Gbaz

Thanks for that.

Do the flip up caps fit all huskys? Ive got them on my 440 and fancy them on my 365. I suppose I should try and switch them over.

My main saw has a .058 bar and chain. Can I use any gauge chain as long as I have a matching bar without changing the sprocket?

Thanks all, I might give it a go. I want to turn it into a 372 but not sure if I should wait until the warranty runs out. Where sells skip chains?

I have just bought a 365 and I am running a 20" bar. I am very pleased with it so far. In the manual it says that the max bar length is 28" and I am tempted to get one for infrequent use. I realise performance is not going to be that great but will it actually be useable? Thanks

Got myself a 365 at the weekend. Well chuffed with it.

All sorted now.

A mate just asked if I could help clear his driveway!

I am a complete amateur and I am curious as to why you sever the strap at 45 degrees rather than level?

How much could you do a 365 with a 20" sugihara solid pro light bar for?

I have got a 440 on a 15" bar which is basically a 435. It is a nice little saw to use and I am happy with it. I'm now getting a 365 to go with it.

I have been looking into getting a 365 with a 20" bar. I keep getting tempted by a 372 though. I have heard they are practically the same saw and the 365 can be turned into a 372 easily. Is it worth me splashing out on the extra for a 372?

No argument from me about it all being a nonsense!

For muttley9050

We do one or two new builds a year. Every new build our company has been involved with has had to be air tested for the last few years. I can't remember when it started. Building control always want trickle vents. Regs change so often I'm not sure even building inspectors keep up with it.

Does anyone know any cheap husqvarna dealers in the EU? I keep getting tempted by cheap husqvarna's on German eBay.

The vent doesn't need to be direct to the fire. Building regs on air tightness are a bit of a nonsense really. For regs it is necessary for all windows to be fitted with trickle vents and all bathrooms to have extractors. When the air test is done the vents/extractor grills are all shut or sealed with tape. What is the point of the building being air tight when all these leak points are normally open?!

Looks like I will go for the 365 then. The auto tune thing does unnerve me a bit. I've had enough bad experiences of computers in cars!

We always put in vents for any fire/ log burner. Even more important in a new build as the whole building will need to be air tested for leaks.

I'm a carpenter and have come across this problem. We fitted a cooker hood in a room with a wood burner and the burner fitter made a right fuss. He lit the burner and straight away turned the hood on full. Sure enough it put the fire out and drew smoke into the room from around the door seals, it actually was quite funny to watch. I'm sure if he had allowed the chimney to heat up and start to draw, it wouldn't have happened. To solve the problem we had to chop in 2 9x9 air bricks and disable the maximum setting on the fan before he was happy. At another more recent job, with an extractor hood in a kitchen with a log burner, I asked the burner fitter if it would be an issue due to our earlier problems and he said no. He didn't even check the burner with the extractor running. All he wanted was a standard air vent that is always fitted in a room with a log burner. So I guess it's pot luck on how fussy the log burner guy is.

I'm currently going through the same thoughts as you. I've got a husqvarna 440 and want to get a bigger saw. I've been thinking about a 365 but keep getting tempted by a 560.

Thanks for the replies. I was advised by pm that it is probably squirrel damage and this makes perfect sense as there are loads of squirrels here.

We have a beech tree that is around 5 metres high. I have noticed that there is large areas of bark missing. Please could I have some advice as to wether the tree is likely to survive? Thanks