Kraftinwood

Hi, I have turned in excess of 20 Monkey puzzle trees of various size. The 30 " diameter is not a problem and can turn much bigger but...................... it is doubtful whether any MP wood over 2 years is useable. It spalts up to about 2 years but very quickly then degrades and isnt good for anything.

Hi Rustins Danish oil is excellent, it states on the can that it is food safe 24hours after application. I use it all the time and it also takes a wood wax when dry albeit not on chopping boards of course.

I have an order to turn some large bowls in spalted Beech. I do have a small amount in the round and ready to turn but also need some larger say 500mm dia x min lengths of 500-600mm. Please contact me with details of where you are and cost if you have any stored (but not green please) of that diameter that has preferably started to spalt so as to avoid me waiting to long to use.

Hi thank you for your kind comments. The first one is Yew root ball, There were two but I havent started the 2nd one yet. It takes time to pressure wash it to get the soil and stone out from the roots, then it has to be cut back so that I can hoist it onto my VB lathe, I have attached a picture of the Yew root just prior to turning so you can see before and after. I have a 1 ton lifting crane which helps a lot with the big stuff. Re the 3rd picture yes it's an excellent piece of Laburnum root ball, what do you think of the monsters or are they fetus?. In answer to Slack ma girdle's question yes it is hollowed ~ a nice gallery piece as well that one.

Hi I havent logged on for as month or so as I have been busy. I thought that you may like to see some pictures of my recent work. If you are interested in size or wood type they are all listed on my website www.kraftinwood.com

Hi, it could but....................................there are hundreds of part time turners out there that would all love to try. If you believe you have enbough guaranteed work to keep you busy from 8am to 5pm Mon to Saturday and you have developed the skill and speed over many years then maybe. Work out how much you need an hour, your overheads including expendable items ~ tools, abrasive, oils etc, electricity, heat etc etc etc and dont forget the money you need to put aside to pay your tax and insurance!. There is a unfortunately a great difference between turning a few mushrooms and apples like all woodturners do at the beginning and proudly give them to all their relatives at Christmas. They may all say how good they are but realistically and after moving on to something a bit more advanced than such basic turning try selling your pieces in sufficient quantity to cover the above, make a profit and put food on the table you will probably find the answer to your question. If you are still convinced that your work is good enough to support you and yours join a local AWGB woodturning club and talk to a few of the professionals and they will also help guide you. Apologies if that is a bit abrupt but better you face up to the facts now rather than later, anyway good luck and your welcome to PM me if you have any questions ~ I need to get back to the workshop !!!.

Hi just to add to the above I have tried various oils and as Wisewood says nut oils are not a good idea. Danish oil once dried (after 24hours) is food safe, I use Ruskins. Despite the common belief that wood is self cleansing that is not strictly true, it is though believed to be better than glass or plastic cutting boards as even after scrubbing they still can have some nasty bacteria in the knife cuts. So does wood but if properly cleaned after each use it sounds the safest bet. The following link from the internet is worth reading if you have the time and confirms the above UC-Davis Food Safety Laboratory: Cutting Board Research

Not sure what I did there, you make a good point No I havent ever used one on a saw before but thats what happens when you think you'll start off correctly with a new saw, even if it never gets done again!!.

Hi Tommer, a good point

I recently bought a Husqvarna 365 24" chain saw from FR Jones & Sons . The grease gun was faulty and they replaced it the next day, excellent service and they were the cheapest deal I could find. Thank you all at FR Jones I certainly will recommend you.

Hi Gollum, yes exactly what I meant thanks, its good to see something new. Common then all you woodturners, lets all follow the example and why not add some 'new pictures'. Your work may not be up to the same standard as those above but you have to start somewhere and its all about learning for yourself. The best way to improve is to see what others can do, get some ideas maybe, ask questions but importantly practise, the more you turn the better you should get.

