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Everything posted by Bennovet

  1. I am on edge of village, only very smoket the first 10-15m mins while getting up to temp, then 4-5 hours of no smoke at all, it is wood gassification, not burning, which is very efficient and clean! Much better than stove..
  2. Hi, good question. I queried it many times before installation as I was leaning towards a 'stumpy'tank , reduced height 2250l. All the 'experts' at the time said you need 60l for each kW installed.. so 1000 it was. Which is probably absolutely fine, but I opened the fans a bit on boiler and now it can probably produce 25kW output.. To answer you question, if done again? I would go bigger! Also because I am not home a lot and more storage makes more sense then. (I am am having similar coversations with installers for my new house with MVHR and GSHP and a 10kWp solar PV (with 10kWh battery).. I want to be able to 'store'as much energy as possible, be it electric or heat.
  3. Thank you all for interest. Boiler will be going to a new home to heat soon[emoji106]
  4. Had a bit of interest, thank you! Was aiming for 2k, for the whole lot collected (from SY5). I can help dismantle. Still in daily use but will remove for serious buyer. Was installed 7 years ago and accredited for RHI. Has worked faultless, have simplified setup..
  5. The efficiency comes from the 'flat out' running,as it is air assisted wood gassification. Not burning.. I have opened the fan fully so it produces 25kW peak, whem installed it was set up to 18kW, you can also adjust the circulation pump speed (3 speeds) on the 3way valve. There is a thermostat to set an upper limit, the fan will shut off once reached and just does a small blow every few minutes to keep the fire/embers going.
  6. In winter once going (takes about 15min) ram it full (up to 45 cm logs) and then it will warm the whole house and the 1000ltr storage. If very cold top up after 4 hours. In spring, like just now, a full burn contains too much heat for storage tank so only load as much as gestimate to get tank up to temperature. I go up to 85C! The DHW runs through a heatexchanger, very efficient, still a warm shower when tank has dropped to 40. Heating runs directly through rads, tank and boiler. 1 low pressure system. When using combiboiler I just change all the valves and have to up the pressure from 1 bar to about 2. (Bypassing boiler and tank). Worked very well for the last 7 years! Never had to top up heating oil[emoji6]
  7. Just concerned new people wont be able to have log supply like myself.. I shove 2 ibcs through garage doors next to boiler. With loader tractor, with logs 2 years seasoned from my own wood 3 miles away... Even my wife still thinks it is complicated (after 7 years I am the only operator..) 4/5 bed house, using 18 full ibcs/yr. In summer surplus solar PV is heating storage tank so very little need to burn wood. Also still have combi boiler connected to system. Only used when I am away or when too busy to fire up. Needs a daily burn in winter. Set the fan fully open so would be about 25kW . It will burn all sorts once hot. Always start with paper shreds or cardboard and small bits of wood/bark. I only put well seasoned larch, oak, alder and chestnut through it. Never checked electric use but can only imagine is very low. Only 1x waterpump to run on low pressure system. (I don't use chimney fan) Think big useable double garage is a better selling point.. They get to keep the solar PV anyway. No electricity bill for another 12 years! (60p/kWh)
  8. Selling my complete biomass setup due to house sale. (GSHP in new house). Batch log burning. Still in daily use until sold/moving. Please PM for further info and offers. Location near Shrewsbury. Will throw in 12 IBC cages if wanted. Can help with dismantling and loading. Thought I advertise on here first as you guys have plenty of logs available[emoji6].
  9. You tell me[emoji848]. Got a fair collection building up! Need to go on a woodworking/furnture course.. Might make something nice for new build house.. got some oaks slabs drying for dining table.. Maybe make some walnut veneers to dress my Landy dash[emoji6]
  10. Done some more walnut yday[emoji106]1.8m long. 40-65 cm heartwood
  11. Wondered why you use the ladder after 1st cut off.. but I think I get it now. Will make the entry and exit on subsequent slabs a lot easier/straighter[emoji2] . Will try that when milling next?!
  12. Finished the beech today, last slabs were very nice, solid, no rot. All at 2.5". Up to farmer to store and dry, then we will see in 2 years what to do with it[emoji15]
  13. Whereabouts is it? Looks heavy.. I might get 3phase shortly..
  14. Bennovet


    Shropshire, near Wales. Could be a plan[emoji106]
  15. Bennovet


    Thanks Alec, good advise, .404 does always feel very strong! Even compared to 3/8 (on my 462). Also prefer filing with the bigger file! Full comp or skip ripping chain. When milling larch and walnut full comp goes well, on beech and oak very slow. Just wondering if skip would help clear dust out of kerf? Beech seems to blunt chain the fastest.. re sharpen after 3 full width slabs (3m long).
  16. Bennovet


    Like the look of the extension set for my mill, easy fix. Then the bar.. lo pro only goes on 3/8 chain? Which means a new sprocket to go with it. But might be cheaper chains and lot less sawdust?! Rollomatic or Duromatic? Currently have 36" duromatic. I dont have the winch kit but always but the log on a fair angle so milling downhill[emoji6] Spend 300,- on upgrade.. makes any bandsaw mill look very expensive..
  17. Bennovet


    Only a hobby though..
  18. Bennovet


    I use an old Stihl 076, loads of torque, low revving but thirsty. On .404 ripping chain. Indeed 36" Chilaskan.. was fine till now. Options: reduce walnut sides and cut 790mm wide slabs.. I dont have bigger trees myself anyway. (Milled a 30" oak tidy) If I go bigger.. either on same saw with skip chain? Additional oiler, slow, etc. Knowing me, i will want a bigger saw...(Got a 241 and 462 as cutting saws) Would like a bandsaw mill really, also have 2 trailer loads of 18" larch to mill for cladding, was meant to take to a local miller (woodmizer LT40). What entry level mill would suit my (hobby) needs. Was hoping to have 3phase power this summer but prob safer to get petrol/diesel
  19. Bennovet


    Challenge for the summer.. what to do with this bit of walnut.. 900mm wide, but my will will only do 790mm.. I have milled a bit from higher up tree last year. Was very nice. The lowest part coming out ground was a lot wider still but also had some rot. This looks very promising at 3m long..
  20. Some beech, slow job at 32" wide and 2.9m long. Surprising colour in there, bit of red in the heart even. Farmer is well surprised, nevere seen it done and amazed by the grain, colour etc..
  21. Haha, exactly that. Neighbour ask if I wanted big beech to mill or burn. Had 200,- offer from somebody to cut and take away for firewood. I said would try a 3m straight section, just to see what looks like. Bit of colour! Not a clue what sort of slabs to mill from here on in.. will max out on my 36" chainsaw mill. Took the dogs off 076 for extra 1"!
  22. He had most of the smaller bits for firewood. I helped ring up as he only has a handsaw[emoji15] . Quite some rot too, lots of hollow bits, the stump was also pretty rotten. He was going to burn the lot, I will return him some nice bits in couple of years..
  23. It literally fell into my field[emoji23], heavy.. this trunk weighed just over 1 tonne! Tractor on front wheels only[emoji6]
  24. Made a start, 3" slabs from here on in?? 700mm wide , 3m long Stupidly hit the screw holding the ladder in place on last run.. need a serious sharpen first.


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