Ledburyjosh

LOLER eh... not fussed with it for this. I'm confident it won't break.. famous last words. It's a Winch rated for 800kg, mounted to a 8mm piece of steel, with the recommended strength Bolts at the correct orientation, held to the tree with 5T rated ratchets. All angles of the rope entry etc will be correct. There isn't much of that combination which is left to guessing.. Expect the steel I've not worked out the exact force it would hold based on the volume of steel. I just thought that'll be strong enough. I will do a few tests for my self nothing more than actually lifting 500kg a few times and then checking the device over.

Progress of another DIY winch/bollard. Based on a Harken 40st. 8mm s275 back plate. Fairleads yet to be added. And it will have a frame on the rear made of 30x30x6mm angle which will bolted to it. To cut it in the tree or to add some blocks to help prevent damage to the tree. This size is rated for 800kg. Although the complete system, ropes/pulled etc, I'll be setting it up on will be a 500kg (590kg to be precise) WLL with a 5:1 safety ratio.

1/4 is much better on this saw. 10" bar length to me makes sense and works for the saws intended use.

On the newer models -2022 for this one. Is there noticeable gains to be had with advancing the timing along with an exhaust mod? And if so how many degrees is a good starting point? Thanks

No worries. For daily large dismantles the 151 and 2511 would surely not be the ones either? I had assumed this was a light purpose saw. Edited: I see this has been mentioned already..

So I've tried both parts. They both fit the inside mounts. I only use the inside. But I believe only the 064 bumper spike fits on the outside so if you want to run double spikes you'll need the 064 set

Chainsawbars as said. I have a panther one from there. Seems good. I also used their chains, didn't seem good. So on my 2500 I have a panther bar and stihl chain. No complaints on that combo

I would suggest the echo 2500- the battery one. I think it's the one of the best bits of kit I've ever bought. It cuts quick and can handle the whole bar in and keep cutting. Light, easy to start, quiet, amazing ergonomics. A harness clip that puts huskys to shame. I have it with 2 batteries and that's always been OK. It has a fast charger anyway if you have access to a plug. On the back of having a go on mine 4 others have now bought one. It does impress The lack of having to pull start is the top Trump for me on all climbing saws now, but particularly ones such as this used for pruning. No faffing trying to start a saw which has cooled down whilst you've been moving around and you only realise it needs choke after the 3rd pull in an awkward position...

Restarting this thread with the thought of advancing the timing on a 2022 ms201 mtronic. Along with opening the muffler up is there a benefit to advancing the timing and if so how many degrees is a good starting point? I'm opening the muffler up in its original hole more rather than drilling a hole in the side. (Not yet finished) I assume the m tronic will require a reset once finished Thanks

And is that what is paid to the cutters or charged to the customer?

Not needed for this job. They're after 1-200 ton a year to feed the estate boiler

@IronMike I never followed this up with your self. I'm all sorted now thanks.

Hi, What are companies charging out cutters for forestry work at? The scenario is an estate with a plantation being felled for their biomass. Our job is to fell and sned what they ask, using our kit etc so brought in as a contractor. I've predominately an Arb background and would say for that £250 per man seems a normalish starting point for that. Is that the same for Forestry or more/less? Ta

The stihl bumper spike are no where the size of the yank ones if that's what your picturing

Hi I'm after some larger than standard felling spikes for a ms 500i. Inside only. Some googling suggests that they are the same as the stihl 064 1122 664 0505 Others suggest the same as the 460 1122 664 0506 Has anyone changed theirs to the above and can say for sure which is the one? Thanks

So is a Gasket delete a case if removing the Gasket to to lower the casing to improve compression? Does it need to be done along side other 'port' work or can it be a stand alone thing?

Although I'm pretty sure stihl don't make a 30"...

Not 30" but after some Google, I found that for a 25" stihl light bar was the lightest option. So would assume the same for 30"

Thank you

My 460 is set up for arb work, so has a full wrap handle which is staying on. This makes it wank for getting low felling cuts though ...

Well I have just been given a 461 on need of some love so that answers that- no new saw just some TLC on a 461

Small saw is currently a 540ixp. Love it for snedding.

Hi. I have landed myself a larch felling Job. The work is in a mixed woodland, just felling larch, to be used by the estate for biomass. Where as I am very happy felling, I have realised I know nothing of extraction other than what is logical to work out. I predominantly do arb work so have never worked along side extraction operations. So what I am after is to learn of the methods used to efficiently extract timber in a mixed woodland where selected felling is happening ie. We can't clear fell and damage is to minimised during felling and extracting. I won't be extracting myself, the estate team have a winch/trailer/tractor and will be collecting the wood. Although there are also inexperienced. I can see that a better knowledge of the process for myself and I can better prepare the timber for them etc if I know how is best to extract it. And also help them learn. So is there anyone in Cumbria area who has this kind of job on who I can come and work for a couple of days to learn a system?

I have just been given a ms461. Which is working sub maximal. I had a look through the exhaust port and it seems OK in there. So filter and carb arr the obvious things to check. It has had the limiter caps removed on the carb previously. What is the process for reseting the carb with limiter caps? Whilst fiddling I also noticed the L adjuster when tweaking kind of springs back a tiny bit, so you turn it say anticlockwise the it will return clockwise a tiny amount. Is that normal?