woodyguy

progreen.co.uk

Just a heads up that Asulox has been licensed from 1st July to October for use on bracken this summer. Get it whilst you can!!

do it now would be good

Cut it back to healthy growth with an upward pointing bud and it will grow away into a good shape.

Walnuts are very frost sensitive so can colour up red if under stress from weather in spring. Many plants go a bit red for a while if things are a bit cold for them. No long term harm though.

Strange choice of potion to kill it. Any tree that suckers freely from the roots needs a systemic herbicide like Glyphosate or equivalent. An overdose of fertiliser, such as Amcide, is unlikely to do much. Yes they are hard to kill in this situation, but only something that translocates throughout the plant stands any chance.

It's a bit ironic but the smaller your chainsaw the more sharpening you will have to do. So the less experienced and interested you are in chainsaws the more hands on you have to provide. So look at Rob's excellent videos on his website on sharpening chains. Its pretty easy and if you're not getting better results with a guide then you're doing it wrong. Stick to Stihl chain, its good and for the price saving not worth looking elsewhere. Cutting with very small chains blunts very quickly but you'll need a much bigger saw before you start using 3/8 chain which lasts better.

Split it through the heart wood (as you've done). Paint the end grain with PVA and stack it with good air flow in the shade with no sun. It will dry over a couple of years and turn lovely. I've been turning some sweet chestnut of similar size and its great.

My advice - buy a good metal detector!!

Interesting discussion. Clearly the argument is really about what is regarded as a nuisance in custom and practice eg branches damaging roof tiles and making roof leak vs right to light, water and a view which are very iffy and probably wouldn't stand up in court. I guess what always interests me is being confident enough in what I do that when they consult a lawyer he tells them to forget it. So I'd prefer to stick to broken roof tiles rather than parched lawns.

I'm burning a couple of tonnes of rowan at present. Lovely firewood. Also turned a bit and has a nice dark heartwood.

Make up a pot of potting compost and sharp sand equal amounts mixed in. Dip in the rooting hormone (works better if fresh) and push in around the edges of the pot and water well. Put a polythene bag over them and put them in a sheltered shady spot. May not root as a bit late with the leaves coming out but may do. Have to say though that my money would be on drifted selective herbicide causing growth distortion, especially as it is the lower branches.

Root a cutting of the growth and see if you've got a new variety?

They just aren't interested. I've reported many things and they both don't get back to you and rarely cancel the listing.

I think the idea is that plums and cherries that are both prone to infections should be pruned when actively growing, so that the cuts heal quickly and are less likely to get infected. But... in reality that could equally apply to any tree and the established wisdom of winter pruning has no real evidence behind it. What is most important is not cutting right back to the trunk and allowing the tree to compartmentalise the cut surface quickly. Some trees like sycamore and birch will "bleed" profusely if cut back in spring when the sap is rising. That's the only problem I've ever come across.