kram

Thanks to @green heart I have been converted - the Echo DCS2500 style clips are nice for high clipping and stowing the saw, so I've made a few for my saws. I decided theres no need for the lanyard to have a massive girth hitched loop, as the clip removes from the saw easily enough. This makes it slightly longer, less bulky and easier to clip. Its not the neatest thing as I was learning how to use sewing machine. This Stein lanyard gained a tight biner eye. It came with a twisted loop on the saw end so I cut one side and sewed it as a flat loop (hand sewn whipping twine for the strength). Not pretty but its strong enough. On the clone I have this longer green lanyard. It didnt come with a stowing ring so a while back, I added one. Today I added whipping twine to sew a tight eye at the saw end. Set up sewing machine to stitch the huge loop flat.

@AHPP I have tried to look it up and I have asked a few shops too... @Mick Dempsey Thats odd, I've asked them before about having a larger splice to fit some climbing item, but I didnt order it.. they said it was ok.

Yeah very easy to splice 3 strand. That brings an unrelated question. If one looks in shops at rigging ropes, all of the spliced onces have very large eyes - much bigger than a biner. Whats the intended purpose or reasoning? @AHPP ? The reason I ask, I might splice one end of this, One end for biner and slings, other end for knotting. Any reason not to be a normal small eye like a climbing rope?

I've not used it for rigging but its awful for tying knots or coiling up, extra bulky. A cinched biner is the best way to use it?

Last pic has a face and beard, almost like a garden gnome.

Works out £91 delivered and took about 8 days to arrive. 25cc JonCutter G2511 Gasoline Chainsaw Power Head With 12inch Saw Chain and Guide Bar from China manufacturer - Farmertec WWW.FARMERTEC.COM 25cc JonCutter G2511 Gasoline Chainsaw Power Head With 12inch Saw Chain and Guide Bar offered by China manufacturer Farmertec. Buy 25cc...

Nope its rubbish. A tree surgeon I know, broke his ms151t and bought the 18v Dewalt, no power and not many cuts before it was flat. Ruined his day with him having to stop climbing and do ground work with big saw - he was supposed to be topping a tall conni hedge.

He asked about battery ones, for cutting 4" saplings. 2511 is a very good saw, I prefer the clone, I have both..

If petrol is acceptable, then I would go with a clone 2511 with a carving bar and 3/8" FC chain. I planned to do a comparison yesterday, against the Echo, but ran out of time. The clone runs significantly better for only slightly more weight, a better stop switch too. Fires up every pull and never cuts out between cuts/off throttle like the Echo does. A while back I did a comparason between the Makita uc029 40v and a Fakita 18v. While they both do the job, the Makita is significantly quicker and a 4ah battery lasts ages, even cutting 6" or bigger. Fakita pruning saw and Makita UC029.mp4 However I do not like the .325 speedcut nano chain, and the tensioner constantly loosens.

Other groundy, I got the video on my way back from brush dragging. Customer wants all the brush chipped into the woodland so theres about 6 big brush stacks ready for chipping about 30 meters away. He'll need to hire a tracked chipper for that. Theres quite a lot so I suggested 2 days hire, its about £450 from the local shop. The other option was drag it to the driveway and chip there, but the grass was turning to wet boggy mud and would have been destroyed by it.

Stein 16mm offcut from an Arbsurplus rope bag.

Theres two small ponds of stagnant smelly water and I dont fancy a swim, not too much space that way, and I dont have any winching kit. One log, got a slight nudge and rolled into the pond and I havent yet worked out how to retrieve it - could likely reach it with a sharp hook tool as its not too heavy. He did take some larger peices VID_20260131_105942.mp4

Bit of a long story... A local arb was on holidays and got me a solo job tidying up a woodland, with a big poplar for us to do when he got back. It went badly, he wouldnt climb higher, he just wanted to smash big peices from low down. He tried negative rigging when it could easily have been positive and controlled, wouldnt listen to me. Tennis court fence got smashed, also his ladder smashed, he ran away. I stayed, wasted an extra day fixing the fence. Fixed, not perfect but customer is happy. Anyway after the repair, I got paid for the days I was owed (not for the fence). Customer had some trust in me, so I recommended somone else who I know is excellent. He has no fear of climbing higher and he is much quicker than the other guy. Small peices and controlled. That brings us to today, not quite finished, the stem left to peice down and just me today. Not very high, I thought ladder would be a pain so left it at home, used spikes instead. I prefer spikes to ladders! Stem was about 32", perhaps 40" at the top. 28" bar on the g372. Thankfully the quote was to leave the logs as I cant shift all of that by myself! I did say I'd cut them smaller and tidy it up a bit.

Makita was one of the first to do them - the small hand held and cabled types, with a horrendous price tag and small jaw capacity too! They were not the telescopic types though, just hand held. Chinese ones have better capacity.

And some eyes on the grabber! Amazon.co.uk WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK

You cant admit your wrong then. Rhino is a HMS, it simply means it has a large rope basket without being excessively offset, there are many styles of HMS, many are symmetrical. That is what HMS means. Yes I did google the German.

Another one from yesterday, rotten chesnut, stem filled with soil and not much wood holding it up. Other guy had already topped the brush off the day before and left it for me to peice down the stem.

Incorrect, you describe an offset D which is the opposite of an HMS. Rhino and phantom are both HMS carabiners. Halbmastwurf sicherung translates as Munter hitch belay carabiner. Halb= half, mastwurf = mast hitch, sicherung = belay. From the Shadow HMS Note the last line, its designed to take three clove hitches. The slight asymmetry will not cause any problems.

Very odd! Has that been extended or has the rear most axle fallen off?

AmericanO just has a massive ANSI gate, I dont think its any bigger. Rhino same I dont think its much different A HMS is what you want - they are intended for a munter belay so have more space.

Another ash, trying not to squash the conni below. It was also good to test the clip on my 2511. It works very nicely for one hand stowing.

Removing a rotten ash ivy covered stem that had fallen across. Then ladder up a chesnut that had already been stripped and peice down the stem. Havent been using my spikes much so took me a while to get used to it on the learning stem. Boss called a nice early finish 1pm so went to get some lunch, everything soaked. Tomorrow might be dry so ropes can dry out then.

Or a slow growing tree. Japanese maple or an oak would likely progress slower than the rot and could become quite an interesting one over 20 years or so.

The current best practise is to leave it as is - the tree has healed over the original wound. If you cut a slot or drill holes, that only adds a fresh wound that is surrounded by already rotting material, which will cause further infection and rot. A less harmful alternative could be a peice of cloth in the hole which will wick out the water. Note that being wet may prevent some fungi and insects that would thrive if it were a dry hole.

I've used the same principle on a job last year, smaller stumps but access meant I couldnt get any machine in there and would have been smashing roots out with an axe. Expensive driveway to avoid damaging. I used a large auger turbo wood drill bit in the Makita cordless. Yes they hit stone and blunted, but saved a lot of time. Sharpened easily enough. However if you have a heavy machine, you could mount a 50cc engine auger to it (or hydrualic motor unit) and use a carbide tipped auger drill, same idea as the dipperfox.