Paddy1000111

You're better with it on the outside. Not just for access but if you take a fall in the helmet you don't want the unit being on the inside and becoming a hot spot for the impact.

As someone with more experience than me khriss... If some one has an issue with a root and does nothing about it, knowing that they can cut it in accordance with boundary laws etc, If said root, that they failed to take care of causes damage, are they responsible? If someone has an overhanging branch that they never deal with damage their guttering then aren't they to blame for negligence? I can't go in my neighbours garden every few months and check the roots and branches are safe for their house?

I agree with Khriss completely on this. It does sound like a bunch of chancers. Unless there is soil samples done, root samples etc "It appears" sounds like a letter from a mate they have in the insurance adjuster business. On the side of taking the tree down then they are more than welcome to sever the root on their side should it be one causing an issue... Out of interest are you in a clay soil area as that is more prone (and really the only type of soil prone) to roots causing shrinkage from moisture removal. You should only really be taking information from an independent (chosen by anyone but your neighbour) qualified building surveyor or structural engineer. AFAIK a loss adjuster isn't a qualified structural engineer but someone who can take information from a qualified and certified person. Their opinion is meaningless. It sounds like they are trying to find reasons and bully you into removing what sounds like a beautiful and well cared for tree that you have spent time investing in. As far as you being financially responsible it could be the case. If your tree has physically damaged someone's property then you can be left liable however if that came around, the buildings foundations and the fact it doesn't meet regulations will have to be taken into account and it should be deemed not your fault. It also sounds to me that the foundations were done by a bunch of cowboys...

I've got a pump that would be able to handle it. It just means going and starting the pump and running the system for a while each time it's dry. Question is, in the winter, how often do they need watering?

Sorry dumper, the hole for the tree would be round, the 2/3 inch deep mulch square is at the surface. I'm only making it square as it's easy to dig with a large leveling bucket. Digging circles is a little inconvenient ?. Watering is my main concern with them actually. They aren't near any water supplies by about half a mile. The only thing close is a lake so I guess petrol water pump but it's not exactly convenient and will have a hell of a head pressure up the hill

That is something I can't answer for you I'm afraid. From my point of view I would say that the pruning/root trimming law says that you can't prune or cut in a way that makes the tree dangerous. So I guess in terms of the law it is on you and you can't really forewarn them that you are going to make the tree dangerous and it's their problem to deal with it... If the tree has had a heavy prune it won't survive anyway. Cherry and plum trees really don't like being heavily pruned in my experience. On the other hand. The boundary law also stipulates that whilst you can't ask the tree owner to come and clear up their branches and windfall leaves for you, if the tree causes damage to a property such as damaging guttering (or in your case damaging sewer pipes) it is down to the tree owner to pay for any damages/repair fees associated with that damage. I would discuss it politely with the neighbour and nicely mention that it is encroaching your sewer system and is going to be causing damage in the near future and according to the law it will come down to him to pay for the repairs. Personally, knowing that the bill will be theirs anyway I would just leave it. You're putting yourself in liability and out of pocket to prevent a repair bill that will be theirs anyway should the roots damage the sewer pipe. If you feel you really MUST do something about it then just cut the one root that is causing a problem and leave the rest instead of cutting along the boundary if it puts your mind at rest. If any other roots cause an issue in the future then it will be on them anyway.

Bucket it is then! I have to rent an auger anyway for installing a load of posts in a barn but I was hoping I could make life a little easier and do the trees with it too. Would you bother with digging a 1.5-2M square a couple of inches deep to allow for mulching? I was thinking that for a tiny little bit of extra work I could create something that looks quite smart!

I'll be using a digger regardless, bucket or auger! I've dug posts by hand in the past and I promised I would never do it again. These are going to be specimen beech and not hedging. The soil is rather dense sandy soil anyway and it is well drained so beech should be perfect for it! I guess bucket it is then. I was going to dig a 1.5-2M square about 2-3 inches deep and then dig the hole for each one. I was thinking it would allow for mulch to be placed around the bases and keep it tidy? If you can't tell tree planting isn't my forte!

Hi Everyone, As the topic says really. I have to plant a load of Beech trees and the ground is pretty hard. I want to plant it with an auger really, makes the whole job quicker and easier but I am concerned about root compaction with only a small area drilled as opposed to digging holes for each one. Anyone got any experience with using an auger and the effect it had on the saplings? Thanks!

