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Matthew Storrs

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Everything posted by Matthew Storrs

  1. Not at all, Hi have a h14 and its fine if you can line the landy up with the line of pull, but if its pulling off angle(for example self recovery) there is nothing you can do to make it spool on neatly hence leading to flat spots on wire rope where it has criscrossed. Plus when it bunches up on one end of the drum it can jam itself up between the bumper and the druum - especially if you have full rope capacity on the drum.
  2. I have a tracked TW150 with 1800hrs- still chips as good as new despite the usual bearing issues its a fantastic machine- however i know of a local contractor with a jensen with half the hours its performance is shocking compared to my TW. I don't disagree that Jensen make a far supirior machine to the rather outdated TW but simply that any machine which isn't maintained properly is a nogo. If I was looking at a new machine it would probably be a jensen 530 but Id also be considering the TP machines too- Id only ever bother with tracked myself- opens up avenues to so many more jobs.
  3. Sytnthetic reels on better as it doesn't matter if it crisscrosses over on the drum whereas steel rope will flatten and kink etc. I think it depends on what kind of tree work you do, if its going to be mostly winching trees over and self recovery then synthetic is fine as long as you use an extension lenght of rope to prevent the tree falling on top of the winch rope. If your using it to skid timber about it won't last 2 minutes, steel rope all the way for that.
  4. cheers for replys, Elfinwood- Im guessing your Zetor has a specific hydraulic brake outlet? Is it possible to just plug the trailer into the standard aux hydrulics and just use the lever in the cab to apply the brakes? or is this a bit naughty?! My tractor only has the standard 2 hydraulic outlets so I don't think it has the option for running hydraulic braked trailers
  5. thats a point i hadn't thought of. there is a lot of snatching and no give in the tractor obviously so the stress would be transfered starigt to the tow hitch and drawbar.
  6. hmm maybe I could put just the digger on the trailer then get a cradle welded to the weight frame on the front of the tractor for the postknocker.......
  7. Yes you have a good point reference handling etc, and I too would have dual over tri (less tyres to replace for one thing!) but it was more a case of if tri axles can handle more weight without overloading the axles/springs etc then they may be the only option.
  8. Ha quite the opposite- 30year old Zetor but I believe as it has the air comressor and the coupling next to the trailer lights it can be rigged for air brakes (although havn't fully explored this avenue). As the tractor is only 70hp 4wd I don't think Id want to tow much more then 5ton behind it so I wouldn't benfit from a large trailer if Ifor types are able to fullfill my needs.
  9. This is what I mean, I have a dual axle 3.5t ifor already and I don't feel the dual axles ever struggle so I feel a triaxle should be capable of carrying more weight. I know some of it comes down to helping weight distribution particularly on longer trailers, if so why do they offer triaxles on their dedicated plant trailers where weight distribution isn't often an issue.
  10. why did it cause problems? It will be mainly road use and the odd going across field. The trouble is I want to keep weight down a bit and a purpose built lowloader style trailer designed for tractors is going to be overkill for just carrying a 3ton digger, plus as i said i don't have hydraulic brakes on the tractor so wouldn't want to rely on just the tractor stopping the whole train, hence my theory behind using Ifor. agricultural trailers and equipment, jpm trailers, jpm engineering I quite like the look of these trailers as you have the ability to add mesh sides which could come in handy. they look capable of carrying upto 4 ton with the tri axles But the GW of 3500kg must be there for a reason???
  11. am about to purchase a 2.8 ton digger with post knocker approx 350kg, the trailer weighs 720kg so gross weight is 3870kg. Overweight I know, it will be drawn by a 70hp tractor. My dilemma is tractor does not have hydraulic trailer brakes (it has air brake adaptabilitty but costs £££ for the trailer. So Ifors with overun brakes seem the obvious choice apart from the weight issue. I suppose the question is does a tri axle trailer have the capacity to hold more then the GW that ifor state, I recently saw an Ifor with a 5 ton tractor on it:sneaky2: and that seemed to be coping allright, but i wondered what Ifor based their gross weights on with regards to triaxle trailers. because surely the weight is dividded 3ways so you wouldn't be overloadding like you would on dual axles. I know it may be frowned upon but it will only be towed by a tractor, so strain on the towing vehicle is minimal compared with a Landyetc. Anyone else have this problem or do you just overload and crack on with it.
  12. Cool- well jealous of thats setup. You must get on very well and have the same outlook to co-operate a buisness? Fair play and hope it works out well.
  13. well- woke up to a smattering of snow this morning- I reckon its gonna be a cold one this year, Whilst I hate the drizzly misty murkiness which made up most of summer 2012 Im due to do alot of stock fencing this winter so frozen ground is a regular PITA, Plus up here on Dartmoor when it snows it brings some proper tossers up from Plymouth and the surrounding area who have no regard for the countryside
