spudulike

Nice job, always good to bring these old tools back to life. So much more rewarding than getting some old bit of that that wont last. The history is what I find interesting, not that you see much of it but every axe tells a story.

Stihl do decent Ash axe handles that don't cost a fortune if anyone is interested in this work. Doing my Brades 1.5lb head at the moment, have stripped the handle of the paint and logo and am shaping the end to receive the head over the weekend.

Nice job.....but I think those gloves have seen better days!!

Those 630s are decent machines, well built and solid construction. Should last you a fair while.

I was asked to show some pics of what I am currently messing about with in the workshop on another thread so rather than de-railing it, I have started another thread to honour the great Industry that was Great Britain and the axes and gardening tools that came from our foundry's typically Sheffield and Cannock. Feel free to post up your projects, horror stories, loves and hates etc.

So, here are the beasties...I own a Fiskars X27 for splitting, these are all smaller hatchet type axes

 From the left, a ball pein hammer converted in to an axe - the rubber strapping is to get a good grip on what is a hammer handle - I picked this up from East Ruston Gardens. The next is a small kindling axe/knife stamped "Made in Sheffield", The next is a Kent design hatchet 15" handle which will be original as it was my Grandfathers so probably 100 years + Stamped Riley and Sons. Next is one I have just aquired, an Eagle Edge Tool Company axe, around 1 3/4lb, the handle has a serious twist but feels fine in use. The next is a Gilpin Kent Style with a head of around 2.5LB and handle of 18". The two on the right have had the handles removed and re-wedged, I fitted a small metal cross wedge on the Eagle one as one was fitted already and wanted a clean job. 

Close ups below: -

This last one is work in progress, a Brades head stamped 1918....possibly from WW1. I have an Ash Stihl handle on its way so I will strip, stain and fit it when it arrives.

So the Stihl AT software isn't quite as good as the OBD2 port on your car then

 I took a look at the IPL again and the generator was for the heated handles - I thought it strange as the Stihl AT machines I have worked on have used two magnets on the flywheel to generate the AT power.

Lets hope it is the coil, I hate it when you have to resort to swapping out parts like you have had to, I much prefer a charred fooked up part that is definitely causing the issue.

Another thought....I once had a 372 XPT that had been round 3 dealers with a farting mid range which was a bit on an off.

Anyway....the long and short was that the generator behind the flywheel had come loose. I haven't had a MS462 in so am working blind but the IPLs look like it has a generator fitted. Worth checking out the tightness and wiring. 

Have you checked the AT wiring is OK and also given it a stretch when checking? The MS201CM has a habit of fracturing or wearing the wiring under the top handle front AV mount and that can give similar bad running.

I haven't used the Stihl AT software but is the machine setting the high and low fuel settings correctly? Not sure if you can see this info but sometimes the tests on Husqvarnas CST test with no faults found but the fuel settings can often be interesting.

A good result...I think....... logic takes over with things like this and stupidity of others can often be the route cause. 

Hope it works out.

The 254 is another fine machine. The first one I ported was scary as to how the pick up changed...again light and powerful....great saws.

Possibly a bit of gunk in the gauze strainer, the pump diaphragm may be holed on the sealing flaps or the air filter may be dirty...don't be fooled by it "Looking" clean, the orange ones especially as the open areas block easily and look clean but they are not.

Mantis tillers are great for small allotments and gardens but wild flowers generally don't need nice soil and lots of things other plants demand. Lightly dig and rake is probably enough.

Scatter the seeds once the earth warms up after the frosts have finished, March/April will get it going. You could get some of them going in small compost filled pots. 

I am doing a similar bed in my garden and many of the plants I listed will flower from spring to autumn. Cosmos, Salvia, hotlips, marigolds, nasturtiums are all very bee friendly and have amazing flowering periods. It is great to see bees on a flower in November - that was the salvias last year. Any flower that has an open middle is good for the bees. A mini buddleia would be good if you want a shrub.

Open

3 hours ago, Donnie said:

Here's a wee photo. It was grass before. I just want something that looks decent (I don't plan on high traffic) tbh. If youve any photos of the wildflower that'd be grNd

Options: -

!) Till it over, replant with grass seed and will be good in three months.

