JosephD
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Everything posted by JosephD
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I am a climber who is looking for work in the north east and particularly the Northumberland area. got my level 3 extended diploma in arboriculture and my CS30 , CS31 , CS38 and CS39 can drive and got my own climbing gear,p.p.e and saws aswell tel num: 07525441355
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i have herd different theories from different people , at college they said that you should be able to just see the bottom of the DL and at work i was told that you are not meant to see the bottom
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using my husky t540xp today and realised that the chain tension was a little lose so i switched it off and then re-tensioned it. just wanted to know are you meant to just see the bottom of the drive links when you pull the chain up after its been retensioned? OR is the bottom of the drive link meant to be hidden in the grove? and also i put a glove on to pull the chain back and forward to see if it ran freely and its a bit of a struggle to do with one hand but quite easy to do with 2 hands, does this mean that the chain is too tight?
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<p>Hi , i saw your post 3 weeks ago about looking for part time work in northumberland.</p>
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<p>i am newly qualified tree surgeon/climber with a year or so experience and have me own p.p.e , climbing gear and 2 chainsaws and was wanting to know if you are still looking for someone to work for you.</p>
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<p>i live in morpeth and have my own transport so if your interested , give me a ring on 07525441355.</p>
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<p>Cheers.</p>
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Was walking through the woods today walking my dog and was looking at some of the trees up close at the bark to see if i could see any old tree pruning wounds such as 'flush cuts' just out of interest i was wanting to know how to identifiy a flush cut? can anyone help describe to me what to look out for when trying to find one of these cuts? Cheers.
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Newly qualified tree climber looking for part-time or full-time work in the north-east/Northumberland area, got my CS30,CS31,CS38,CS39 got my own p.p.e , climbing gear , ground saw , top handle saw and obtain a full driving licence. have had over a year experience in the tree surgery industry and done plenty of climbing work. contact num : 07525441355
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saw this book online and was wondering if anyone on here has read it and would recommend it? its the follow-up from 'the Tree Climbers Companion' which i have already got and must say is a great book. the 2nd edition was published about 15 years ago and tried looking for the first edition online but cant find it anywhere. is there that much difference between the guide and the companion? and is it worth getting , it is a bit pricey so want to know other people opinions before i decide.
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Ok so i have my own tree climbing gear which i have had for about a year now , and have used it at college and for the odd job here and there , but since i have started my new tree surgery job as a climber about 3 weeks ago i have been insused with my own climbing gear while working for them. they have issued my everything so i dont need to use my own and it the company policy to use there gear and not to use mine incase something goes wrong with my gear when im using it then they cant be held responsible. So my gear will be in the bag not being used very often and just wondering if there is a certain time limit that a climbing kit can be fit for use until it is not suitable to use , my gear is in good condition and i check it everythime i climb on it before and after. is it just a case of how well you look after it the longer it will last? and since mine is not being used it will be safe to use for a long time.
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you might be right TGB. maybe i spilt a little oil on the exhaust then topping up the tank , thanks
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no , its not brand new
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so i got out my stihl ms 211 today , fuelled it then fired it up to check that everything was working correctly. The saw was running for no longer than a minute when i was checking the chain break , oiling and tick over and was making sure if it was idling correctly then i switched it off and put it on the ground , then i noticed that i little bit of clear smoke was coming off the front of the saw where the exhaust was , the smoke only lasted for about 20 seconds till it stopped and i put the saw back away again. just checking if this is normal so i know that if there is anything wrong then i can get it sorted before i cut wood again.
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i have a husqvarna t540xp top handle and which i have had for about 2 months now and its going great. it was imported from the usa and is autotune and came with a 2 year warrenty but im quessing that means nothing since it i am in the uk. if the worst was to happen and it is in need of repair would i be able to take it to my local husqvarna dealer to get it repaired? or will they not take it since it is an american saw? and also since it is autotune i have heard that you cant fix it yourself and that may be a problem for them also. since its autotune and american will it cost more than it would if it was a uk saw? and if so how much roughly? p.s are the uk husqvarna t540xp's autotune aswell?
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don't know alot about cankers but they are caused by bacteria or fungus and form a tumour like growth on a certain area on the tree and there is no cure as far is am aware. what can be done if a tree has a canker? if the canker is on a branch can you just prune the branch off? i know that this is not likely to stop the infection but other than that do you just wait and see what happens and see if the tree fights it off itself? and also what species are prone to cankers just for me to know
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i have a husqvarna t540xp top handle chainsaw and the first time i fired it up and did my pre-start checks it there was lots of oil coming round the chain and was covering all the inside of the side plate , so i turned the oil flow screw all the way round to reuce the oil flow and that was that problem sorted. i turned the chainsaw oil flow screw all the way round so it could not go any further and now when i check the oil on the saw when i first start it up i can see it but is there a certain amount that should come off? or is it ok just to be able to see it coming off?
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is this the book your talking about david?
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i have an old echo top handle chainsaw in my shed which has not been used for at least 10 years and i don't plan on using it either because it has NO Chainbreak. Im not sure when it was made though because i dont know when chainbreaks were first put on top handle saws , i only know that ground saws were fitted with chainbreaks in the early 70s but they were not like the chanbreak on saws now where it is easy to engage with the back of your hand.
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Cheers Chris
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found on an acer if it is honey fungus would the appropriate action be to remove the tree before the fungus spreads and weakens the tree?
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I bought that item 2 weeks ago sipped from usa to my house and i have used it a few times already and it is doing great , no problems with it so far (hopefully i wont have any problems with it anytime soon)
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Thanks si36 , glad im not the only one who has heard of that method. just wanted to mention it on here to see if anyone else had heard of it. stephen blair clearly dosnt know much about the old techniques of tree surgery
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Heard a couple of guys who looked in there 40s talking about a technique that they used to do called spiral climbing. didnt catch much what they were saying about it but the bits that i herd were about climbing round the branches and the rope would grip if you fell and catch you. as im young and just starting out in this industry i dont know anything about this but i know alot of you guys on here will. can anyone clear this up and tell me about it ? , and im guessing the reason why no one does it now because it wasnt safe? but was it a good technique at the time?
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Thanks Guys!
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Hi there are a couple of questions that i want to know in terms of tree law that i need clearing up on. i know that is should know these questions since i am just starting in this industry but i just want to know 100% answers to these. 1.if a tree has a tpo and i fill out the application form and send it off how long can the council take to respond to you weather you can or cant work on that tree? 2.if a tree which has a tpo or/and a conservation area on it and is dangerous do you have to ring the council before you take it down just to let them know ? or do you just take it down straight away as soon as possible and ring the council after to tell them that you have taken it down?
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yes there was alot of weight at once side of the tree , didn't notice any damage on the base of the stump tho. thanks for the diagnosis