  14. I particularly like the half assed bolt on the right which doesn't even look like its been done up right- what a complete joke. give me a pencil sharpener anyday-100% more longevity and reliability!
  15. I hope this doesn't spread. as for people saying more work when DED took hold, loads of people jumped on the bandwagon (as they do) and probably many of those are still going today but when the Ash trees are all down then what, the industry would be even more swamped then it is now. Think long term- this disease isn't going to benefit anyone.
  16. In a way woodchippers are over priced when you compare them to other bits of machinery, i mean they are pretty simple machines really, they still make a tree surgeon money, but i would still say they are overpriced. Im guessing this is a) because they are made in the likes of Britain/Germany/USA and b) there isn't the high demand for them (in comparison to cars for example which are remarkably cheap for what they are). I wouldn't sniff at one of those chinese chippers let alone use one- and that goes for most chinese machinery i can think of. saftey would be my main concern. these are not machines to gamble with- if they break they could cause serious injurys. spare parts and reliabilty would also be a concern.
  17. I have a fixed arm grapple for my mini- came from Digbits. They arn't ideal for picking up several bits of cordwood as the grapple is really big enough, they are however very good for picking up single largish sticks and also very good at picking up piles of brash (particularly blackthorn!) I can pick up a 2ft diameter stem with mine, i welded large 1 inch bolts onto the tips of the tines so that it really bites into the timber otherwise larger pieces have a habit of slipping out. Defianetly reccomended on any machine bigger then 1.5t. Very quick at sorting brash from logs/ loading bonfires with piles of brash. I had to sort out a HUGE windblown beech and I sorted it in a couple of hours whereas it would have taken 2men at least two days to sort if the machine wasn't there. Make sure the hinge pins which hold the two halves of the grapple together are greasable, some maufactureres don't do this.
  18. just a thought... You can pick up a 2nd hand superwinch H14 with bumper and all the fittings for around £700-£800. I did this at the start of the year (pto version) I would prefer a 2nd hand H14 then a new electric setup. The down side is they are heavier and take longer to fit, but 100% reliable, can pull all day long, and no electrical conponents to overheat/get wet etc. Does anyone know of anyone using an H14 with synthetic rope? as this would lower the overall weight quite a lot. I find cheap electric ones a bit of a gimick.
  19. I think it depends on the style abit- westcountry hedgelaying can be done alot quicker then midlands. I aim for £5 a meter for a pretty overgown hedge- less if its hazel more if its thorn.
  20. Trust insurance do my tractor £165 for the year- thats 3rd party only tho. works out cheaper to run my tractor then the landy at the mo
  21. I brought my tracked chipper 2nd hand and I have had to spend about £2000 on it since getting it a few years ago mostly maintence stuff anyway bearings, belts etc. Now Iv got a good reliable machine which has eneded up about half the price of a new machine. So to sumarise, if you know a thing or two about chippers then theres nowt wrong with a 2nd hand machine but you may have spend a bit to get it up to scratch so allow for that in your budget!
  22. I do lots of hedgelaying every year, mostly as part of stewardship schemes set by Natural england, mine is all Devon style which is mostly on top of a bank, usually cast up the bank with a digger and get the job of stockproof fencing once iv finished the hedge. this is my favourite kind of work, but to make decent money you have to be quick and not complain about thorns or slippery banks in the pouring rain.
  23. I know what you mean, But in general any saw I have with me when doing fencing/coutryside work gets a hard time, starting of by rattling around in the pickup with the spades and mattocks then stopping /starting whilst shaping up struts, cut a load of scrub then left on the ground whilst I clear it with the machine. (alway a chance of being run over too!) I know I could take more care of it, but thats exactly why I wanted a cheapie- so I don't have to! I'l try and see how much it'll cost to repair my 254xp, failing that, il demote my 357xp and that'll give me a nice excuse to buy a sparkling 550xp to replace it:thumbup1:
  24. I do have an old 254xp under the bench which could be pressed into service, but will probably need a bit spent on it- mainly carb issues. just though it might be worth getting a new hassle free saw, it will be used quite a bit in practise so I don't want some gutless plasticky rubbish. Just hate seeing my decent saws lying around in the mud when fencing.
  25. I already have a fleet of professional huskys for proper tree work, but when im doing stock fencing digger work etc I don't like these saws getting mixed up with digging tools etc so i just want a cheapish £300 saw that Is reliable but I don't mind it being bashed around a bit- keep in the tractor just to cut the odd limb of when im fencing/ditching etc. Any reccomendation? don't want to spend more then £300 otherwise that defeats the purpose but also don't want a 'hobby' saw either. doesn't have to be husky, what about jonsered/solo etc?

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