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A Pettersen-Firewood&Chip

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Posts posted by A Pettersen-Firewood&Chip

  1. Well got 1200 40/60 bare roots to plant next week. Normally do this sort of work by hand, this time I'm thinking of using my mini digger with a small 6" bucket on to dig all the holes (hardly even a scoop with the digger- just flick the turf over 6" deep) and have someone following behind planting and back filling, plus another following with the stakes and guards.

    I'm in two minds whether I think it will be quicker using this method with the digger versus everything manually.

    What system do you use- those who plant woodlands?

    Cheers

     

    Would a post hole borer not be cheaper and better than a mini digger??

  2. Does anyone know of a template for a Tree survey report??

     

    I am looking to change my report layout and make a template so its easier to both fill in on site and type up when I am back in the office. At the minute I create mine on Word forever changing the layout to make it specific to each site.

     

    I am trying to make a general template which works and covers everything i.e 1 to 10 trees+.

     

    Anyone have a template I can look at or any info that can help?

     

    I am busy working on it as and when I have time so always keep thinking of new layouts which is forever changing and its annoying :001_rolleyes:

     

    I think I am over complicating it :blushing:

     

    Thank you :001_smile:

  3. :thumbup::thumbup:

    To echo what I said via pm-

    I dryadeus on our native oak is generally no big deal, very rarely a cause for felling. In this situation a half day price for a survey and report from a suitably insured local surveyor would...

    1. defer liability in the event of tree failure

    2. quite possibly recommend no/minimal work to the tree = cheaper than felling, along with other benefits such as habitat retention/amenity value etc from a tree the size of which could not be replaced in our lifetimes.

    3. not include picus or other advanced decay detection; although this is very unlikely to be needed. A simple nylon mallet and an experienced ear would do!

     

    Maybe someone from your neck of the woods on this forum could recommend a surveyor or help you?

     

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Arbtalk mobile app

     

    Spot on :001_smile:

    :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

  4. Try to get an advanced tree survey to see the extent of the decay i.e PICUS :thumbup1:. From that you can decide if its severe then remove it or if the tree has compartmentalised it then you can probably do a crown reduction to limit any risk to the surrounding buildings :)

     

    this should give your more information on the decay and health of the tree at the infected point. This will cost a bit but can save you 100's in removing it :001_smile:

     

    Just a thought :001_smile:

  5. have a look at the precision grinder from chainsawbars

     

    Thank you Gnome :thumbup: I will be buying one. They do really good videos as well to demonstrate the products :thumbup1:

     

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aT5shPjj-i8]chainsawbars.co.uk - Granberg 12volt precision ginder - G1012XT - YouTube[/ame]

     

     

    Thank you Hegdesparrow, I think I will try the granberg as it should do the trick both in the workshop and on site. :001_smile:

     

    Thanks for the help guys, me hand sharpening all these chains are over :lol:

  6. Mine is now in the bin. An expensive error. Inferior product for the Pro in my opinion. Has a horrible looking chain which didn't last long.

     

    Buy a couple of new chain loops and use the old ones for any rough work instead.:001_cool:

     

    Good idea :001_smile:

     

     

    Thank you guys for the input :001_smile:

     

    I have a lot of chains to sharpen so was looking for an efficient alternative to hand sharpening :blushing:

  7. I have tons of big diameter silver birch logs that you can get nice clean rings out of?? I also have some big sycamore rings if this interests you? I am not to far away from you I am in Shurlock Row, near twyford, holyport area. Your more than welcome to stop by and have a look :) PM me and I will give you my mobile and address

  8. Okey Dokie

     

    Been fiddling with my website for the last week or so, found a new theme and it works well, I think anyway. Been trying to homogenise our presence across facebook, website, youtube and google+ with the appearance side of things.

     

    Thoughts please.

     

    I am currently unsure of the facebook likebox? But open to opinions.

     

    KENT Gardening & Tree Surgery | Kent Tree Surgeon | Kent Gardener

     

    Great website, very nice colours and layout and I really like the "what we have been up to recently" :thumbup1:

  9. What you can do is sell a briquette for customers to use to start the log fire instead of playing around with kindling ;)

     

    For example one load of logs you sell a pack of 10 briquettes to get them started.

     

    Has had no impact on me yet my firewood is going faster than I can keep up :)

  10. Great thank you.

     

    Is it normall for some training firms not to do a specific course/training?? They do the rest but not this one?

     

    it seems quite odd not to do the CS32 as most trees felled are over 380mm.

     

    Some training firms may not have any sites that they can use to fell large trees as practice, is probably the most common reason. Ask them if not google will help :thumbup1:

  11. Hello I'm new to the forum.

     

    I'm currently undergoing the CS30/31 (CLMC 44x) training course and assesment.

     

    After completing this course I've been recommended to do the CS38/39 (CLMC 48x)

     

    I've looked on thee training website and there's no sign of the CS32 course.

     

    Is it a problem to do the 38/39 without doing the CS32?

     

    many thanks

     

    You can do 38 with no previous qualifications.

     

    32 is large felling.

     

    :thumbup:

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