tenner
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Everything posted by tenner
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550xp with 15" to 20" full chisel Stihl if you're paying. Really like the 560xp's performance but it feels slightly too bulky.
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How about the guy in Scandinavia with over 500 units of Homelite XL 12? Largest XL-12 collection in the world !? - Chainsaw Collectors.se WWW.CHAINSAWCOLLECTORS.SE
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Whip the decomp out and check it on a pressure tester. Pretty sure it was a leaky decomp which killed my beloved Oleo Mac
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I'm no expert but the first thing I'd do is stick my £6 USB borescope down the plug holes and pick donor saws based on visible top end damage and the wobbliest cranks. Good compression could just be a shitload of carbon buildup. Low compression could be an otherwise perfect saw which just needs new rings. Or differences in gaskets? No need to split cases to replace rings. Personally I think if you're aiming to sell the saws for good money then it'd be expected that they've been thoroughly serviced to a high standard. Not necessarily a full rebuild in every case but definitely new seals, full carb rebuild, good top end, absolutely no leaking caps or fuel lines, etc. 200T is a front line saw, your target customer probably isn't a millionaire but someone who will be sending it up a tree 5 days a week on a money making mission. People pay for good tools!
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That hail is mental, must do a ton of damage? I don't think the new builds here would survive 5 minutes of that
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Is that diagram right? Apparently axial play along a MS200 crank is perfectly normal because it uses roller bearings instead of ball bearings? I'm eagerly watching this thread because I noticed radial play in my 200T's crank the other day. "They" say it's quite an easy saw to rebuild but I'd still rather not have to. Blocking the carb's accelerator pump: this does work but not for long in my case and you can't un-epoxy it to rebuild the pump afterwards, no? I got another 10 tanks or so out of my old carb, but performance was noticeably reduced and eventually the un-tuneable and airleaky symptoms returned so I had to spend more time/money working on it anyway. Got a brand new OEM carb, night and day difference.
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I think I might give it a try. Asked a mate with some kind of science PhD who said a bunch of stuff about the importance of molar masses which went over my head, but the gist seems to be: - Mix fuel and water in separate container - Add slightly more water than the expected ethanol content (say, 110ml water for 1L of E10 fuel) - Put mixture in to a separatory funnel and let it sit - Drain the water and ethanol out of the bottom once it's all stabilised Google suggests there seems to be a bit of confusion or misinformation about how much water to add. Guides that say to add 1 cup of water to 1 gallon of fuel would only be good up to about 6% ethanol content. So adding extra water is the way to go, I'm told.
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I had a thought the other day. Wouldn't it be relatively easy to extract ethanol from fuel? Add water, ethanol clings to it, now drain the water/ethanol mix to leave pure unleaded?
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That's a beauty of a Lee Enfield! Looks to be in fantastic condition, how old is it? Does the bayonet get much use?
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Nah it's not just you, I agree with all of those criticisms. I justify the power to weight because the sound isn't as annoying and the harness is good. Often wonder why they haven't added spring AV though since it's decent on their hedge trimmers. I've not learned how a 4 stroke really works either, but that's a compliment to Honda's engineering to be honest: I've not needed to. If the engine won't run properly I rebuild the carb. If it still won't run properly then I check the plug and the valve clearances. That's kept the same machine doing some pretty heavy duty work for many years now. I'm not sure to be honest. Think I learned of the Hondavarna's existence from a New Zealander or American on YouTube, so you may well be right on UK availability. I'd love to try one personally, seems like a great combination.
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How do you think we pay? Bank transfers or cheques for online shopping in 2023? (shoutout to Rowena Carbs actually) We have good consumer protection in the UK no matter how you pay but this is still a pain in the arse.
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Have you looked at the 4 stroke Honda UMK425's? Husqvarna do one with the same engine too (Honda GX25) I don't know how they compare to a similarly priced 2 stroke strimmer. Heavier but less obnoxious, probably? Been happy with mine for what must be a decade now.
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Forgive my naivety but how does this insolvency stuff work? Am I wasting my time emailing these FRP Advisory Trading chaps for my money? Should I just go through PayPal's resolution centre? It's only £150, I'm sure some people here are owed way more, but I'm broke and everything's relative.
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Big, public thanks to adw. I got twice as many parts as expected for a good price, delivered next day. I can't promise any time frame yet but if someone on the forum has their heart set on a 254 work saw I'll be happy to pay it forward and help you out. p.s. does anybody have two 254XP crankshafts?
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Oleo Mac 956/Efco 156 with a medium toasted piston. Not a fun saw to work on. No idea why anybody would design an intake boot like that. This saw's got a ton of sentimental value but I'm skint and parts are expensive. Don't suppose anybody has a x56/x61/x62 parts saw out there?
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Keen for wood I can saw, split, season. Near St. Agnes. Can pay for decent loads but I'm not rich. Thanks
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Hello! Are there any decent options for 2-stroke tachs in the UK these days? Historic wisdom seemed to suggest the sensible choices are between: - TT-20K - OPPAMA PET-1100 - Stihl EDT 5 None of these seem to be available in the UK for a sensible price though, if at all. Fair enough the EDT 5 is discontinued, but the newer Stihl tachs have a much slower refresh rate while still costing a fortune. This seems mental, am I missing something? I've already got a cheapo Chinese special, and my multi meter can tach as well, but they're both slow (1+ sec) and neither give accurate 2-stroke readings without multiplying the number manually. I just want a tachometer that'll do 2-strokes natively, with fast refresh rate (0.5s at most), a replaceable battery, shipped from the UK, without costing an arm and a leg. Any tips? Cheers!
