kram

50% more power, but out of the box it will be set up for longer bars with more cutters in the wood, where more torque is needed. I imagine a larger sprocket, one or two teeth up, would be required to get the chain speed where you'd see the power for smaller stuff.

I dont have a before pic, but a reasonable spreading conifer with thick ivy up the main and dead right stem. Interesting as it had a big hazard beam crack on the furthest spreading left stem, I wanted to get a decent amount of weight off that before I tied in. Mostly an easy drop zone, spear cut all the rear brush as nothing important behind. The new Meteor cyl kit is working well! I had some issue with it bogging but each time the air filter was clogged and had to bang it clean. There was a very dusty dead stem but seemed to clog excessively fast. Long steep garden on this and I wouldnt have wanted to be a groundie, perhaps should have cut them smaller! Cutting the low stump was exhausting at the end. Jobs like this I would like a 3120XP as it should be 50% quicker cutting the big bits.

A bit of hedge trimming. Used the Makita UH006.

Would you have a carb for a CS340/CS380 in there? Or a rebuild kit? I replaced the leaky accelerator pump O ring but when reassembled its leaking fuel somewhere.

The split is past saving. The subsequent photos show soil/rot/fungus/included bark in the split, so its unlikely to callous up nicely whatever you do - it is destined to be a rot pocket/habitat.

Cut off the ripped limb to minimise the bark peeling off, as that will only make it worse. Theres not much you can do for rot, perhaps get as much of the soil out as you can. Looks like a very substantial part of the tree ripped out. Do you have a photo of the rest? Apple trees are very commonly in bad shape, most I have seen are rotten.

Not since my inherited graphite spray can lost its propellant. I also have a huge tub of Rocol Moly disulphide tho I wouldnt put that on or near climbing kit, just incase it reacts in some unexpected way.

I disagree it doesnt take much dirt to gum up a carabiner. A mate had a new DMM triple lock that wasnt closing, a squirt of oil instantly fixed it, but it was sent back only because it was new he couldnt trust it. Rinse after as washing up and soap can leave a salt residue and fast corrosion. A squirt or drop of oil is a good thing. Not wd40 but a light machine oil/sewing machine oil/hair clipper oil. I have a compressor but havent turned it on in years. Its buried behind chainsaw stuff in the small standing gap between the lathe.

Looks to have been freshly cut, revealing the inner brown. They are only green where they recieve adequate sunlight and the brown leaf has died off. Leylandii is quite slow to recover but will eventually go green, if it doesnt die off. Its not an ideal hedge tree.

Theres no grown men here, we are tree surgeons.

Generally things are only banned if they become a nuisance. Use the correct gear and dont fall is the answer to that one. Anyway some other suggestions are cricket/golf clubs tho they can be somewhat public. My training and tickets were done at a cricket ground in a small village. They gained some light pruning of the trees and a dead birch felled.

Recreational climbing is a recreation, no difference really to running or riding a bike around a park, the latter is frowned apon if its a busy public area, at the back of my local park has mountain bike trails. You wouldnt want to come across a pair of elderly walkers whilst bombing down a trail, but if you knock somone over in a predomantly pedestrian area - you'd get the book thrown at you. So the back of a publc woodland is quite acceptable. Chance of seeing anyone else is slim, just be sensible about it, be aware of people around you. My first 7 trees were frends and neighbours and removed them, one was a bit of a hazard tree so had help/reassurance with it. Also was November so doing it in the dark after work to make it more interesting. However they were all fairly basic trees. Theres a lot of parks where the grass around trees is kept long, up to knee or hip level thick grass. People and dog walkers will stick to the path. Those trees are ideal for climbing.

Local park woodland, might be hard to find a decent tree for limb walks thats away from paths and busy areas. No saws etc just climbing kit, no one had any issue with it. The park was a conservation area. Never asked permission - leave it tidy and no damage, no spikes and be aware of people nearby. A few roaming walkers didnt look up, didnt see me, and started nosing through what they thought was an abandoned bag until I shouted down ! I'd suggest taking any excess kit in a backpack and bring your rope up well out of reach, if your on your own. A friend owns a large oak so I was playing on that, and it needed deadwooding, so I dropped that for her whilst I was in there. I would not climb any trees overlooking houses or gardens without permission, sadly most of the decent oaks in my area are in residential green spaces. Or drive until you see a nice domestic garden oak. I dare say most owners might allow it if asked nicely and you can inspect/deadwood/light prune for them if they want it.

That was quick! Ordered Sunday from Amazon Japan. Should make the long reach hedger feel about 500g- 1.1kg lighter depending what size battery I use.

Its a sweaty humid day. This is very nice! VID_20250722_191659.mp4 I feel like I have made some progress. Im also amazed at the quantity of leylandii roots remaining. Its been gone 18 months so they are starting to rot and pull out and break a bit easier.

New one today, MP001 tyre pump, £100. No more messing about with cig lighter cables and it should have enough air to seat tyre beads when I swap them myself. No free battery with these tho. I've had a slow leak in one tyre for ages and dont check it nearly often enough. This should help..

Had a spare day so continued with friends garden - its been a slow one. In 2023 I removed 5 leylandii, one of them large, and a dangerous rotten poplar. Earlier this year I stump ground the bigger two out, the smaller ones were done with mattock. Today started levelling. First job was trim it low and chase the small roots, digging with mattock and spreading with rake. Old before pic Once I get the dirt levelled theres a huge slab of concrete after the path, I'll be letting one of her friends shift that and the path, then more levelling. Plan is to get it flat and grass seed growing before autumn.

How much ?!? Heres the requirement from manual, API SJ or better, 5w30. Now in my opinion, its better to change more freqently than to spend on "better" quality or branding. Filters too. This is good stuff, similar price, for 20 litres. I use it in my car and motorbikes. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KS615S6 However it was £28 for 20 litres when i got it. Sometimes there are offers on amazon or ebay.

Perhaps you could lead by example and vaporise yourself?

No thanks, that got turned off in less than half a second.

If he blocks the work, you pay them an amount for the trouble and claim it back frkm the neighbour. If he damages it, its another thing against him for the small claims court. You do the claim for any costs and damages against him. I wouldnt repeadedly rebuild it until the claim is settled. Nothing physical! Most people, bad neighbours included, have some respect for trades who are doing a job, its often enough to shut them up. I've seen some disputes ended that way.

If one side has definative proof of ownership, its no longer a dispute, just a stubbon neighbour that wont accept the fact and perhaps never will. The addition of a proper fence, wall or whatever would reinforce that fact and put an end to any future adverse possesion claim. If the wall or fence becomes intentionally damaged, you can do a small claims against them. Its easier to replace fence or wall than a tree. Worst that can happen is he blocks them from doing the work or commits criminal damage to the new fence after it goes up.

200L over six months works out as a litre a day. A couple of big saws would easily gobble that up. My previous 25L Rotatech oil, with still a couple litres left, was opened Jan '24.

I would suggest, as soon as practical, get some fencers out to put a decent, concrete post 6 ft boundry fence. Let the fencers know in advance about the previous dispute and show the details if needed. Doing the fence yourself could cause the dispute to turn ugly but most bad neighbours will respect a professional doing it. Particually if they are bigger than them.

You have not said what species of tree or its size, thats quite significant for a border and tree dispute. Why does your neighbour want the tree cut? Does he percieve it as blocking light? Perception of danger? What has he put on the TPO application? Is he wanting to side it up to his percieved boundry, top it, crown lift? A photo would answer most of that.. Until then I wonder if your neighbours request is a perfectly reasonable one.