Fedex quite a while but 5th free battery arrived.

The one I mentioned on the first page, originally cut Nov 2023 but last week inspected and trimmed to the banch collar. It was weeping before but the previous rain had washed it off for this pic. I got a fresh pic today. This is the bend that I assume snapped when it was young. Did a reasonable amout this afternoon, not started the back corner yet but happy with the house side.

The wound has been weeping a lot since the stub was trimmed back, quite wet.

I've only driven a mini digger Bobcat E10, builder guy thought it would be good for stumps but it was poo, it wanted to tip over for fun. Can you lift much with that before it wants to throw on its side? Bet its great fun. Needs a pair of these 2.7 Inch Medium Googly Eyes Self Adhesive 7cm Big Wiggle Eyes Large Sticky Eyes for Party Halloween Decor Door Christmas Trees Cleaning Robot VR Goggles Classroom DIY Craft Projects (Pack of 6) : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy 2.7 Inch Medium Googly Eyes Self Adhesive 7cm Big Wiggle Eyes Large Sticky Eyes for Party Halloween...

Yes, said to him that I will inspect yearly, I am quite happy that he keeps it.

Started, wanted to get some weight off at the anchor so topped that stem first. Lowering as one piece was not an option, I had to fold the tops over and send it down small bits at a time, so it took ages. I didnt get to the rear corner towards house yet.

Finger amputations are about to become a lot more common from tomorrow! While my chinese ones are great, useful tools, there is no way I'd have them for sale to the general public in a supermarket! Good price but suspect it will be shite. The spec lists a max of 15mm for hardwood where as mine will generally do 30mm+ without much issue. Even so, great for fruit tree pruning.

Seems I have tore the rubber av mount, 14 in this diagram, but its not listed and no part number. Its an old saw, is there any others I should replace at the same time? Handle Assembly for Stihl 020 WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK The Handle Assembly for Stihl 020 Petrol Chainsaws is designed to provide stability and control during operation. This assembly includes components... How did it happen? Cutting a big hollow lime stump, about 14" thickness. It had destroyed my 20" chain on the 372 due to hidden dirt and gravel grown into the stump so I stuck a cheapy blunt chain on the 020T and gave it a good sharpen. I may have took down one of the rakers a bit too far as I could feel it once a revolution.

Your previous wording about tip tying was an awful way to describe that. I'd say a multiplier of 11 is greatly over simplifying it, but perhaps its close enough for polyester arb rigging ropes. I would say if its goong to be that bad, some shock absorbsion should be included inn the system, or the rope wont last long. That is not swinging into tension. Consider an object dropped straight down onto a static rope. It has no other vector and can only bounce back up, or snap the rope. As the rope becomes tensioned, the force increases rapidly. An item thrown to the side, as it becomes tensioned, only the distance is constrained by the rope but it can still rotate around the anchor point, velocity increases rapidly until it reaches the end of swing or hits the stem. Tops have soft leafy brush and great for absorbinng that energy.

Not a concern currently but in a year or two I imagine it could spread quite far in. There were two small limbs that went straight across neighbours garden and they wanted them off. The owner and the neighbour on the other side wanted the big one off, it looks like it fills the hole but it came out a long way, I remember it being more horizontal than the photo suggests. Found an old pic from March 23, so not fully green. This is last week. The right most limb I am thinking of bringing right down to the first major growth rather than the V union above. If it is eventually removed, you can be certain something will be planted in its place. We are also right behind a birch woodland. There were planted around the same time, perhaps 1975-1980. Unless its big heavy logs, cut and chuck is somewhat faster in my experience and also avoids more cutting on the ground. I havent bought any more gear yet, rigging will be off steel biners, slings tied with the rigging rope ends. Seems I lost my blue dmm sling last week. Might use a pulley on the first anchor to spread it better to the main stem. Also might use a Kong eight for the friction this time. Think I'd prefer my climbing lines up top and out of the way. Drop zone is better to the right. Interesting stuff, cant quite visulise it but I like having the tops swinging into tension rather than dropping straight down.

I like the treehog prussiks however inspect any new ones as they were getting burnt in the heat shrink process, I had to return a couple that were crispy just after the cover. Got an email from Makita, should be recieving my 5th free battery in the next day or two, this ones from the uc029 pruning saw.

Thanks for spotting that, I was looking at a related fungi and got the name mixed up, the two birch fungi have the betulina family name. Green would be my anchor points and top those first. Orang eline is roughtly where I'd reduce to if keeping it. Everything above orange line as one peice tops. Secondary rigging point on main stem and primary on each stem at roughtly the hieght shown. Everything below orange I could peice out, if removing it.