If the tree is in decline then I wouldn't necessarily be too concerned with killing it off, especially if you do the work during it's dormant phase (as the trees permanent roots will be there but a lot of the feeder roots will have died back as they only live a year or two) My main worry would be severing all the roots and creating an uprooting risk. Cherry trees are very shallow rooting and if you cut all the roots out on one side then the tree could fall in the neighbours direction and you could be left liable for that for creating a dangerous tree.

If it is sap then I would suggest anything that removes sap. IPA alcohol and a small but hard car detailing brush might work, or using any sort of vehicle tar/sap remover. Even white spirit removes sap. If you're talking about replacing it then try anything. Even bleach might work as a last ditch before digging it up. Nothing to loose except 2-3 quid on some cleaner

Correct! In this case mind the only way this climber would have been safe is if he used a cherry picker

LOLER. Anyway, I climb DDRT most of the time unless I'm doing work for myself and once I saw the SRT light I now resent DDRT a little. Mainly because of this rather cloudy area with HSE and the fact I didn't train in SRT. I've always wondered if I did fall at work it gives an insurance company a good get out of "you didn't train in SRT and this isn't the "approved" way... Anyway, I didn't want to turn this into the usual forum debate of SRT Vs DDRT... Not what this topic is about

What do you mean climb up and set your top tie? As in spike and flipline up then set your DDRT anchor?

It depends really. I think DDRT has more disadvantages to advantages compared to SRT. Be it more rope wear if you aren't using a cambium saver ,if you are using a cambium saver the install time is a lot longer. Double the climbing effort, more time spent isolating branches etc by which time you might as well install a cambium saver. Only real disadvantages to SRT is equipment cost and doubling the weight on the branch unless you're using a top anchor. If you're doing SRT compared to DDRT I bet I can throw a rope over a tree, tie it onto the base and be at the top of a tree faster on SRT than I can isolate limbs and get tied in then climb slowly and rather jankily on a DDRT system

The smh10 is the best one to go for. The smh5 is cheaper but pairing can be a pain as you have to pair them in a weird order. The smh10 installs the same as the 5 but pairs better with multiple sets and has a longer range. There's loads of videos on YouTube about installs for the protos helmet. Plus if you want it in another helmet type you can so you don't have to buy a load of protos helmets for everyone. If you install it on your protos you also retain the ability for the headphones to fit inside the helmet. The 3M system etc doesn't allow for that at all

Personally I use a protos helmet and a SENA Bluetooth intercom kit. Tonnes of videos on YouTube about how to install it all. It makes for a low profile, lower cost alternative to the mental money kits you buy from a manufacturer

Guess it's time to do what others have said and look at the pull start and it's bushings. Maybe when it's loaded it's jamming up?

Not a bad idea although I would rather make something that meets specs and can handle what I need it for as opposed to having something that I have to have back ups in place for incase it breaks

Depends, I only bother using a cambium saver as a tie in when I'm not sure about the tree or its tie ins if there's only one branch available for a tie in and it looks a little shifty (not as shifty as the one in this post by a long shot though) then I use the cambium saver. I feel if I weigh half as much to the branch I'm less likely to take a tumble. Plus, once I'm secured I don't have to worry about climbing over my anchor or getting to my anchor to tie in before moving above it!

It hasn't been fiddled with before has it? If they left the cylinder seal off the bottom then it could pump up the compression by a tonne? Could even be touching the head?

Well the winch on the GRCS is a regular boat harken 2-speed self-tailing rope winch which are around £700 depending on the model and what you want out of it. The steel which I will probably use some S275 structural will come to around £60 for some 1/2" plate, some tubing for the hinges and some angles for the brackets. The 5 tonne ratchet strap which can be surface mounted is £15. Powdercoat is £30 ish and then it's just the welding but I have a friend who will do that for a good price. The whole thing would probably set me back £800 to £900 plus testing. When I get round to doing it I'll do a guide and post up how I get on!

Well, I can build the unit and get it powedercoated for sub £1000 including the harken winch. The GRCS system is around £2800 with the VAT so unless single testing costs £1800 then I'm quids in!

I guess my next question is having single units approved. I've done work for aircraft/marine companies and councils etc as an engineer. There's all sorts of specialist lifting equipment and tooling that's all made in house. I wonder how they get that approved?

Anyway, back on topic. I didn't mean this to be a "mines better than yours" "I'm better than you" thing... Just explaining how I SRT when I'm unsure of anchor and how I feel it's safer than DDRT as we were discussing the dangers of srt. At least this seems like a clean cut case of climber error...