Donnie

@Spruce Pirate @slack ma girdle

Looking to screw in spikes into my Haix boots. Tried fishing wader spikes and they all fell out. Do you guys use anything? 
Either that or I'll bite the bullet one day and order these...

This doesn't half get a hold when jacking. Class well worth it

Hahaha. Welded up some 1 inch mesh onto my plate. See if that will get a better hold on the butt of the log. 
 

Here's one of 25 outsiders I had to sned out today. Didn't fell them just there to sned...

Cut my jack seat badly today and this happened. Harvester even struggled to push it over haha

We go as far up as Erskine Bridge ways Auchentourlie, and Dumfries and Galloway and Argyll (not yet been to Bute but it will come. Apparently the wood is amazing). 
 

Can you send a photo of the top of your plate mate?

Photos never do it justice. It doesn't look that hairy in the photo but I bet it was heavy 😂 I've seen a few people weld mesh onto there plates so it gets a right good hold of the butt, have you ever seen that? @Spruce Pirate

Also where are you cutting about in the UK?

Hardhead wedges or Stubai wedges. Check out Chris Forestry on Google. He has everything on there

Fair enough my Stihl one fits into mine.  What wedges are they?

Some days are grand and feel like an absolute king and other days you just want to throw the saw in the van and head. But that's like any other job really haha. 
 

Defos worth putting the 600 quid for the windblow course towards a saw and getting some work. 
 

First saw I'd say get a 562XPG. They're a little soft but they can do everything, brash, fell steep ground and they will fell outside edge trees if you aren't afraid to ring it's neck. Great for snedding and it's light as. 
 

Good starter saw and 2 years warranty. 
 

Only posting here because I was the same until I got a start, and I was useless when I first started and aw the boys I work with probably will say I still am. 😂

Get the vice in the combi can pocket 😀 

Wouldn't bother doing wind blow course until you've got on with big trees and know your way around a saw. Been handcutting 6 months in forestry in Scotland and don't have my windblow ticket yet but done a bit of cutting them off the stump etc but doesn't seem to be a big demand for the ticket at money company as we have harvesters etc. 

A lot of forestry/saw work is a thing called 'brashing' which really is boring but it's fairly easy. Not always felling trees. 
 

Made a million mistakes so far and will probably make a million more as always learning. Good job to be in though, worth doing. 
 

Bit common for me to be doing at least 40 miles to work then 40 back, sometimes 100 then 100 back in a day.

You will ruin a van, spend a lot of saws, tickets, ppe and diesel. If you are doing it solely for money then don't bother. You have to want to do it and have a big interest in doing it otherwise there really is not much point as things are so expensive. 
 

Just my thoughts after 6-7 months doing so. 
 

HW Training are good as well. Did my small trees with them. 

One from the day. 

5 hours ago, slack ma girdle said:

Some of those trees were hairy monsters.

Do you use a spreader plate with your jack?

Good work

Hey mate. I use a 20mm plate 100x100 with a bit of pipe on the end of it so it doesn't fly off the jack all the time. Have to use it, even on some of the big hairy ones which are far worse than the ones here it will push the plate into the butt of the log. 

28 minutes ago, Doug Tait said:

Nice one J, love it.

 

Could swear you're still getting bigger!

Lost 2 stone since scaffolding and on the saw so I'd hope not 😂

A few photos from the past 6 months or so. Some are a bit shite but getting better. 

3 hours ago, dumper said:

Don’t send them post them.  Please

 

 

3 hours ago, Doug Tait said:

 

Start a new topic of your own if you've a few mate, or stick them up in "today's job" or "at work today" threads.

Posted my own thread cheers

Forestry woodcutter, from the Scottish Borders. 
 

Here's a few copied from my Instagram: https://instagram.com/jfdonaghy7?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

I'll post them all tonight then. Where should i post them?

1 hour ago, Doug Tait said:

 

I remember suggesting your ducting solution in a previous question by JDon about getting the heat from his present stove to travel throughout the house but it wasn't very practical as his house is upside down.

Putting a small stove downstairs sounds the most economical way to go and it wouldn't do any harm having some heat passed up through the garage.

 

Anyway @JDon enough muttering about stoves and logs, how about posting some of the stuff Logan shows me off your Facebook! We love seeing big tree felling here too you know! Anything with the full wrap handle in action would be acceptable...

I blew my Husky 572 up with the full wrap so got a 585 and it is a beast. I've a few videos I can send you. Got a full wrap coming for the 585, just in time for the 572 being rebuilt 😂

9 hours ago, openspaceman said:

Did you break that down into cost for DHW and cost for heating?

 

I have never plumbed in my wood stove but it provides me with all the space heating for a small house 6 months of the year. I burn £100 a year for gas to provide DHW for the winter 6 months.

 

What I am getting at, and someone else asked earlier in the thread, is it not cheaper to install a second woodburner without worrying about DHW heating?

Be a bit silly putting another log burner in wouldn't it? Would need to plum it through my downstairs bedroom which is sitting doing nothing anyway and up through my garage etc. 

I pay a minimum of 200 a month combined tbh but I work in forestry and get unlimited supply of firewood so it would make sense. 

Grand thanks Gareth. Anything to not pay the 200 gas bill I get monthly now!

12 minutes ago, GarethM said:

I'll put this politely, that's far too large without a huge 1500 litre buffer tank and expansion tank.

 

It's not like a gas boiler system that can cycle on and off. Whilst that might be 30kw, a stove needs to be able to run without overheating or exploding as it needs to dissipate heat somewhere.

 

If you also read the listing, it doesn't meet current regulations.

 

Anything that large is going to eat wood like it's going out of fashion, I run a 25kw Angus and it'll eat a wheelie bin a day.

 

Best say 10kw max and just supplement the existing system.

Aye to be fair I did think for 30kw that'd be a beast. I've a 5kw log burner or so in right now that'll heat my whole top floor, kitchen living room bathroom and hall way to 28/30 degrees which is absolutely roasting. Was only a quick google search. 
 

All I'm looking for is to heat downstairs as well upstairs evenly. 
 

Quick google search here and found one (maybe). 

Is there a way to only have the combi boiler just to solely heat the water in the tap/shower/bath? I'm not really clued up on how this all works. 

9 minutes ago, Squaredy said:

You need a suitably qualified person to advise you what is possible and does it work out for you.  Assuming your existing central heating is a combi boiler then the way to link the two is by using a thermal store, which is a significant investment itself.  Otherwise you have two incompatible systems - combi boiler system is high pressure closed loop; wood burner with boiler will be gravity fed with a header tank.

 

 It is worth thinking long and hard if it is really worth it or if you can make the log burner heat lots of your house by opening doors etc!

My log burner is upstairs so only heats half and the downstairs is freezing in the winter so yes. 
 

How much money are we talking?

Yes it is a combi boiler. 
 

I have unlimited access to free wood as I am a cutter in forestry so would be grand.