Dan Forsh
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Everything posted by Dan Forsh
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For what it's worth, in situations like that I avoid the screwdriver method. I loosen the nut and wind it so it's flush with the end of the crank, then I pick the saw up by the flywheel (letting the weight of the engine hang off the flywheel) and give the end of the crank a couple smart raps with a steel hammer. Note not anything soft like brass or plastic mallet. I think it needs to be a steel hammer to properly shock it off. Works for me anyway.
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Nice one Ray! So I take it you connect onto the impulse line to pressurise/vac the saw then? I've got one in bits at the moment, so it looks like I'll be fabbing something similar. Cheers, Dan
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Thanks Rich, I priced up the one used on the cut off saws, but really wasn't going to justify it based on the few I do. I'd be interested to see the plate you've made if you get the chance to post a pic.
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Quick question for the lads regularly working on Stihls, how do you go about pressure testing xx1 saws and TS410s? I have the kit to do normal ones but these two inlet port models need some special box-like attachment that connects don't they? Looking at prices for them I'm sure people have other ways of doing it.
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As in super glue it in place? This one is going on ebay as soon as it's finished so I'm not up for a real bodge job. If I was keeping it, no worries, but I don't want to sell something I wouldn't be happy buying myself.
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I'll have to look into this Seal-all stuff, not used it before. I was thinking of removing the hose and giving it a damn good degreasing then wapping a bit of red dirko around it before letting it set for a few days. Assumed this would make for a snugger fit.
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It's probably this one I bought this on ebay a few years back. You can probably just get a bit of flat plate, drill it out for the crank and the three holes then fit bolts through the plate and use a three leg puller on it.
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By way of illustration:
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I have a feeling that I have read about this on here somewhere at some point as being a common fault. I have a low hours MS211 in bits at the moment. I don't know it's history, but for as long as I've had it, it sits in a puddle of bar oil. Stripping it down for a full clean up/overhaul, have the engine housing sat on paper and within an hour it's pissed out a good amount of oil yet again. looks to be coming out at the hose where it connects to the oil tank. Pulled it out and wiped it down. Inspected it and can't see any issues, but after refitting it, it went back to being incontinent. Anyone advise? Cheers, Dan
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It's been a while since I messed about with one of those orrible things, but looking at the holes in that clutch hub I would think a puller is required.
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Any kind of torsion spring of a similar size should do it with a little modification. Have you got anything knocking about that you could try? Trigger springs usually have that same short bend on one end, so try something like 1117 182 4500 they're only pence to buy.
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There's been twin cylinder from Echo(?), there's been a wankle from Dolmar and I think there were early diesels from Jobu Stihl now do fuel injection too.
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My comment wasn't really aimed at you either; yours was milder than Spud's, but both were deserved IMO. I'm gonna guess at the MS200T based only on my limited experience of them:001_smile:
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I thought the MS181 suggestion was a piss take. Stihl 026/260 plenty about, easy to fix and professional in build quality.
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I know you lads regard yourselves as A team p*** takers, but I've got to agree that there's a certain misplaced cockiness about this post that deserved it.
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Could that be the symptoms of a dodgy accelerator pump or was that just on the 200T?
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Right here we are. Strangely, these I took with my phone, the ones I tried with my camera were crap. I know there's still plenty transfer in there, but I stopped trying to clean it once I saw the grooves. So what do you think?
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Well, I'd appreciate a 2nd opinion before I stump up for the full replacement. I'll try to get a couple pics up, if my photography skills are up to it. Cheers
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Nice to hear about a straightforward fix. Can I ask where you bought your P&C from? I got round to trying to clean mine's cylinder last night and found a couple nasty grooves right up the bore, so I'm now looking to replace the lot. Loads of kits on ebay, but it's knowing which ones are decent quality.
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This is my oldest saw, about 1967 Stihl Lightning These photos are from when I bought it a few years back. It's actually in a box in bits at the moment (has been for about 4 years) awaiting restoration. I'll get round to it.
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Basically if it looks anything like the one I took out of mine.
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If you were able to see the rings through the exhaust port, did they look stuck in the landings? They should appear to move up and down just a little bit if you rock the flywheel back and to a bit. If the ally of the piston looks like it's smeared over them and they don't move, then you probably aren't getting any compression.
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What's the score with this existing account business? Is it just L & S or is it wider than that? I recall trying to price something up on there a while back and getting the message that I could only buy stuff over the counter due to Stihl's policy. Made me chuckle at the time as I just assumed that they were applying the new machine policy to anything Stihl, I was only after a filter or something. Either way, I too seem to have registered for an account sometime in the past:biggrin:
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I get a good enough sense of achievement just getting the buggers to run again:biggrin: I'll leave the frankensaws to others
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Thanks for that. I'll see where I'm up to once I've got the new crankcase and attempted a clean up on my cylinder.
