Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Yup I was thinking of that aspect too, but you explained it better.
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Not sure about that? All other brushcutter blade bolts or heads I know of are reverse threaded, (when looking from below) to keep them on. These hex screws are right hand thread. Surely if staying on was a problem, right hand thread (when looking from above) is subject to the same forces as left hand reverse thread (when looking from below)? My head hurts now.
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This jet fit head arrived and it is definitely a copy, but a good one at that. I'd have no issues using this other than the four hex screws are made of very soft metal and I nearly stripped one. I only needed one spring but I'll keep everything else incase I need any other parts. All the other parts look fully interchangeable with the original Oregon head..
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Agreed. To the OP, try a new reputable sparkplug and let us know how you get on. A new plus will have crisp threads (not sure if the one you've used was damaged at the same time as the thread?) plus a stronger spring washer.
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Maybe try a new sparkplug with crisp threads. New sparkplugs will also have a stronger spring washer? Use grease.
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Phenomenal saw and price. I would be interested if I didn't have one already! This would be ideal for someone wanting to get into chainsaw milling. If buying new you would be looking at paying about £1800 for a new Stihl MS 881, bar and chain. Arguably the 088 is better than the 088 for milling due to the lower revs and tuning. -
Never borrow or lend chimney/draining rods! I have learnt to my peril that if the rods are poorly looked after an end can come off and get stuck, either up the chimney or down a drain. I doubt your rig would do much cleaning. No offense, but any competent DIY-er should own a set of 3/4 inch chimney rods, the money spent will repay you many times over in sweeping fees or drain SOS fees. I've used mine hundreds of times. Bailey Industrial Bailey Universal 30ft Chimney Brush Sweep Sweeping Drain Rod Set Kit WWW.BAILEYSUPPLIES.CO.UK The Industrial Bailey 30ft Chimney Brush Sweep Drain Rod Kits includes 4 popular tools with the following contents: 10 x 3ft x 3/4 inch Blue Rods 1 x 4 inch plunger 1 x 4 inch drop...
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Just a few thoughts. Check the swing of the door doesn't bang the wall with your configuration? A hot door might leave a mark. Continuing on the point, stoves are pretty messy, you might want a box of logs nearby or somewhere to stack a poker. So rather than plaster, it might be a good idea to have some kind of hardwearing wall or fireplace round the stove anyway? Finally stoves can be moved and flue angles inserted, if this is required in the future. Maybe get your installer to promise he will do this, if it turns out it needs more space.
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Genius, thank you. I have ordered the ebay head. I'm not sure how I missed both those links. Yes it works well, thanks. I probably read your post, I can't remember. Although I have often wondered why Oregon didn't put the four hex bolts the other way up, safely facing the sky? It takes a bit of care and picking out muck not to strip them. One day I'll probably manage to smash them up.
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Yes I'll try my dealer. At the moment I'm running a four line head with two lines opposite each other. This works better a the nut is protected, but it would be nice to have all four working, so that if a line got stuck I could cut it off and keep going with the two spare holes. Opening up the head in the field is not ideal with the risk of springs flying off everywhere.
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Does anyone know where I can order new springs for these, the internal ones that are accessible once you dismantle the head, that hold the pawls tight to the line. Somehow I managed to destroy a spring. I suspect 4mm square flexiblade line is actually on the limit of what these can handle as I have had a few blockages. Works great otherwise. Nothing on Google. Thanks.
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I think I'll just leave the plug in for now as it starts easily enough without the decomp valve.
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I don't really have a favourite firewood. Its all gets seasoned so long its virtually unrecognizable and dry enough that the stove or biomass will burn whatever you feed it with.
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So is it working now? I service my old oil AGA every year. The flue needs very little cleaning but its amazing the effect a fine film of soot can have on reducing the draught and making a smell in the kitchen. A variety of brush are needed for the thinner pipes near the boiler. Other than that its simply a case of cleaning the filter at the tank end, making sure oil is flowing and all the carbon is removed. You can get various nest removal tools for regular 3/4 inch screw-in chimney rod sets.
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Thanks. Definitely used a fair bit. Thanks. Its really hard to tell. I'm leaning slightly towards it leaking at the thread than the valve, but the whole thing was covered in oily soot. I'm going to clean it up and try again. I get that the valve might leak a bit if used, maybe i'll see if it still leaks when I don't use the valve.
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This is on a one year old Husqvarna brushcutter 555rxt that has been used a lot. I was doing some routine maintenance after it became a bit harder to start. I have replaced the decomp valve with a plug to see if that makes a difference. I appreciate that you get some oil on the decomp valve but this seems excessive?
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Boiled Linseed Oil? If you want you could apply two coats and the first would be thinned with turps for better penetration. Heating the BLO slightly helps. You could also patch the two holes with square pieces of wood that were the same width as each plank but half the depth. Cut out square recesses to take the patches with a chisel or a router, essentially a type of "dutchman repair." If you wanted to get really pro you could make a round tabletop from a piece of board and a router.
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Agreed. If you cut, split and stack the wood in an open sunny area, before the sap rises then you can get the moisture level below 20% by the end of summer. Sorry for going on about big sheds, 2 years and mechanisation, that just makes life so much easier.
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That's related to the big Scandinavian debate - do you stack split wood 'bark up or bark down'? Bark might keep water off, but also might trap in water? Maybe you can get the best of both worlds - bark down for a few months then, turn the top row over in September? All very nice and quaint, but once you need a volume beyond a few trailer loads, its all about saving effort and minimising the handling times. That means stacking in a big open sided shed and as much mechanization as possible - splitter, a few IBC cages and a small tractor/loader etc.
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Sorry what do you mean by a pump? Something like a mityvac that tests vac and pressure with the same setup is ideal. I agree about avoiding chinese carbs. Also have you considered using the worst saws as donors? It depends what price you got them for and how far you want to go, but ordering new parts can soon get expensive. Maybe once you have pressure tested the crankcases, you could salvage parts from the ones that fail or have issues with the cranks. Rebuilding crankcases requires special tools and a fair degree of skill to do right.
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Yes you can do this if its split to stove sized pieces and stack well, ideally for two years rather than one. But why not use tin or tarps to keep the rain off?
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Sorry to be contrarian, but you can either wait and the shed gets further crushed and wet or act now and at least get a tarpaulin over the shed. If you have the equipment, are qualified and are 100% confident you can clear up the tree safely, I'd just go for it. Getting the council to do anything or give you money or a court case would be stressful, expensive, time consuming and probably fruitless.
