Mark_Skyland

It has no clutch, the drive is taken directly from the motor. You're correct that the drum is only used for the brake band as in most battery machines. The only saw that I have seen that has a clutch is the Husqvarna T542i

Cheers for the feedback Steve. You're right it does take up too much space. I'll pass the info on and hopefully we can improve the look.

Im sure that 'everyone' has visited our site lately and noticed the big change to the layout. If for some crazy reason that you haven't please have a look and if anyone wants to give feedback, good or bad it would be very much appreciated. It was updated a couple of weeks go and we have found several issues, missing brands and categories etc which have been sorted or are in the process but its easy to miss things so if the Arbtalk community could cast their eyes over it it would help a lot. Skyland Equipment - Arborist & Rope Access Supplies SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Suppliers of arborist and rope access equipment. We supply chainsaws, PPE, climbing ropes, harnesses, carabiners from Petzl, Stihl, Husqvarna and more. Thanks for looking.

Remove the circlip and washer holding the clutch drum in place and check that nothing has gotten under there jamming things up. Depending on which type of bar you have check the nose sprocket runs freely and that the chain will move around the bar without any resistance.

As previously suggested clean out the gearbox and re grease, check that the blades aren't sticking or binding i.e. build up of resin or bent teeth catching on each other. Check that the bearings in the gearbox are OK I've replaced quite a few as they can rust up. Also check underneath the washers that hold the blades together as you can get a build up of crap which restricts the movement of the blades. The gearbox needs to move really easily.

I would say yes. I get a lot more machines in for repair that have carb issues these days. Although, a lot of the machines are either stihl blowers which ive covered on another thread or machines that have haven't been used for approx 6 months. I think that a switch to super unleaded or whatever the equivalent is of E5 might be worth doing. Its not a massive increase in price of the daily costs but it could be worth it in the long run.

It seems that one of the lads my have allegedly dropped the saw in a canal and didnt tell anyone about it! Just for reference if you ever do the same as above, you may not have to drain the fuel depending on how long its been underwater but my advise is to drain the tank, put fresh fuel in and get it up and running ASAP. Pull the spark plug and pull the starter while the saw is upside down to expel any water, dry the plug and get the saw running. If you leave it for more than even a day you will probably get bearings and piston rings rusting up.

They do feel like that they weigh twice that of a 90cc saw and seem to drink 5 times the amount of fuel!

It sounds like the 881 is the machine for you. We had an old 066 which TBH pulled a 36 inch bar good enough for us. Ive used an 084 up a tree a couple of times and it was too much for me tbh and that was only when subbing, I would have used the 066 on my jobs but im not a big guy (5foot 7) Ive never used a 661 but all the feedback I get is that they are really good, any chance that yours isnt performing that well? The 500i seems to be the saw of the moment, always positive feedback.

If you are going to use the saw for milling then get the MS881. If its for cross cutting timber then from my experience and that of others most of the time the 120cc machines sit in the shed. They come out on the big timber jobs only, the 90cc machines see much more use.

Blowers use a lot of battery power so whatever you buy get a good capacity battery or two and a fast charger. Its worth getting the S series of batteries as some of the more powerful machines require that battery to run properly. The kombi machines are really good as the motor is away from the cutting equipment so its doesnt suffer from vibrations etc. They will be more of a drain on the battery but they will last longer.

Laburnum is a really nice wood. I made a nice knife handle from it a long time ago, black and gold coloured. Unfortunately it has long since disappeared.

Bar sizes and the interpretation of what a bar size is is bollocks to say the least. Its a unit of measure, it cant be that difficult to give an accurate description. Saw body to the end of the bar tip =X give quoting a new bar and chain to account for wear.

Check the clutch needle bearing, they are prone to fail. If you catch it early then its not too bad. If you don't then its new crankshaft time!

£40 for a top handle saw if we put shipping aside! Im not expecting much tbh but you neve know so some comparison feedback would be good. Ive seen plenty of clone saws that OK will do a job but they are utter garbage when compared to a proper machine.