spudulike

The MS460 poly flywheel has a steel boss so is damn strong and yours looks fine as does the key. It is very possible that you are feeling the play between the rings and the piston and it is quite normal. Pop the muffler off and see if you can see the movement as you rotate the flywheel.

It is likely the ignition unit has taken a clout and damaged it so the saw is sparking with the wrong timing but difficult to tell from afar. It is also possible it has a carb issue - did you check under the metering diaphragm cover.

Oh.....a little caveat is that when an engine stops when running at full tilt then it can often be a complete failure on the HT side, especially if the saw still has decent compression after failure. You could try removing the kill wire off the coil....just to make sure there isn't an intermittent earthing issue.

They may be worth £30- 40 each tile if they have a manufacturer on them - seen them on bargain hunt and can go for a decent sum.

I am no expert but worth looking and learning before you make your table.

The flywheel moving thing - are you saying that the flywheel has a little play on the key when loose? This is entirely normal but if it is loose when it is torqued down, this is very wrong.

The ticking of the flywheel - if the flywheel has clouted the ignition module then it may have done it some damage. I have known flywheel magnets loose their magnetism by being clouted but if you have a healthy spark, it would look more likely that the spark is possibly happening at the wrong time.

An engine, in basic terms, needs fuel spark and compression - if only it was this simple!! The spark needs to happen at the correct time, the fuel needs to be metered and the compression - on a MS460 - typically 160-170psi.....they are usually pretty healthy on compression.

It is very difficult to see if the machine is sparking at the correct time without using a strobe and you need a running engine to do that.

It is possible something in the carb has failed and it isn't metering the fuel correctly but would expect the saw to flood or not be pulling fuel up correctly but perhaps check the carb over. MS460s do tend to build up a lot of shyte above the metering diaphragm, not sure why but they just do so check this out as well.

They are worth the sum that someone will pay for them. 

Someone said it is amazing what someone on eBay will pay for non working saws......this sort of tells you something: -

The best option is always to sell as single units to anyone on the UK mainland on eBay

The next best option is to sell all three to anyone on the UK mainland

The next best is buyer to collect a single saw

The next best is buyer to collect all three

Gumtree - bit of a minefield and is one up from a car boot....give you a quid for it guv!!

I have sold and purchased saws and other goods on eBay. I have done a bit here and there so personally, I would list each saw to end on Sunday evening, start the bids at £1 and let the good times roll.

If you don't do this...and it is entirely up to you Mark, you will get less money and probably considerably less but they are your saws and your choice!

Easter is coming - damn good time to get the saws up and most people have absolutely no knowledge of the value of things they own......I sold a 171 owned by a family member to a neighbour - he thought £30-40 was fair....I got £120 as the money was going to charity and it was a later model in clean condition, the neighbour was over the moon (after an afternoons tuition) and the family member was somewhat surprised.....everyone is happy.

Some of those hand painted tiles are both valuable and very collectable...in case you didn't know. 

You can probably drill the original wedge out if it is wood. Make a new one out of hard wood - Oak is good and solid and use a bit of wood glue around the eye (Hole) in the axe head, on the axe head and wedge as it fills cavities and ensures a nice tight bond that will hold it all together well.

I know, I wouldn't normally but sometimes....... My money was on a damaged clutch centre but we will never know...annoying and as my old mum used to say...always say THANK YOU!! 

Go Careful with longer screws, they have the habit of going in to areas they shouldn't and causing issues. Personally I would use a slightly larger diameter screw of the same or similar length.

Seems about right - perhaps it span off and did him in

Just now, GarethM said:

Don't think you've been allowed to use colour since the 50s.

 

Harry potter used "dark arts"

TBH, I really don't know anymore and I have about as much a clue on this subject as on Quantum Mechanics.

Just now, GarethM said:

Whilst that's true metal does expand, but so does the bar. And it's a black art to get it right especially on a one nut 251.

You can't call it a "Black Art", it is now an Art of Colour unless it has changed again.

I do hate loose ends, It is a bit like watching 7 episodes of an Agatha Christie series and missing the last episode where all is revealed. Most unsatisfactory.

You're welcome.

1 hour ago, Botty Cough said:

Found this in my new shed today. I'll have an oil up tomorrow and see if I can identify it.

😬

Been here a while now and started getting into the outbuildings a bit ...

I think the stamp says Brades Co Solid Steel. It is a "Kent" style head, the handle has a little worm in it and it looks like the handle could do with removing and a new wedge fitted. The top of the axe edge looks to have been dinged a bit then sharpened as it has lost its shape a bit and the back of the axe has been battered in its past but....nice little project to get it back in to shape. You could hang it the other way round as the eye is probably the same dimension through its complete length but check.

