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Mike F

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Everything posted by Mike F

  1. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Made by TCF Engineering. Used and in excellent condition and full working order. Brand new they are £400 (I have owned it from new). Would suit a gardener, tree surgeon, landscaper or someone with a big garden to haul waste, fire logs, tools It has 2 settings for the 4 upright struts: wide load or tall load. It is designed also to take a dumpy bag (to move material or collect hedge clippings etc). The full spec is here https://www.tcfengineering.co.uk/brash-cart.html Collection only from EN6 (about 10 mins drive from J24 of M25 Potters Bar) - There is no postage option as it's too heavy.

    £190

    Potters Bar, Hertfordshire - GB

  2. Morning all, Does anyone know where I can rent a Greenmech CS100 in the South Hertfordshire/North London/West Essex area? (I'm near Potters Bar) I just want to try one to compare and test it (I know most rental places have the TW13/75, but want to compare) Previously had my own TW150 (sold it) but have moved out of full time work but am considering getting a pedestrian chipper to take on small(er) odd jobs cheers
  3. Evening all, I've just started a new job at a college and am teaching the students (mainly 16-18 year olds) cross cutting and felling (we stand lengths up in our "felling pits" for them to practice felling cuts). Am therefore looking for a supplier of lumber as we need practice material of a decent size and weight. College is south east (very near Junction 25 of the M25 motorway). Species doesn't matter so much, but lengths need to be at least 4m long , max 7m long. Diameter at least 8" up to 18"/20".... can go bigger on random lengths. In the first instance am looking for a decent truck load to make it worthwhile and sensible for someone, at least 40 or 50 lengths....more ideally. If it's worth doing for someone (they will need to send a quote)..... it would mean them registering with the college as a supplier (so you can get paid and it's all "above board") but I'm happy to help them with that and make the process as painless as possible. hope it might be of interest to someone out there - appreciate we all need to make a few quid to keep the wheels turning - My plan is to really give the students a lot of exposure to cutting/felling and getting them confident with the saw so they are of use when they come out into the workplace. cheers MikeF
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  4. have a look at the limit switches.....I had a similar problem with my TW150.....cleaning and spraying contact cleaner on the green feed limit switch fixed it.....
  5. noticed the main forum website had some maintenance the other day. since then the Arbtalk app on my phone has stopped working.....anyone else got the same issue ? cheers MikeF
  6. i had same problem on mine. All I did was open up the button control box and give the limit switches a good blast of compressed air...then i sprayed in some electrical contact cleaner and it seems to have worked.....i think you can get the limit switches for about £25 each ?....I didn't have to try this but if the above doesn't work then i think you can swap the limit switches around to verify if it is the problem or not ("stop" switch doesn't get as much use as the "start")
  7. from tip to tip they are 2.3m....cutters are 56cm... i've got a set.....nice that they are articulated......got these and a set of the 70cm regular cutters and a tripod ladder.......not much we can't get to with them.
  8. Evening all After a bit of help. I do mainly smallish jobs, so this is a bigger job for me (but small compared to what a lot of you guys do). Have got a small oak to come down with no real drop zone. Too much nice driveway/plants/fence to damage if blocking it down. so, Ideally a 1/2 day hire of a Hiab with a timber grab and possibly a small MEWP - take it down in 2 or 3 or 4 cuts Its Dia 36" and probably about 9m tall...front garden....can get within 1.5m of it...i guess around 5t-6t total weight Anyone know of a hire place in Hertfordshire/Essex/North London ? muchos gracias
  9. Man do I feel like a prize plonker ..... to be fair I did read the manual straight away......and I've seen that oil symbol in a book before this.... because I couldn't find it i assumed it was some bullish*t about oil quantity only being on american spec 261's or something, and dismissed it...... Stihl have been a bit "Hayne's Manual-esq"....show a picture of a screw and say "you must tighten this"....without showing WHERE the f*ck the screw is located....... i had another look under...i usually keep the saws pretty clean with an airline......but i don't blow the crud that's buried inside the underside if you know what i mean......so i did find a screw after clearing.... no symbols or anything like that in the manual....turned all the way clockwise....seems oil is on the bar. thanks for your posts and playing along ..... i should have know better to be fair i shall go shame-faced now and sharpen my lovely oily chain peace out
  10. Thanks for the shop manual Wonky.....much appreciated.......i'll have a good thumb through that I don't think my model 261 has an adjustable oil pump....MS261-C
  11. Morning all, just wondered if anyone might be able to point me to an MS261 specific "idiot proof" guide of some description for changing the oil pump....... i've trawled the archives, and looked on You Tube.... The saw is getting oil to the bar....just.....I think it might be the worm gear....and i'll change that....will clean the tank etc....but if I have to switch the oil pump over I was looking for a specific guide for the MS261 (plenty of generic ones that I know I'll f*ck it up somehow if I follow it) muchas gracias
  12. I think I've got it sorted. I've managed to rent a 661 from someone (finalising and collect saw tonight).....hopefully it goes ahead. Thank you all for your kind help, responses and offers.
