Dan Forsh

Well that was a waste of a couple hours rebuild time and a pair of oil seals. The crank gasket came out of the blister packet with a crease in it. I thought it would be okay and even put some Dirko on it for added security, apparently not. Any chance I can split this without ruining the oil seals? Maybe just the one?

Cheers Steve, it's your post 7900 if anyone else is wondering. I actually managed it in an hour and a half, so not too bad. After dremelling two slots in it, but not getting to the point of it splitting, I managed to get the inner race back in with enough balls that it held and I could push it out with the arbor press, maybe the slots made it easier, I'm not sure, but it's out!

Anyone have any tips on the best way to remove the outer race of a crank bearing from the case halve that doesn't require better eyesight than mine and the next two hours using a Dremel and diamond burr? Trying to replace the crank bearings on a saw for someone and was initially happy that both bearings stayed in the cases when I split them (I always prefer this to trying to get a bearing off the crank), unfortunately the clutch side bearing was shot and decided the spit out the inner race and bearings when I turned it over to take the oil seal out.

Best be quick! Stihl Ms170 Chain Saw | eBay

As far as I'm aware, it shouldn't drop. Either the inlet needle is worn or diaphragms and gaskets need checking. Or what you are pressurising it with is leaking maybe?

Hi, Just to be clear; an overhaul kits is usually just the diaphragms and gaskets, a repair kit is these plus needle, metering lever, spring, gauze and welch plugs. It's important to understand that a lot of these kits are universal in terms of they are intended to cover a few different carb models from that particular manufacturer's range so may have multiple gaskets and multiple diaphragms included. Determine which ones you need based on what you are taking off the carb. If you have all this in the repair kit then replace with new all those parts supplied apart from the welch plugs unless you know what you are doing with these. Generally you shouldn't need to touch these unless the carb is really bunged up due to age, abuse. The other items plus a can of carb cleaner and/or an ultrasonic bath will be enough in most cases. Otherwise everything adw has said will guide you. If you don't understand what he means by four stroking, it's a burbling sound (too rich) just YouTube tuning a 2 stroke engine for more detailed info.

Get one of these Problem solved!

True, but I think the original post was more about him being told it was against the law to do it.

One here: KAWASAKI IGNITION COIL 2117-17034 Fits Td18 Td20 Tg18 Tg20 Tg24 Tg25 Tg33 - Strimmer/Brushcutter Accessories Find Strimmer/Brushcutter Parts Buy UK Bit pricey! Or maybe this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KA-211717034-KAWASAKI-COIL-ASSY-IGNITION-21171-7034-Kawasaki-Engine-Parts-/131424535446?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e99834396 But not if you want it quick

The Aspen man should be along shorty to share in your good news and once again extoll the virtues of Aspen fuel. I think it's a bit like the Candyman where you have to say his name three times before he appears, so here goes... Aspen, Aspen, Aspen!

No worries, glad you got sorted.

I might have one, you are talking about the white plastic cover that sits behind the sprocket right? You'll need to give me a couple days to remember where the hell I've put it though. I know it's off an 028, but I'd still need to check the part no. once I've found it.

Been having a similar conversation with someone on AS about this. Lots of people on there say the Mityvac MV8500 is the one to get (does pressure and vac) Cheapest via ebay/amazon seems to be about £70. Depends how much you are looking to spend based on how much you think you would be using it. That's the price for the kit, if just the pump and gauge, I think it's the MV8510 around £50.

Could be the accelerator pump in the carb.

The kit from tesgol looks good. I'm just waiting on one of his Teflon coated pistons to rebuild an 044. I put one in an 066 for someone about a year ago and the owner tells me its running well. Sounds like you've already hit the button on the kit in your link, but it's a couple quid cheaper if you buy it from his ebay shop HYWAY STIHL MS260 026 44.7 CYLINDER KIT NEW NISIC TEFLON PISTON 1 YR WARRANTY | eBay

You will need to prise out one of the little circlips at the end of the gudgeon pin and then push the pin out on the direction of the clip you've removed. Some are easy, some are a bit stiff to move. Usually push them out with a similar diameter dowel or something like that. if it's stiff light taps with a small hammer on the end of your dowel will shift it. This one on ebay seems to be all Meteor, some bundle a Meteor piston up with an unknown brand cylinder. Stihl 026,MS 260 cylinder kit,44,7 mm,Made in Italy by METEOR,OEM quality | eBay

Okay, I was joking I'm not that thick! Thanks for the suggestions though, grinding the socket sounds like a good one. I'll have another go at it over the weekend

Clockwise you say....

Anyone got any good tips to shift a stubborn clutch off a 044? Seems to be something about this model, the last one I couldn't shift caused me to buy an impact driver which sorted that one in short order. Thinking I'd be in for a similar short contest I gave up on the socket and strong arm as soon as I could see I wasn't getting anywhere. However, this bugger won't shift to the point where it's chewing up the inside of my impact socket and starting to round the head on the clutch hub too. I've given up before it's totally shagged. Any ideas, wd40 and leave it a week, heat it? Cheers, Dan

Depending on your tolerance for boring mundane tasks. You could leave out the chemicals and just try sanding it out with the wet and dry. I did an 026 with similar, if not worse, transfer than yours the other week and I'd say I had it done ready to go back on within an hour. No fingerprints left at the end of it. I think I was using 140 grit and finished off with 400 grit, just used water and turned the wet n dry regularly. You can get your Meteor piston on ebay easily enough.

Noticed that the websites (both) had disappeared earlier this year. I thought they were having issues with Brand infringements (Google brings up an entirely different business if you look for ms) After the name change, and the new web site appeared, I just assumed they had been bought out; if you look up the contact us page it gives Rocwood as the business behind it. If it's true about the original business going pop, it's a shame as I used them for several years and I always found Andy Holtham a nice, helpful guy to deal with. I'd left off playing about with saws for a couple years until last year, but I did noticed that the last few times I dealt with them, it seemed like it was always someone different. Just assumed due to expansion of the business.

I was watching that 281XP, did he really only charge £4.89 postage? I had one a few years back, nice solid saw. If your oil pump is knackered, give me a shout as I've got a new one knocking around somewhere. Bought it for mine then managed to fix the existing one.

High revving for no apparent reason usually points to an air leak. You need to stop using it and have it pressure and vac tested before it does significant damage.

I'm assuming he's saying it after an hour of frustration and sore fingers!

An 028 only 7 years old? Do you mean a 280?