Ohlins

Gives added flexibility when off road compared to 50mm ball.

You can see how handy it in such instances. .

Great stuff...you can see an image in the link below. My trailer its locked so my hitch rotates.... http://dixon-bate.co.uk/products/gb/pintles/23-dixon-bate-35t-universal-coup-.html For those with towing eyes that swivel you can see where and how it's locked with a pin.

Hi Justme I've no idea....comes standard on army trucks put out to pasture to civilians.......one to look up. Unless otherwise stated I couldn't see why they wouldn't be as the army drive with these on public roads and they're not removed when disposal comes around? .

You can see how with us having to search out forest wood how the swivel hitch would rotate some what to allow the trailer to move over rough ground. .

As an aside and which could also assist others in not having the same sort of experience, although I tow a Sankey trailer with a NATO hitch, this hitch will work with any trailer with a towing eye. This hitch swivels thus allowing the trailer to turn over with out it in turn turning over the tow vehicle. Some trailers have the towing eye that swivels so there's a lock on the hitch which keeps it in place and allows the trailer to flip over that way. If you check the video link below at 8 mins and 5 seconds you'll see a Sankey flipping over. The other good thing about this hitch is it's quick to connect and disconnect. I hope this helps somewhat. .

As an aside and to be fair some of the Britpart stuff works OK. There's not a big list IMO but I would install discs and the odd exhaust along with indicator stalks and their starter motors are good for the Defender. Other simple stuff like seat covers,bench seats,nuts,bolts and screws etc you can't go far wrong. I never use Britpart oil seals always opting for Corteco who make the seals for Land Rover. Other than that I'd use Bearmach and I usually get Devon 4X4 to supply me. All the best .

Eve'nin.... Rakeway developed and then made the first 250 kits for Britpart..when the contract was completed they cleared off with the measurements etc and outsourced to a cheaper country. I must dig out the pics of the exploded clutch disc. All the best .

If it were I,I'd get a solid mass flywheel installed only because next time it's cheaper to replace the clutch. A V8 fibre disc will fit onto a solid flywheel. Wouldn't do any harm to price a Britpart solid flywheel..if it only comes in a kit these days bin the rest and get the V8 disc and a thrust bearing. A few years ago I replaced the clutch on a friends 130 which had only covered 5000kms on a Britpart solid flywheel and clutch the garage installed. The rivets all came out of the fibre disc. I didn't find any great difficulty with other R380 box configuration to remove. The flywheel was a good part. Whilst you're at it and the engine is at chest height why not check the fuel cooler for corrosion,replace the rear crank shaft seal,check the fuel pressure regulator for any leaks and check that the exhaust manifold is not warped along with the studs being all OK.

My first thoughts too.....I've seen a Britpart clutch explode just like that on a 130

It'll be listed on the VIN alloy plate on your clutch master cylinder .....my ex army standard 110 is listed as 6550kgs. Therefore that's what I'd have to prove,if stopped,as legal....any guff from the 'net is invalid. .

Reference winches.....I'll be looking for a winch at some stage. If you do a google search on winch tests then you can see how they perform against each other with some performing bad and making a poor effort. All this to say the magazines that test seem to use the same benchmark within the testing arena. Have a look here and you'll see they are well tested indeed. What ever make one is looking for I'm sure you can come across the same standard test to see what's what? Some winches really are terrible..... Australian 'Battle of the Winches' .

Started felling trees in my neck of the woods yesterday...the old LR was put to work. 2.5 stères in the 110 and the Sankey takes 1.5 stères.

I change my oil and 3 filters every 5000kms both on my 200tdi and 300tdi(400,000kms and no oil used in between changes).....10W50 fully synthetic(I can get it here for €8.50 for two litres) 10W40 for the Winter.....or not,as and when I can be bothered. At these intervals the engine is kept clean enough inside without having to use nay engine flush IMO.

lol...The usual 'Brit Abroad' complaining I suspect with a "It's not like that in the UK you know"....without researching... For info read here as to how the French call it....... Corde, stère, m3: quelle unité de vente pour le bois de chauffage? | Se chauffer au bois | S'informer sur le bois en Bretagne .