You either have a damaged clutch boss or the clutch is simply unwinding on the spool down and then wearing through the side cover because it isn't meshed correctly. Some say this is impossible but have viewed it first hand 

Can you do a clearer image of the clutch boss/centre - I had similar years ago and one very small part of this assembly was broken.

Getting over the clutch spinning off - do it up well with a decent tool, you could add a little thread lock but go easy and/or rev the knackers off it with a bar and chain on it and slam on the chain break on a few times or cut a big lump of wood but don't rev the engine and let it spool down immediately after reassembling otherwise it will just happen again.

This may make them empty their bowels: -

Alarm Mine

WWW.HENRYKRANK.COM

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The Alarm Mine acts as a warning signal against unwanted intruders. 1 x Alarm Mine unit. 1 x Trip Wire 3 metres (10 feet). 2 x Wood Screws. 1 x Safety Pin with release. 1 x Instruction...

That looks like a large cordyline, we had one just like it and it flowered in a very similar way to that - it was around 20 years old and...they do get that big.

The leaves are damn tough/fibrous and used to jam the mower and would think they may cause havoc to a chipper unless someone else knows different. 

As Stubby said, I also heard that palm sap can attack aluminium casings.

You could try putting up the issues on here and see where that leads but TBH, selling them one at a time after a good clean up will probably get you a reasonable amount on eBay but make sure they are sold as "Spare or Repair" otherwise you will get a load of trouble from the purchasers. 

Don't sell them as a job lot, it is a good way to get the least money possible. Getting the best money means selling each saw, boxing each one and sending them out to the UK....personally I wouldn't insure and the courier cost should be £8-12 - if it is any more than that, someone is ripping you off. 

I usually open up the hole that you can't get to and also do a single "louvre" muffler mod. You basically cut a slot in to the part most people drill a hole in to do the muffler mod.....and burn a hole in the exhaust cover ...the flat part just below the bit you can't remove. Use a diamond disc cutter on a dremel/rotary tool and then open the slot to a  louvre with a flat screwdriver so it points downwards.

The mods I do follow on from the original design intent in having the exhaust heading downwards out of the machine rather than sideways burning the cover and your leg as in the drill method.

Both mods work but one is "Engineered", the other is just simple and not particularly good.

Just fit a new part (No7), they are only a few quid. The pre mentioned methods are OK for a fix for a week until the part arrives. 

Switch Shaft for Stihl MS 261, MS 261 C Chainsaw - 1141 182 0920 | L&S Engineers

WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK

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Switch Shaft Genuine Stihl Part OEM No. 1141 182 0920 Suitble for the Following Application's: MS 261, MS 261 C

Right, the two pairings on this saw are : -

1) Flywheel 1124 400 1210 (Polymer flywheel) and Coil 1124 400 1301

2) Flywheel 1124 400 1201 (Solid Metal Flywheel) Coil 1124 400 1302

It would seem like you have No 2 as above so you should have the 1302 coil and from you saying that it has two mounting screws, it would sound like it is the correct coil. Worth checking the part codes though.

Firstly, learn what an Ohm is and how basic resistance works. The beeper on the average multimeter is measuring what electricians call continuity...that is pretty much zero to around 50 ohms. What you are measuring is the spur connection in your HT cap to the coil laminates or even the kill wire and that will be through the HT wire and then through a load of very thin copper wire windings so expect a reading of 1000 Ohms or more. This reading will need to be measured on the correct setting on your multimeter and if you get a reading, it means your spur and HT lead are correctly joined to the coil.

I once had a MS461 with no spark and did this measurement and got an open circuit reading so took the HT lead off the coil and it was badly corroded. I cleaned this up and bingo, I got a spark and a running machine saving the owner £££. It happens.

In your case, if the flywheel is good and the coil is good, you should get a spark especially if you have disconnected the kill circuit so the only components are the flywheel and the coil (gapped correctly) ....there is still the question of when the spark happens (ignition timing) but if the flywheel key is OK and the flywheel keyway is OK, it should be bob on.

23 hours ago, arboriculturist said:

Excellent ! I will change the old for a new nylon filter.   This 12 year old saw has a single piece muffler with no top cover. Yes very good learning curve.

So it doesn't have a small torx screw on the top like below? Every MS150 I have ever had in has had one. 

5 hours ago, Rac man said:

Yeah, but the trouser legs are the perfect length against his shoes.

The engine is a bit strange in the fact the crankcase is split in to two halves but has a plastic cradle a bit like a clam shell type engine.

The bearings and seals are a push fit in to the cases. 

It will be a good learning curve and it will be worth opening up the outlet hole under that muffler top cover. You will get a good increase especially if you go for the nylon air filter as well. A real simple mod, cheap and effective.