Hank
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Everything posted by Hank
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Is there a case to be made for them starting out slowly, not undertaking anything too big and learning as they go? I don't really see any harm in that, especially if they aren't in a position to go and get experience with another tree firm. You can still do things properly and safely without tickets (although I do agree tickets if possible are the way to go).
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Agree with this. It's expensive but if it means that folks like Reg can get paid while continuing to develop and refine equipment, making things better and safer for the rest of us, I don't think that's a bad thing.
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I think Mike Tyson could absolutely batter him regardless of age, but I also think and expect that it'll probably all be a bit underwhelming.
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Will be interesting to see if they also release his climbing device, especially with the new rope runner just coming out
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It's much better now after a bit of WD-40 to all the moving parts, didn't notice any noise at all so that's nice.
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This is good to know thanks
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There isn't a lot in the manual about maintenance, just a little image of an oil can Going to give it a bit of oil tomorrow and see if it makes a difference.
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I'd say it also crunches as well as creaks.
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It's nasty!
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😂well does it? Mine does. I'm hoping it's just the fact that it's metal on metal so it's bound to make some noise under load but I still don't like it (the noise that is, otherwise I think it's great).
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Thank you! Super interesting. This is a good read: Climbers Are Not Curious — Wooden Hand WWW.THEWOODENHAND.COM At the end he mentions piggy backing anchor points, what would be a simple and retrievable way of doing that? Edit: I guess he means using two ropes but would be cool to do it on a single rope as well.
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Do you have a link? Sounds interesting.
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Do you worry about the little retaining pin on the quickie being forced out if it's loaded against the tree?
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Ok yes sorry should have been clearer—I've only really seen it being used on a base tie but good to know it's not exclusive to that. I guess my original question was: is it good/acceptable practice to switch between the two when up in a tree, and from your reply it sounds like it is. Thanks
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I've been pretty happy climbing DRT, especially for the ease of moving the rope around the tree, that's probably what put me off trying SRT but then I figured... I can use an SRT canopy anchor using a bowline or similar which theoretically means I should be able to move the rope and anchor as easily as on DRT. Then when I need to descend I can retrieve the bowline, switch to DRT and get the rope out of the tree when I'm down. So, am I missing something here? It seems simple and safe to me but I also don't have a mentor or really know any arborists so haven't got anyone to ask about it.
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Does her landlord not take care of stuff like that??
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I didn't used to mind the initial work because the job almost always went ahead. I've started charging now though.
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Different industry here (timber frame carpentry) but one thing that has really stood out to me this year is the amount of ghosting going on from prospective clients. I've had plenty of people asking for quotes and drawings and such, which I usually just absorb into the final cost of the project, except this year all but one of those enquiries has ghosted me. Infuriating. Are tree companies experiencing anything similar? It's so rude!
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How do you become a forestry timber cutter.
Hank replied to Roebus's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
How have you been getting on with it all @Roebus -
Thanks for all this guys. Interesting about the depth gauges, will give that a go. The bar and chain look ok. I filed the bar to get rid of the grooves and the chain moves freely through it. Incidentally should the chain be tensioned different for ripping than for crosscutting? The air filter is clean - haven’t put a new spark plug on yet but that was high on my list of things to do. My reason for thinking the saw is running ok is because it’s very responsive on the throttle and sounds good. I could be wrong tho... I’m not saying by any means that’s a foolproof test of whether a saw is good but I think it’s positive at least. I’ve yet to try a crosscut chain on it (don’t have one). Thanks again.
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Hi all. I recently picked up a Stihl MS660 running a 36” bar and ripping chain to go with a Granberg Alaskan Mill. So far I’ve run it through some unseasoned 14” oak and it hasn’t been performing particularly well. It seems to run out of steam at the slightest push into the log and generally struggles to get through the whole thing. Another thing, the planks I’m milling are only about 1.5m long and in that time it goes through about a tank of petrol. I know milling is fuel intensive but that seems quite a lot... The chain is sharp and the saw appears to be running well ... until I start milling. I’m also using wedges to avoid any pinching. Any help appreciated!!
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I put a chain around it where it started to lean and then a strap slightly higher up where it changed direction and then did a dogtooth cut at the base. I was aiming for it to fall just to the right of the two smaller trees in front of it and that's exactly where it went. Those dead limbs were quite deceiving as the trunk was still in good condition; that probably helped in keeping it a controlled fell with no nasty surprises.
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All's well that ends well. Thanks for the help.
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Thanks for all the replies. Quite frankly I'd love to dynamite this tree, that'd be brilliant.
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That's a good idea. I guess what I was asking in a roundabout way was whether I was right in thinking it'd be safer to cut from a few feet up where it straightens out, or whether to go from the base. Going from the base where it's twisted and bends makes it a bit more unpredictable imo, hence wanting someone else's thoughts!!