2) As above and use some wild flower mix - one cut in Autumn

3) Till and plant Nasturtiums, Cosmos, Foxglove, Delphiniums, Canterbury bells, Marigolds, Salvias, lavender and watch the bees love you for your cottage garden....oh, don't forget the crocus and daffs for early colour.

4) Plant half of it as a veggie garden...runner beans, courgettes and onions are easy and worthwhile.

5) Block pave it and be destined to end up in hell!!!! 

I have a 346XP, same as Stubbys and it always brings a smile to the face. Light, good AV, revs like a wasp on steroids and picks up like nothing else and is soooooo good to use.

I reckon the 3 series Huskys were some of the best saws out there and some of the best to take modification that takes them to the next level. 

eBay US....

Jonsered Throttle Lever. Part 501 77 33-01. Acquired from a closed dealership.

WWW.EBAY.COM

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Jonsered Throttle Lever. Part 501 77 33-01.

Available in the US....

jonsered 625, 630, 670 chainsaw throttle safety lever 501 77 33-01 new oem (h-000)

CHAINSAWR.COM

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Throttle safety lever Part # 501-773301 / 501773301 new old stock part from closed out dealer Fits Jonsereds 625, 630, 670

The part you need is 501 77 33-01

I believe it is still available, I am sure ADW will confirm one way or another - I know it says "out of stock" but L&S will probably be able to get it in from Husqvarna: -

Lock Lever for Husqvarna Machines - OEM No. 501 77 33 01 | L&S Engineers

WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK

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Lock Lever for Husqvarna Machines Genuine Husqvarna Spare Part OEM Number - 501 77 33 01

If the saw needs all of those parts, take it from me, if this is a project to make money, it ain't gonna happen with a 181 unless you picked it up for free. 

eBay is your best chance of parts but take my advice and stick to higher value pro saws.

Break it for parts or sell it as a non runner.

Keep it going, at least the pics now don't turn your stomach. A damn good reminder as to what can happen after leaving your home for an average days work.

Looking a lot better and am sure you still have a long way to go but keep positive and well done for posting about your accident.

On 17/01/2024 at 18:20, Husqvarna King said:

Are you still doing work on saws Spud?

The very odd one if dropped off and generally for firewood....a morning a month is a busy one nowadays.

Just to add, if you look at the 026, ensure that the top end is genuine Stihl and not an aftermarket cylinder. A genuine Stihl cylinder will have "Stihl", possibly "Mahle" and various part numbers near the base of the cylinder. There will be a small flat near the top centre of the cylinder close to the spark plug and it will have numbers stamped on it....this is the way I tell a cylinder is genuine....an aftermarket one will often look a bit clean on a well used machine.

The 026 is an old saw superseded by the MS260 and now the MS261 but if the 026 is little used and looking pretty fresh, it may be a good one and have seen a few out there.

Excellent, I have had coils give a few sparks when first pulled and then nothing. Glad it is sorted and another machine lives rather than being deposited in landfill.

I don't like the look of all those streaks on the piston and if the decomp valve is OUT and the saw pretty much falls to earth when held by the starter then it is lacking a significant amount of compression.

The damage doesn't look like a heat seize so more likely, one of the main bearings has slowly failed....ouch.

Pull the cylinder off and take a closer look....if the compression is Way Down...as Elvis sang.

Are you sure that the piston hasn't nipped up? Does the engine compression feel normal on the recoil handle? It is worth removing the muffler first and taking a look at the piston through the exhaust port.

Other than that, does the carb prime OK with the primer bulb? If you pull the saw over say, 20 times on full choke, is the plug still dry? If you turn the engine upside down with the plug out, if you pull the saw over (upside down) does fuel run out?

If the saw is still dry, you may have a serious air leak in the engine but it is still worth checking out the gauze strainer and pump diaphragm.

22 hours ago, carlos said:

well i tried it this evening and it started and ran perfectly!

but ive not had many things fix themselves so i shall try your ideas if i need too.

thanks carl

I would have the alcohol and nibbles then try it in your own garden rather than looking a right tit in front of a customer. You may just have cleared a bit of shyte or freed up a check valve - a good old run up will prove if it is sorted or not - hopefully all is good.

Not the Oregano again, best used on pizzas or pasta dishes and should be kept away from chainsaws.