spudulike

Is that the fella or the saw🤔

Care needed but you can helicoil them without stripping the engine but care with where the piston is, grease and stuffing the cylinder is all part of it as is using the compressor airline with the exhaust port only slightly open is all important.

I have a Stovax Stockton 8 and noticed that the fire wouldn't shut down if you shut all the dampers and put it down to the stove meeting the latest regs.

Not being able to gain full control of the stove bugged me so I set about working out where the air was getting in and traced it to the top damper so I made a plate to reduce the air entering the front of the top damper and got the stove working as I wanted it. I can now shut down the stove and subdued the burn as you should be able to do.

I always punched the thing out with a sharp awl. Line it up on one end and give the awl a tap with a hammer, it should pop out.

That leaking fuel is either the carb needle valve leaking ( most likely) or a severely worn piston skirt on the inlet side causing blowby. 

£1200....I think I will start up the business again and come out of retirement.

11 hours ago, adw said:

Christ here we are again running the saw with no bar and chain, I strongly advise you do not do that, on the over run they can, and will spin off, once away from the drum you have two shoes one spring and a spider flying through the air at speed.

Yes  clean the bar delivery holes, next you need to remove the clutch and check the oil pump gear behind, then remove the oil pick up pipe and filter and clean, has this been running with bio oil?

I thought someone said that couldn't happen....tell that to someone that has seen clutch drums disappear down their drive at great velocity.

Did you de-stress the crank bearings after screwing the crankcases together? Unlikely to stop the engine running completely but usually missed by many.

The rest of it, could be anything and depends on your experience in rebuilding engines and fuel systems.

Highly unlikely unless it was near full power back in the day and now has some trick delrin parts and a decent higher rated mainspring.

What is it...Meteor, Mercury or Airsporter? 

Would that be the YPVS👍

I usually find dynamite is very effective.

Saps power, not great! 

The last load of logs I got were in payment for servicing a couple of saws and yes, I did send 20% of the logs to HMRC.....yet to get a response🤔

I was told that birds like sparrowhawks eat the preys brain first as it is full of natural goodness so instant energy boost for them if a bigger enemy swings by.

That magnolia looks like one I had at my previous house. The thing just puts on loads of growth each year and needs thinning out often to keep it at a manageable size.

It isn't sniffy at when or how much in my experience.

Interesting way of doing business. Don't you do the work, invoice then supply documents after payment or am I a dinosaur in a modern world of shysters🤔

660s are pretty bullet proof. There is no history listed...has the machine been ported recently or has it been running for years and just started playing up?

It could be seals gone but that takes time, a split inlet manifold or an impulse line come off?

If ported recrntly, did the fella vac and pressure check the saw...I always did.

Does it have one of those big bore kits on it? If so, it will be leaking from the base gasket.

It is strange that it takes time to play up.

Is the carb OEM?

Neighbours can be complete knob ends and boundary issues will be bread and butter for solicitors however, they seem to advise stepping away nowadays.

Perhaps get a land surveyor to go through the deeds and advise where the boundary should be. Bear in mind that the answer may not be what you want although Adverse Possession is always possible if you have had 12 years access to it and your neighbour has not.

All this will need hostilities to cease and for the neighbour to listen....in my experience, good luck with that.

Looks a bit beech like but am thinking Alder.

Known as Adverse Possession but you would need to claim the land legally and get the deeds changed.

It is made more difficult if the other landowner disputes the ownership.

On the rebuild kit, you have a Walbro WT so you need a Walbro WT rebuild kit. Take the carb apart and check out the diaphragms against an image of the WT kit and they should be the same. The number generally indicates slight differences to jets and design etc and a generic WT kit should work.

Probably down to the strato technology using less fuel so less oil that gives the 346 & 357 bearings and easier ride.

Love my 346 and 357...the latter breaks your arm even with the decomp valve in...not very standard and the compression is a bit saucy👍

The fibre vent is probably available from L&S. In my experience, the fibre ones can leak, especially if the rubber mushroom is old. The plastic breather on the insert ( the brass bit is a drift to knock in the insert union) do seal the tank well as they have an one way valve. The correct handle will need to be fitted as it has a cavity to allow for the height of the breather. The fibre insert will work with any handle. 

On the 020, the early ones came with a push in white fibre vent, the rubber mushroom sealing the tank, the fibre one acting as a filter. The assembly you show is the later breather with a one way valve which was replaced on the later MS200T models with a two way fuel pipe and tank breather hose.

Yours must be an early model with the remains of a fibre filter.

All I got was an image but recognized the model number. These electric trimmers don't too much thick grease or gummed up blades, too much load on ramp up.