dudders
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Everything posted by dudders
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This looks a solid old piece of kit, but what's it like to use? I'm trying to imagine pushing the log through the saw, and back again, or is that powered? And then keeping it steady as it rolls, and setting up for the next cut, and removing the cut piece, etc. Looks like hard work to me. Has anybody here used one? Stenner Sawmill Forestry WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p>Stenner VJA42 rack Sawmill. Owned since 1995, in full working order, can be seen working, still cuts like a dream...
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I'm surprised the new oak sleepers are more expensive than the reclaimed - they're thinner, narrower and shorter, plus they're not treated. I've got reclaimed ones here that have been in the ground more than 60 years and still solid. I've also got oak gateposts rotting after only 10 years. But I guess the new ones are wanted for trendy garden schemes, where tarry old ones are unsuitable. Agreed, at that price though, with all the extra work of milling, stacking, storing, etc, it may be better to turn it into firewood. Or timber...
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If anyone out there is defo going to stay with mineral oil rather than bio, I've got 4 25-litre drums of hydraulic oil that's just come out of my mill. It's destined for the recycling plant, but you can have it for free if you can pick it up - East Sussex.
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Don't worry - it's not age, it's something all of us do at least once when milling. You're getting old if you keep doing it...
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Should be chain oil, but you're lungs may not notice the difference... I've just finished a 25l drum of rapeseed oil (Rye) and I'm fine with it. Pretty runny, but still does a tankful to a tankful of fuel. If extra wear to the bar is the price to pay for using a 'friendlier' oil, so be it. Before switching to bio-oil, I was using old engine oil (free) filtered through paint strainers, so it's likely to be better for the bar than that! Never had a problem with it going solid or jelly-like, same with the Stihl bio-oil I used. Don't half have to watch it when filling the tank though, coz it's virtually transparent, so easy to overfill.
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Just hold it between your knees - simple! VIDEO-2020-12-17-13-20-48.mp4
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It's 'designed' in the UK. Which means it's actually made in China. These days it's often called PRC (People's Republic of China) to try to put you off the scent, but it still smells bad to me...
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For you guys up north, this is just up on ebay - TIMBERKING 1220 SAWMILL WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Condition is "Used". including 2 mtr bed extension. A guy near me down south here has one and is very happy with it. It was on my very-shortlist for a new one a year ago, until I decided to fully overhaul my old Trekkasaw. Looks in good nick and that's not a bad price at all, especially as it's a long version and trailerable. (if that's a word?)
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Notice how anything on ebay with a Union Jack in the picture is always made in China? Laughable really, but some people will get taken in by that. Apparently the Chinese can make good stuff, but they know we Brits only want cheap, so cheap is what they send us. It's our own fault. Our fault too that labour costs here are so high, other countries will easily undercut us. We've gone soft, with our foreign holidays, new cars, smart houses, all the latest stuff. Got to admire the Chinese and others, who are happy to work twice as hard for half as much. It's not slave labour, it's just a competitive spirit - they want to get on, we want an easy life.
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Ballpark figure depends on how big and expensive it is. I was quoted £1500 to bring a mill over from the USA. Import duty was 3.5%, and then VAT on the whole lot - machine price + transport + duty. Sharing a container will cut the transport price, but that'll mean appointing a freight forwarder to organise things. Not a bad idea anyway, as he'll do all the paperwork. But, you have to pay for the service. Worth it, though, IMO.
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It's a big faff, that's for sure. Go to this page on .gov and they take you through the process. By the time you've done all the paperwork, paid for the transport, paid the import duty and the VAT, and ended up with some piece of Chinese crap, you'll wish you'd never started... Sit back and be patient and whatever it is you're after will turn up sometime on ebay or whatever - 2nd-hand good quality will be better than new junk. Import goods into the UK: step by step - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK How to bring goods into the UK from any country, including how much tax and duty you’ll need to pay and whether you...
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I thought, frame it and call it 'The Snog'.
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I'll never grumble about sharpening my 13" bar again...
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I use this: Genuine Garrett Security Super Scanner Metal Detecter WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p>Genuine Garrett Security Super Scanner Metal Detecter, Unlike The Garrett Fakes Circulating.Condition is "Used"... Seems a good price, as they're generally about £140 new. It'll pick up a 4" nail below 1 1/2" of oak, if taken slowly and right on the surface. Obviously bigger bits will be spotted deeper, but smaller bits may be missed at that depth. Haven't looked around for anything more powerful, but it's bound to be out there - at a price. You can get cheaper versions of this, around £25, but they're Chinese knock-offs, so take your pick.
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Love that one 2nd from right in the first pic. Almost 3D. That'd make a fantastic table-top. I'd put a high £ on that.
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I'm not going back to wool socks in a hurry. For years my work socks have been Corrymoor Companions - brilliant. They're mohair, from Angora goats farmed in the UK, which has smooth fibres which don't catch bacteria and skin bits like wool does. So no stinky sock smell! I'll wear the same pair for over a week and they still won't smell at all. Less washing means longer life. For some strange reason I don't understand, the marl colours keep their shape better and last longer. Their website: corrymoor.com.
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Maybe try a restorer of old carriages, wagons and wheels - lot of ash was used there, I reckon.
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I couldn't get any interest in nice straight clean lengths of ash either. Between 6 and 12 inches diameter, knot-free, I tried the woodturner's forum on facewipe and no response there either. Ended up as firewood...
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Supposedly arriving tomoz. ?
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Forgot to mention when I said about rapeseed oil, I do get one problem with it. It's pretty thin, which is fine except that it leaks through the pump and out, even when you're not using the saw. Not a lot, but enough to notice. Otherwise, it's good. I'm cutting a lot of rhododendron and holly right now, that have grown right across a stream and rooted on the other side, poxy stuff. Quite happy to stand in the stream using the saw - no more of that colourful topping on the water from the chain oil.
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I use Rye Oil pure rapeseed oil off ebay - 25 litres for £48. Seems fine to me, specially when I'm sawing over water. In the bad old days I used old engine oil, filtered through fine paint strainers, bit of a faff, but free. Cheap is cheerful for me for chain oil! My chains only need chucking when the cutters are done and they don't slacken in the meantime. Haven't bought a new bar in years.
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zilch. I'd only offer to clear the site for free. The cost of time and overheads is not likely even to be met by the sale of a doubtful amount of timber and firewood, let alone show a profit.
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+1. And nice timber/handiwork too.
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Jeez that's beautiful timber. Can't work out how it went - was that an ancient stub, or is it a cross-section or what? Looks like it was the stub of a branch that withered away at the end.
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Woodmizer on ebay at the moment - Woodmizer LT 20 with full set works petrol bandsaw sawmill with 33 hours use. WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Woodmizer LT 20 with full set works petrol bandsaw sawmill with 33 hours use and is six years old, kept under cover... Aargh - didn't notice this post had already gone up when I was writing it, so please ignore the earlier one. Seems there's no way for me to delete it?