Hi I haven't been on the site for a while. I am a full time woodturner and have been busy finishing off some pieces for 3seperate gallery exhibitions I have booked in the Summer. I trust you will not mind me saying but I still see the same old pictures that have been there for months and keep getting reloaded !. I am sure it is time to add something new no matter how good or bad, it will certainly beat looking at the same thing over and over again. The attached picture was of a few of my turnings I took to a three day Craft Fair at Gaddesden Live Craft Fair last weekend in the Marquee of the Middlesex Woodturning Association Club where I am a member . So lets see some new pictures of your work guys, its good to see your 'latest work'. Alternatively if you want to start woodturning, are new or just want to improve and have any questions or difficulty with deep hollowing or threading or...whatever, or have questions on wood type etc etc then just ask, we all here to help and thats what turning is all about

Hi Matt, as Big Fell said above (thanks) Yes I am always interested in nice pieces dependant of course on how many trees I have in stock of course . I have sent you some calcs in a PM Regards Kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

Hi I am Robert Bishop ~ user name kraftinwood. I became a member in January and am a woodturner. I have been turning for about 9 years now and specialize in large bowls and hollow forms using mainly native woods but also Australian & American burr. When I began I started with a cheap import lathe and upgraded it twice before buying a VB36 lathe which can turn anything that can be mechanically hoisted on to it hence my 1 ton lifting crane and cutting tools 2 metres long !!. People often ask how they get started in wood turning, it takes a good many years to reach a standard where your work is good enough to become a professional woodturner. Do not let that put you off, enjoy your turning, most new turners will after a relatively short while be giving all their friends and relatives a bowl each for Christmas and Birthdays !!. To move on from that stage though and become proficient you must practise, practise & practise as its the only way to improve and be able to consistently produce Gallery quality work to an international competition standard. If you want to start woodturning as a hobby then you are best advised to seek some tuition to start with, there are many professional turners who will give lessons for a reasonable cost. You dont even have to buy any basic equipment that way but you probaly soon will once you've had a few lessons and get the bug. You guys also have a big advantage and that is access to the pick of timber that you cut down. Its true that wood takes a long time to properly dry especially air drying but that is all part of the learning process. Have fun and enjoy some turning. kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.. Attached Images

Hi if you are happy cutting up Monkey Puzzle wood for firewood then fine. I am biased as I am a craftsmen but personally find it sad when good wood is wasted, used properly it can last a lot longer than it ever would standing and believe burning it is outrageous. You will see Monley puzzle in the back row numbers 5,6, 8 & 12 from left to right. I note that you got more than £150 cutting up a tree for firewood but what I didnt say was that I also throw a bowl into the deal once the wood is dried and thats worth another £350 + on top of the £150 maximum for the tree. Perhaps your load of firewood was not then so good after all. Kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

Hi Wrightrees, not much of a response for your wood which is surprising !. I am definately interested in buying the three Yew trunks but just need to see how I could get them to me in High Wycombe Bucks. I will ask some of the guys that pick up Monkey puzzle trees for me if they are willing to collect for me and cost and get back to you asap Regards Kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

Hi the going rate for a large MP tree is about £150. The problem is your location and collection from North Wales. I have 3 trees in stock waiting for the black staining (spalting) to start which takes normally 8months to 2 years before it is at its best. I will ask a couple of guys I know for cost to collect and deliver to me at High Wycombe Bucks and get back to you asap. Regards Kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

Hi Tony-d Dean Lofthouse had a similar question on the 6th Feb so that may be worth looking at. Below also is a link to a good page to read, you will see traditionally there have been many woods used for blocks albeit I would normally use/suggest Beech. Interesting to see that a butcher kept his block for life hence the extra thick block which allows it to be re surfaced when worn. Also there is agood explanation re end grain or side grain. Butcher block - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Hope that is useful. Kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