  13. Looking at Wednesday / Thursday next week. The customer is keeping almost all of the chip & timber - it's a big place. They want the rings to, and have a site vehicle to put them on, so cutting some rings that are liftable 2-man and can be put onto a little piaggio backed right up close will be enough.
  14. I've got a 261, and would prefer to use my own stuff if I can........ but can maybe borrow a 461 which might have better options ?
  15. Looking for a bit of help. Just to see if anyone out there is interested in either: - renting me a large saw (ideally >42") or - coming to site (your day rate including saw) to help me finish a job ? The location is near Potters Bar - Hertfordshire. I've just taken down multiple poles on 2 large Lawson Cyprusses. What's left is 2 short(ish) trunks/stumps...approx 2.5m tall, 41" diametre. Need to get the stumps over (roughly just above ground level) and ring them up. There is plenty of space in a large front drive (enough for my truck to pull them over with a rigging rope). If it's of interest drop me a line. Mike - Home Wood Tree Services Ltd mob. 0771 666 2932 [email protected]
  16. hedge/hedgerow might be "siepe" the missus is from milano....being a newbie i very rarely get to add something (hopefully) useful to the chat......i'm always reading and trying to learn from the wealth of experience on this site!
  17. Thanks for all the replies. Think I've got my head around it now to do it with the 20" bar. Also think I'll look at doing the felling >380mm course as for sure it will be useful.
  18. after a little bit of guidance/advice from you chaps Usually it's just small jobs for me (have a 261 with an 18" bar). Looking like I might (finally) secure a nice bigger job ..... when I say big it's big for me !...... 2 x Lawsons 18m...with trunks DBH 41.5" (I measured the trunks......330cm circumference). The trunk is only this Dia up to about 2.4m height....past that its just poles that are manageable....so the bit I'm stuck on its getting it to ground level.. I have a 261 with 18" bar, ......and I can borrow a mate's 461 with 20" bar Questions are : what is the largest bar/chain to get on a 261/461 and be able to fell (cut the trunk to a stump) to ground level (obviously the tree is a sectional dismantle). I'm thinking best way might be buy a 25" bar and chain for the 461 (not sure the max on a 261) and just keep expanding the gob cut....maybe cut sides away.....maybe letterbox it ? I've used 880's and 660's before in the past and in an ideal world I've have a 47" bar......(working for a local authority).....but now I'm on my own......can't hire 660's with big bars (not that I can find) and I'm not in a position financially to buy a saw like that. any ideas gratefully received cheers MikeF
  19. Evening all, just wondering what the consensus is on locking out the lifting eye on the chipper ? I've got the usual wheel clamps, towing hitch locks, but wondering if it's worth locking out the eye......or is there no point as slings can be used anyway ? I initially looked at something like this Towing Eye Lock fits 40mm and 50mm Towing Eyes | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Heavy Duty Towing Eye Lock Self colour steel finish Suitable for 40mm & 50mm towing eyes. I suppose I should really get a concrete block set in the ground to prevent it being lifted, but in the meantime......any ideas ? cheers Mike
  20. Evening all, Just to see if anyone knows of a LOLER inspector in Hertfordshire ? I've looked through the archives on here and can't seem to come up with anything. Looking for a LOLER inspector in the Hertfordshire area ? (I'm in Potters Bar....So North London/ South Hertfordshire / West of Essex area) I'm out of agency work (where they provided LOLER'd kits) this week.......a possible short term job has come up but I'd need to get my own kit LOLER'd quite quickly. cheers Mike
  21. morning gents, just a note to say thanks for all the responses - at least it's diagnosed. I've got the machine booked in next week so hopefully can get it fixed, an bring in a few quid after this work drought cheers Mike
  22. ok. I've had the chute and roller box all off. It seems like its the bearing at the front of the flywheel - On page 46 of the TW manual its bearing 6205. When I rotate the flywheel using a socket it grinds/binds for about 180 deg, then it frees up I can't get that main shaft 24mm nut off (not even with a long steel bar) that holds the driveshaft together. Does anyone know if this nut is reverse thread ? Does anyone know if this bearing 6205 can be replaced without taking of the front plate of the rotor housing ? I feel like I'm so close to being able to fix it any advice gratefully received
  23. morning gents thanks for all the replies. I think I've diagnosed it from your suggestions....the flywheel is bound up....i think wire might be in it. i've got the 2 springs off and the head raised with wood supporting it...gonna try and look inside........if the wire is behind (ie no access to it) the flywheel then does that mean the hopper head has to come off ?...i.m not sure what needs to come of to get open access to the flywheel
  24. Hi Bob thanks for the reply. chipper was running fine most of the day. now it won't turn over, similar to a weak battery....lots of resistance on cranking (it's not the battery - new one 6 months ago) I'm no mechanic, but to me it's like there's a solenoid (starter ? fuel ?) not working preventing it from starting ? I'm not sure I know how to check/test that though..... i'll post up a video clip tomorrow.....it's totally f*cked me as I at last had a few small little jobs lined up and now will have to cancel (just not enough money in them for a hire chipper).
  25. Evening all, Just wondered if anyone knows of places that do chipper repairs on a TW150 DHB in the South Herts/W.Essex N.London area ? I'm only a very small outfit doing small domestic stuff. Been no work for 2 months. My 2nd job in this week and chipper has gone (think it might be solenoid) In the past I've been to Tom at Willows Workshop (brilliant service) but he is booked out for 6 weeks......i've only just managed to get a few jobs lined up and this has happened so I'm trying to get it fixed quick. any advice greatly appreciated cheers Mike

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