Mark_Skyland

Ive had a few 211's with the same issue. Its always been carb related and its always been new carb time. I have one in the workshop that if the customer doesn't come and collect it soon its get sold on, its probably been here for over 12 months!

If you remove all the wires going to the coil and you're sure that the HT lead isn't shorting out and you have no spark at the plug then its usually the coil that needs replacing.

Carb issues that I see everyday are either, pump diaphragm with pinholes, this is the thin black plastic piece under the cover that is usually held in by one large screw in the centre of the cover. Blocked strainers or more often than not dodgy one way valves/valve/check valve. The accelerator pump is also prone to fail on a lot of the C1Q carbs. If gaskets and diaphragms don't sort it then IMO just replace the carb. Using a cheap Chinese copy can be hit and miss, Ive seen enough of them that I dont bother working on a machine if its had one fitted as you can just waste so much of your time trying to sort it out. If its a pro saw then just pay the money and buy genuine.

Not sure about the carb being non essential. I know that they changed the low and high screws but im fairly sure that they changed or sorted out a carb problem as the older machines did have a carb issue that is rectified by swapping it out.

Sorted this out last week. I replaced the clutch as it was looking a bit worn. I'm thinking that the drum was worn out due to leaving it at high idle with the brake on for extended periods of time although that would usually destroy the sprocket cover.

TBH im not sure but you are probably correct. Maybe a worn clutch and a previously replaced drum. I will check out the clutch before I reassemble the saw but IIRC it didn't look badly worn but I may have over looked it. There was a lot of grumbling, huffing and cursing going on at the time.

Plenty of good advice above. I would replace the fuel lines and jubilee clips and go from there as it sounds like the fuel is running back into the tank over time. If that doesn't work then its diesel pump recon time IMO.

A customer brought a bit of a battered 291 in a couple of weeks ago with an issue. I had a chance to look at it this week, I think he's had his moneys worth out of the clutch drum to say the least. It was a bit of a job to get he drum off as it had ripped to bits and was well and truly jammed up in the cashing and the brake band. This was the state of it. The big problem was getting the clutch off, the drum had taken the end of the worm wheel spring so tit had to come off. I usually just use an impact wrench to whizz clutches off but his time it was having none of it. I tried penetrating fluid which didn't help then tried the old piston stop and big socket bar and that didn't move it so I tried a windy gun and still nothing! The only options I thought about where to cut it off with a grinder or give it some heat. These machines are just made of plastic, plastic pump, plastic casing etc. I gave the heat a go to save the clutch but not loads of heat and it actually worked, usually you have to heat stuff up to cherry red to get them to move but I think the oil from the day before may have helped. I still had to wind the air gun up but it did pop off first spin. Not got it back together yet as we didn't have the worm wheel in stock but it should be up and running next week. If I come accross this issue again I think I will tap one of the mechanics up in the next unit for their snap on wrench.

You need to check if its damaged. Its a bit of a complicated setup but IIRC you need to follow the wiring from the motor back to where it goes into the tube. From the tube it curls around the articled part and its the bit after that where the issue is.

The issues I've seen with the battery hedge trimmers is with the wiring loom where it moves from the pole to the head. It runs too close to moving parts and isn't shielded. It could be that if its got wet and shorted out as the other components should stand up to a bit of water.

Probably did! £20 labour soon disappears once you take the machine in, tag it up write out the quote and phone the customer, usually several times, never mind repairing the thing. Hopefully it will help someone in the future if they come accross the same issue and this thread.

If you block the fuel inlet to the carb, just put your thumb over it and create a vacuum on the primer side, put some fuel pipe on it and suck you should not be able to draw air through, if you can you either have a hole in the pump gasket or usually a bad check valve.

As Stubby said it was user error rather than a manufacturing issue. The 395XP is a really good saw. I have a brand new one knocking about that has a cracked crankcase, I should really sell it on or fix it up. It will be the last of the 395's.

I was only joking. I charged £20, he's a good customer and I learned something.

The long winded version. Slackened off the chain so its hanging a lot and after a bit of messing about I could see that the chain was getting pinched at the top of the guide bar. I turned the bar and it did the same thing, the sprocket cover and guide plate (this thing in case people are wondering what it is Husqvarna 522 74 28-01 Chain Guide Plate SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Replacement chain guide plate for the Husqvarna chainsaws listed below. FITS HUSQVARNA CHAINSAW MODELS 545 MARK II, 545G MARK II, 550 XP MARK II, 550 XPG MARK II... In this photo you can see the cover was scored along the top probably due to a thrown chain. ) Although the surface didn't feel raised I gave it a bit of a tickle with the angle grinder and boom, job done. The amount of material that I removed was next to nothing but enough to cause an issue that I haven't came across before. BTW Im not going to tell the customer that I repaired the cover I'm going to just bang a new one on for the handsome sum of £92 quid. I hope he doesn't use Arbtalk!