Cuttup

Looking for a saw for aerial work to replace my (unbeatable) 346 XP 4.8 kg 2.5kW. What about the 545 Mk II? Lots of intermittent on/off work required. Anyone got any experience of this saw ? It's 5.3 kg 2.7 kW. I was hoping for something sub 5kg as we're none of us getting any younger. Could look at Stihl, but reluctant as the only ones I use are top handles saws so relucant to move though may consider it.

I think its the part where you stated: 'Well of course I said it was a tricky job etc(I lied)and we agreed a price of £375.00 for removing it. ' The '(I lied)' bit is something of a give away, and is generally associated with dishonesty. Your justification for the price charged sounds fair and reasonable, so trigger_andy's comments sound reasonable to me. Anyway, sound like both you and your client were happy with the outcome so that is good, and I've enjoyed reading your post, so thanks.

Haven't dealt with TPO's, but in Scotland, if you remove a tree in a Conservation Area (which places similar stipulations as a TPO) you need permission and if granted they normally state that a replacement tree must be planted. Interesting scenario with yours being a dead tree. As far a replacement planting, although they have stated 'adjacent' planting, why not enter into a conversation with them if you would rather plant it elsewhere? In my experience, tree officers are normally quite helpful, and have never beon too prescriptive about replanting location. When feeling contrary, I've wondered what would happen if, a year after planting a replacement tree, I went back and 'felled' it, being under 7cm dbh t in theory there would be no restrictions. However, I'm not actually wired that way, just think it would be an interesting point in case law - there may even be a precedent, who knows?!

Are there issues insuring old machines like these form a H&S point of view?

Aye, they are all .325. Ok good advice guys. Appreciate it. And of course a 450 would be a downgrade 😉! Was there ever a finer saw than the 346?

Morning all. This seems like a daft question but...is it possible to run 0.058 gauge bar on a 450? I've been running 346 XP's and considering an upgrade, but seems like 450 runs a 0.050 which would render a load of bars and chains I've got useless. Cheers

My friend has a hopeless Husky 236 which has all the usaul problems with starting/chain tensioner etc. Disappointing to see such a poor saw under the Husqvarna marque. Having spent over a hundered quid on a service, it's as bad as it ever was. Time for a new saw. There's a 100 pound difference between the 440 and 450 but then not a huge amount more for either the 455 or 545. Anyone got any actual experience of these saws? I' trying to get him to spend around £400 rather than half that amount. The saw is for home firewood use generally 8-15" diameter. Burns a lot of wood but probably only uses the saw half a dozen times a year. Thoughts please.

I did about 4 years arb in Oz. Mainly Melbourne. Found it easy to pick up work. I may have had a bit more experience than you by the sound of things, but I was along side many who had greater years experience than me but were actually pretty poor performers. If you're willing to work and to learn (you've obviously got training) it shouldn't be hard to get a job. One word of caution - I'm not up to speed on visas anymore but I worked alongside a couple of English lads at one company and the boss (literally one of the worst people I've ever had the misfortune of working for) had them by the short and curlys on a 457 visa. He tried to butter me up and get me onto one, and I began the process but bailed as his true colours came out. It cost me hundreds of dollars to get out of it but I did so just in the nick of time before the application was lodged. At the time, you could get sponsored by a company which is all great but some bosses literally exploit you. On that visa you had, I think, 28 days to get another sponsor or you were done - not a good position to be in if you've got a lease or have a girlfriend or whatever. So you'd be wise to think twice about getting stuck with one company. It used to be you could go in on a year holiday visa and work for one employer for 3 months (which they then increased to 6 months) and then you could extend you're holiday visa by another 12 months. The visa situation may have all changed, so do your research. To summarise I wouldn't think twice - get out there! Watch out for the widow makers (eucalypts that drop tree sized limbs on beautiful calm days with no warning) and don't be tempted into long term visa arrangements unless you know who you're dealing with. Good luck.

Alright nice one. I'll give it some thought.

I tried L& S who are after 200 for the barrel. I like the sound of the meteor. Its not an X torq so the 372 option sounds smart. Thanks a lot guys

Are the replacement parts easily found on ebay as crap as the price would indicate? They seem to range from about £30 to £60 compared to a genuine part closer to £200. Has anyone bought Farmertec for instance? Its for an old saw so you'll appreciate the temptation of going for something less than £100 but £30 just sounds nuts. that said when it implodes nd destroys the crankcase it won't look like such a bargain !! Cheers

How would you say better? Handling/knotability/longevity. I've been using New England but fancy a change.