I rigged out the other small ones over the garage, the 3rd picture was done in two peices. Quite a lot had enough lean away to free fell it. VID-20251008-WA0003(1).mp4 I was a bit annoyed that the stem missed my carefully positioned brash pile, big hole in the grass but easily fixed.. VID-20251008-WA0005.mp4

Difficult from a few photos but I'd be interested to know what others would quote. This is for a friend and wont be charged for it, other than to get my mate down to chip and tip. How? Doesnt seem too difficult the main risk below is a lot of potted plants, which could be moved, a nice Acer. Set high anchor and rig for the tops. Once the rope angle gets a bit better I'd be happy piecing it down in small lumps. Small garden but good enough drop zone in the middle and neighbouring garden. I believe Im the only person to have climbed it atleast in recent history. Theres some low wounds that had been done by ladder or silky pole, the rest appears to be from self pruning.

From that angle the lower branches hide the rear stem..? Heres some other pics of it. The rigged video was the right stem above where the green rope anchors.

The relatively large lime that I started dismantling a week ago, "small job" for a friend. I've been doing it it half day at a time as I havent felt like doing early starts recently! I was intending to fell the stem, which was too wide for my bar. Due to the rubbish and poor escape route I opted to cut the sides narrower so It could be done from one side. I then discovered it were hollow and I wouldnt get a proper hinge in the direction of lean. Its a heavy lump, so that only left chogging it down in small peices using spikes and a ladder. Currently looks like this, with the stump to come down as low as possible and all the logs cut smaller for firewood, except the two large arch sections that they want as garden furniture. Going back after lunch and should finish it today.

Thanks very helpful replies. Its a beautiful tree and amazing to watch in the wind. Yes birch do seem to have poor barriers to decay. There is another very old wound further down that goes in quite a way filled with frass/ soil although doesnt seem to have soft rot in the surrounding wood. I imagine I know the answer, but is there any chemical or other treatment to make conditions unfavourable for the soft rot fungus, without also killing the tree?

This tree is in a relatively small garden and grows over the two neighbouring gardens. At a few meters up it splits into 5 or more stems, I assume it may have been topped when it was young. Its a nice tree but in the wrong place. I recently suggested to the owner that it is reduced quite hard, 30-50% off the upper canopy but to leave the lower as is. Before stepping up into the union I noticed some bare cambium and reaction wood growth? Theres been strong winds recently. In Nov 23' I removed quite a large low branch that was going across to the neighbours. He was aware that large cuts on birch are not ideal. We noticed it did not seem to be callousing and had a brown weep, so I went up to inspect it. My original cut was not quite to the branch collar but it has been callousing all around hidden under the bark, it was a steeper angle so I trimmed the stub back. I got a face full of wet vomit-like soft rotting wood chips. If the soft rot progresses I think it will not take long to compromise the 5 way union which is not far above. I am unsure to suggest complete removal and to replant something else. If it became unsafe to climb, a mewp would not be able to get anywhere close and would need to be a large skylift type that can span 4 gardens from the road, if it could even fit down the road, at greatly increased expense. Should it be removed or reduced and how much?

What you've done is air layering, a common method to make a new independant from a branch of an established tree. It tells me your graft may not have taken. If nutrients are not getting down to the roots it will encourage root growth at the end of the cambium where its been ringed. If the graft was successful, the roots may be a secondary result of it being covered. I'd suggest carefully snip off the new root growth and check the graft and leave it uncovered.

I'm not planning to splice them for rigging, if that was your meaning. Working by myself is not the plan but learning is always good. I can see a lot of advantage to having the friction in the tree, it will reduce the 2:1 advantage that would otherwise double the force on the anchor. 3 strand is not listed in many arb shops, I can only see it here. What do you use? Marlow 3 Strand Lowering Rope 16mm - Radmore & Tucker WWW.RADMORETUCKER.CO.UK Lightweight, cost effective 3 strand lowering lines manufactured from staple spun polypropylene. The hairy feel of the rope improves grip and abrasion...

They dont seem very common over here. I've never seen one, but a few arboretums list them so might be worth a visit. Theres a few uk nuserys with them listed if you wanted to buy saplings.

So back onto the subject, which rope should I buy? I am thinking a 16mm 50m. I got one of the arb surplus rope end bags, it has a good sample of 5m rigging ropes. English braids 14, 16 and 20mm, look decent. Stein Omega 12, seems ok but only 12mm Stein Omega 16 and 20mm. Very soft cover, nice on the hands as a pull rope but cant see it being very abrasion resistant.

Ah, I did start replying but it got lost when I replied to someone else.. I even illistrated a crude picture! In the tree I estimated each small section and added up the weights. Afterwards on the ground I half arsed attempted to lift it by hand, heavier than expected by couldnt say with any accuracy whilst theres logs on it. Blue are slings, yellow steel biners, red the lowering rope, and purple is the unintended path that the rope fell, reducing the swing I had intended to give it, adding a lot of friction.

Its nice to be able to clip two carabiners on a ring if your working with two ropes, allows swapping between bridges easier and no real disadvantage that I've found.