Rob_the_Sparky

TBH getting rid of wood is never a problem if it will fit in the boot of a car. Lots of people out there happy to take wood and dry it.

I can see the problem, any wood needs drying and processing to become firewood but arb arisings are of a size that are much more readily handled and transported by non-professionals and it is not readily handled by wood processors either so not much commercial interest. Still if sawmill was local to me and I didn't have my arb arisings source I'd be interested in such wood. Anyone home processing needs a saw so as long as the sawmill is OK with it, wood can be cut before transport home in multiple trips.

wrt firewood: all wood has a similar amount of energy in it by weight (when dry) and all wood burns on a wood burner. I often hear (not here so much) that xyz is not a good for firewood but if you have it and have no other use for it then any wood will heat your house as firewood.

Same story for my 5.0 TVR, cheaper to insure than a 7 year old Ford S-Max!!! We should all just start driving V8s

Try a search on here, there are a number of threads along the sort of "how much" lines. I suspect that more info will be needed from what I've seen in those threads.

Agreed with the above but generally when it comes to drying there is no fixed time it takes. Longer unsplit rounds take longer (most of the drying occurs through the end grain if not split). Shorter, split wood is quicker to dry. Then you have the wood type on top of that. I have a chunk of willow on the wood pile from last year ~3' long and 8" round that is still growing!!! and yes I really need to get it split ASAP but thought it would have stopped long ago...

There are a few home firewood users on here (me included) but most people on here are pros so unlikely to get any bites on here for it. Maybe the tip site if worth a look though?

Does this old thread help any?

Not true on the whole. The vast majority are only heat treated and are perfectly burnable. There is a stamp on every pallet that tells you but in my experience you rarely find anything other than HT (heat treated). Having said that, there is a lot of air in a pallet and not much wood plus they burn fast and hot. Great for kindling but hard work for the amount of wood you get out of them for any other purpose. Added link: Markings on a pallet: What do they mean? An Extended Guide QUICARGO.COM Read our guide to learn the pallet markings, treatment codes, and authorities for pallets, as well as how to identify them for your business.

FYI the local small tree surgeon I get my wood from is saying: more people elect to keep the logs, he gets rid of a lot of it by advertising on Facebook and then I take the few ods and ends he has left. He has no problem getting rid of the wood he does not want and TBH would be too small for you anyway. N.B. a few years ago he used to dry and sell logs as well but the new rules put paid to that. (mostly anyway)

Interesting little tool for my home use. OTT numbers of tree for a mere amateur like myself but yeah interesting to see some numbers against the logs I chop/burn.

If there is a zero missing then maybe 3 tons makes more sense? 60mm and "large" along with 3 tons seems that there is something wrong somewhere.

I had something like this but not a big when I dug up a large bamboo. Big tangled block of roots and mud. I tried and killed a hand saw, was not going to kill my chains saw chain. pressure washer got some of the mud off but not as much as you would think. In the end I used a mattock to break/cut it up into managable pieces that I could then dispose of but it was hard work and took a while.

It is all in theory as well, not sure anyone has ever tried this.

Heating the intake air from the flue is going to improve efficiency (which is why balanced flue gas boilers do this) However, it also cools the exhaust gasses that contain a large amount of water along with a cocktail of other compounds. Balanced flue gas boilers have to drain the water that condenses but burning gas does not result in the same flue chemicals. With a complete burn that may not be a problem but condensing water running back down into the fire would be bad. All this has nothing to do with external air as such, it is about running the external air down the flue pipe...