Ledburyjosh

The GL&D super look great, £13k +VAT though... it has a niche that it'll be amazing for. Clearing woodland brash isn't that niche. It's not going to be quick at what your describing either.. Probably the most cost effective way and efficient is stack in chipper friendly pikes, and when your out of space hire a 6-8" tracked machine for a short period... unless you want to spend many thousands on owning your own. Or burn it, which is quick and free!?

Has anyone on here seen or modified a Greenmech CS100 to sit on a tracked barrow? I have a greenmech, it's a good chipper but it sucks moving it around, it's actually quite limiting where it can go with one person..

A little black round thing?

The choke is loose, and a bungee holds its back. On the list to tighten. I'll check out the things on top the carb. Ta,

OK thanks. Stale fuel could be a contribution, its been sat for 6 weeks or so.. Maybe I'll look at draining it when I know it will be sat for a while. I'll check out putting a new governor spring on it also and see if that helps. Thanks

Hi I have a 18hp vanguard engine on my greenmech cs100. It frequently pops with extra compression evident out of the exhaust and the engine revs, whilst maintaining high rpm seem to fluctuate. You can see in the video the extra force out of the exhaust with each poo the way it moves the woodchip. Does anyone know what might be the cause of this or where to start looking? Thanks

Looks like Fraxinus augustifolia or narrow leaved Ash. Which are very good at falling apart, as well as look amazing. So most likely some prestige pruning to reduce the likelihood of failure... Whether that's the right course of action is up for debate.

Perenniporia fraxinea?

The bracing specification should be specified by the surveyor.. Your saying 4t but maybe 8t.. that's for the surveyor to specify along with static or dynamic installation and where in the tree.. A single bracing takes an hour to install by one climber, this does alter a bit depending on the size tree and how easy it is to move between each side of you bracing. Plus travel to and from site, accessing the tree, getting the kit laid out etc all the usuall faff. Much easier with two climbers, and take a bag/bucket you can dangle of your harness to put all the bit in.

Likewise. I think it's overall the best available device

After trying a lot of devices, I went for this. Easy midline attaching, no adjustments, short, reliable.

How many accidents are there involving chainsaws bought from argos etc are there? I'd guess very few, so few that any such policies are not worth implementing and is likely a cause of irrational fear based on a potentially serious injury which rarley occurs.

A good answer. 'Fully qualified' is a marketing thing people put on websites, flyers etc mostly BS as its based on very little and often equates to no or minimal theoretical knowledge of trees as living organisms. It generally means people have got the 4 basic tickets: -Cross cutting & maintenance -Felling small trees -Tree climbing/rescue -Using a saw in a tree It does not mean anything within the industry tbh given that there are many more certificates of competence and you could go on to get a masters/doctorate in Arboriculture. I doubt anyone is a Dr with all competency certificates... perhaps that is the only true fully qualified 🤔. Otherwise the first two on that list would be starting point for yourself. Without them your more of a hindrance to an employer than a benefit, subjective to what work they have. You can either self fund them to get going or hope to find an employer who will invest in you. In terms of how long to be 'fully qualified' their are companies that get you through it in a month. After which you'll have bits of paper to say you can do something, which in reality you won't be able to do to a useful level. 3-5 years seems a realistic time to become OK at the job, assuming you have good mentoring and opportunity to practise. As to the best route, hard to say.. 1. Get a job, hope they invest in you financially with training and time to bring you on. Employer should pay for this. 2. Do a crash course over a month, then get a job where you can be mentored and given opportunity to practise. You'll need to pay for this. Advice to someone starting out.. Trial it for a bit without spending your own money. You may not like it. Leveraging your HGV experience would be beneficial.