After a new rope. Has anyone tried or have an opinion on Stein Utility ACR 12.4 mm compared with say, Marlow Vega 11.7? I don't climb every day and tend to favour DRT. Cheers PS if this thread already exists can somebody please direct me to it - I can't find it

I want a 16 m lowering rope. Obviously there's a fair range on the market but few seem to comply with any standards. Does any body know the legal (insurance) ramifications of this? I asked Marlow about their Draco who responded that as it was a polyester rope it is not required to meet a standard. I find this amazing. Teufelberger are applying European Directive 2006/42/EC to their Siris range. Not sure about the American brands so questions: 1. Does a rope need to be compliant with a European standard to pass LOLER/insurance needs 2. Does anybody know where this information would be documented? I've done various searches but can't seem to find anything specific on the subject. Cheers

Nikk. Do not buy a 200T (or any other tophandles saw)!! I'm sure it was a comment intended in jest, but just incase you see a good price on one and think 'I'm sure somebody recommended one of those...'

Agreed. I made clear to the tree owner that this was not my field of expertise and any advice given will be general in nature. What I'm trying to achieve is a point where the client will be able to determine whether or not he needs professional advice e.g. an arb consultant/lawyer or if this can dealt with between himself and the LA

Wee cuts on the side (need to watch how you spell that) is what we call them. I've never known them to be put above the backcut, as it's already cut - if the wood is going to hold or tear it will be from below the back cut / scarf. I agree with previous post that you are weakening the hinge if cut above - if I'm picturing this correctly. Does anyone use the term scarf for gob?

I'm slightly puzzled (though not yet nervous...) if not for cutting up trees then for cutting up what? Venison?

Thanks again for comments. I do not have all of this information hence the reason I haven't supplied it. As it so goes, the tree is owned by the person who owns the property on the same land (garden) in central Scotland. Incidentally, you have come to the root of the problem (for me) as if there are no restrictions other than some people from the council verbally saying 'you can't touch that tree' then I don't see what authority that carries. As mentioned the building/planning stage of the process seems like the logical place to start. I hadn't considered that until I read comments on here - so thanks for those who have made constructive suggestions.

What do you envisage using the saw for Nikk? Felling? (what size if trees) cutting up wood already on the ground? Firewood?

Agreed the 365 isn't the lightest but for a cheaper yet robust saw that pulls through more than its fair share it's a firm favourite of mine. Light in comparison to 576 and upwards I guess is what I was driving at... If I have gauged the situation correctly, Nikk does not have a lot of chainsaw experience. Could be the right saw for instance if doing a lot of firewood. Yes bar = blade and cc = engine capacity in cubic centimetres funnily enough. (not strictly the best guide to power etc) I particularly like the sharpest saw in the truck comment Mr. Sheppard. Isn't snedding 13" Sitka a 395 a total B****** though!!

Thanks for comments. I am told the tree is not in a conservation area, nor does it have a TPO. Of course, retrospectively, the simplest thing may have been to remove the tree - most of us probably have PhDs in Hindsight. I agree the problem at this stage is perception, but how many of us are prepared to state 'That tree is safe'? Certainly not I. It is a mature oak perhaps 15-20 m tall. Have not been made aware what the building conditions were - this sounds relevant and I will try and find out. The gentleman concerned is worried that AT SOME POINT the tree may pose a danger to his property, and given the proximity to the building, I am inclined to agree. To try and make clear, I believe the LA came round with regards to the building warrant and during that site visit stated that the tree was, to all intents and purposes, untouchable - whether ior not that has been formalised with a TPO as yet, I am unsure. Again, my sympathies lie with the owner. The tree is in no way unique or unusual for the area or indeed the property which has a number of mature oak on it. I stated to him that, in my opinion, the tree at this time, requires no work, not with standing major deadwood, with my usual caveat that it may fall over in the next storm who knows? Is the LA allowed to enter a property and effectively TPO it? What about buildings insurance - it may be that the tree was never mentioned previously and now the owner realises that it is a possible threat for which he may not be covered. Hope this makes the picture a little clearer.

With you all the way 372 is alegend

Meant to say...if you're only getting one saw, I would go medium range around 50-60cc, you can get throufggh a lot with that and its not too cumbersome. German or Swedish, whatever floats your logs.

Apart from the excellent advice already offered...I use the lightest possible saw that is big enough for the task. Husqvarnas all the way for me, but whatever brand you use , similar principles apply. 15" softwood? a 346 is fine. 15" hardwood I'd go a 365. If you're regularly getting into bigger stuff like hardwood firewood >20" I would consider getting something with more power. You learn when a saw is struggling so why push a wee saw to its limits? I also recommend using the shortest bar as is sensible. I never run the max size bar for a given saw as default, only when totally necessary e.g. a massive tree, I've got a 36" bar which goes on the 395, but then I'm straight back to something more sensible like 24 at soonest opportunity.