Hi, if you have a portable saw mill or bigger or maybe know someone that has you can cut it into planks, store it with sticks between each plank to let the air through it. You should protect it from rain at the top and also out of direct sunlight. I t is best to seal the ends but normally you can cut a few inches off either end to get rid of any small checks when it is air dried. Generalising wood dries at the rate of an inch a year so if its a three inch plank then it will need about 3 years. You can store it in the round for as long as you like but it will never dry out properly until you cut into sections and end turn on a lathe. Leave inthe largest lengths you can, I see lots of people cut trees into 4 or 6" pieces, the pith, heartwood and sap wood all then dry at different rates and it is only good for firewood. An old tip is to cut it into sections twice its diameter. I turn most of my wood green, but you can store each section on its end (and end seal or wax top and bottom and stand on sticks or a pallet to keep off the ground) until you can blank it that is put on the lathe and take down to say double the wall thickness that you eventually need. Make sure that the sides and bottom are uniformed i.e. the same thickness or you will have some pieces drying quicker than others and there a good chance it will crack. You must control the drying so straight away put in a large paper sack (potato sack), there are other ways you can store in shavings, I even know people that have buried their blanks in the ground !! not sure if it works though. Some turners boil their wood succesfully but it is all initially trial and error and after a few years you will hardly loose anything once you have perfected the drying process. Specifically re your burr you will see that you need to make up your mind what to do with it either plank it or section up and store it depending whether you will use it or if you will sell it, as above I always turn burr green so do bear that in mind if you are selling then nows a good a time as any and you let others worry about the drying process. Hope that helps any questions please ask. Kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

Hi I buy all reasonable size monkey puzzle trees within reasonable distance and subject to storage (I have 3 at present) if you are want to sell all the tree please send size and pictures if possible. Despite what some say ***? the going rate in our real world isnt anywhere near what they would have you believe, I have never paid more than £150 for a complete tree (and I have bought many) albeit I usully throw in a bowl. It is 18months to 2 years before the wood is useable i.e. staining apppears which gives it character as wel as the whorls. Please let me know details thanks kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

Hi Yeti, to answer your question and after reading the above you will already know that end grain boards are preferable for chopping boards. If you are a woodworker then I need not bore you with the bit about using dry timber, but must emphasize that if its green its no good. I bandsaw my wood and then fix it to a face plate, alternatively you could glue on a tenon and then put it into the chuck, or put it between centres and turn your own tenon. Once turned you can sand with abrasives starting at say 180 grit to say 400grit which is enough for a choppingboard, if its Beech or sycamore there's no real need to apply a finish just leave it. If you do apply finish then remember it must be food safe, * CARE * no walnut oil or the like as you may end up killing someone or making them very ill if they have a nut allergy Danish oil after it has dried ( max normally 24 hours) is food safe albeit I still wouldn't apply a finish. You mention Oak that's fine but I wouldnt use it, my advice is to stick with Beech, Sycamore or Maple they are a lot more hygienic and will stand up to washing and not crack up like Oak may. Now if you havent got a lathe thats a problem but you could cut the discs (end grain) with a bandsaw and sand with a machine, the result will not be as good as making on a lathe but give it a try. Hope that helps Kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.

Hi Logarithm Sorry to say but Yew or otherwise its not worth very much at all to a wood turner unless they have a big fire place. To be of any use for turning it needs to be cut where possible in larger lengths. if left in the round it then needs end sealing, storing properly preferably out of the rain and direct sun (which will do even more damage than the rain) alternatively you can plank it and properly store as above it with sticks between to let the air through it etc etc. Cut in short pieces as it is now by the time its dried it will no doubt split right through as the pith dries at a different rate than the rest of the wood. If it was in longer lengths then you may get away with just end checks which you can cut off before selling. Large diameter wood will never dry out completely if left in the round and even after 2-3 years stored on end will still soak you when you start to turn them. !!! The answer is to turn it green and control the drying if not it ends up firewood anyway. You could as suggested above by someone put it on e-bay and sell it to some budding unsuspecting wood turner who doesn't know better but my advice is sell it for burning and not for turning. Kraftinwood Woodturning Large Bowls and Hollow Forms, Australian and Native Burrs.