Mark_Skyland

It seems that one of the lads my have allegedly dropped the saw in a canal and didnt tell anyone about it! Just for reference if you ever do the same as above, you may not have to drain the fuel depending on how long its been underwater but my advise is to drain the tank, put fresh fuel in and get it up and running ASAP. Pull the spark plug and pull the starter while the saw is upside down to expel any water, dry the plug and get the saw running. If you leave it for more than even a day you will probably get bearings and piston rings rusting up.

They do feel like that they weigh twice that of a 90cc saw and seem to drink 5 times the amount of fuel!

It sounds like the 881 is the machine for you. We had an old 066 which TBH pulled a 36 inch bar good enough for us. Ive used an 084 up a tree a couple of times and it was too much for me tbh and that was only when subbing, I would have used the 066 on my jobs but im not a big guy (5foot 7) Ive never used a 661 but all the feedback I get is that they are really good, any chance that yours isnt performing that well? The 500i seems to be the saw of the moment, always positive feedback.

If you are going to use the saw for milling then get the MS881. If its for cross cutting timber then from my experience and that of others most of the time the 120cc machines sit in the shed. They come out on the big timber jobs only, the 90cc machines see much more use.

Blowers use a lot of battery power so whatever you buy get a good capacity battery or two and a fast charger. Its worth getting the S series of batteries as some of the more powerful machines require that battery to run properly. The kombi machines are really good as the motor is away from the cutting equipment so its doesnt suffer from vibrations etc. They will be more of a drain on the battery but they will last longer.

Laburnum is a really nice wood. I made a nice knife handle from it a long time ago, black and gold coloured. Unfortunately it has long since disappeared.

Bar sizes and the interpretation of what a bar size is is bollocks to say the least. Its a unit of measure, it cant be that difficult to give an accurate description. Saw body to the end of the bar tip =X give quoting a new bar and chain to account for wear.

Check the clutch needle bearing, they are prone to fail. If you catch it early then its not too bad. If you don't then its new crankshaft time!

£40 for a top handle saw if we put shipping aside! Im not expecting much tbh but you neve know so some comparison feedback would be good. Ive seen plenty of clone saws that OK will do a job but they are utter garbage when compared to a proper machine.

Not on the 261, you get those on the 260. The stopper in the pic looks OK to me

Ive had a couple of customers wanting to pre purchase but im not going down that road again. Paying transaction fees then refunding and paying more fees when people get tired of waiting, no thanks.

This is a good one. Customer brought a 261 in a couple of weeks ago as it was running rough, it sounded and ran like an old ford orion diesel. I got around to looking at it yesterday, I couldn't get it to fire so i checked the fuel tank. This was what came out of it And this was what it looked like after an hour or so I was impressed that the saw did manage to fire and run on that mix. It didn't fire when I tried it a couple of weeks later as the water and fuel would have separated so I would have been trying to run it on water only. Tank clean, new fuel filter and its running fine.

Yeah, never do that ! That would surely end in tears. I suppose that I should say, use whatever method the manufacture recommends or visit your service dealer.

Ha, you could be correct there. I tried to order some 564XP saws and I couldnt! Ill speak to our rep and see if we can get a decent ETA.

I'll echo going by the oil manufactures recommendation. A good quality oil at 50:1.